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worth the risk driving?!

I've been roaming through the info on this website and have been getting all kinds of good information – HOWEVER, information on driving has absolutely freaked me out. I'm starting to wonder about our rental and the areas we're going. We are renting car in Florence, driving to Lucca/Pisa the Cinque Terra, then Cortona (Assisi and Siena) and then return car to Florence. Four days total. http://www.bella-toscana.com/traffic_violations_italy.htm They have ZTL – limited traffic zones and are notorious for tickets (that get sent months later and can be charged to credit card from rental place), AND almost all the areas we are driving have them: Florence Sienna Pisa Lucca Assisi You have to get exemption each day you drive for two hours to get to your hotel. Have not idea how/where. God knows how we'd get to the sites and where to park then! They get you for parking, speeding and driving in these zones – all by camera. Let's remember we can't read the signs.

Posted by
10344 posts

For the reasons given in your original post, some experienced travelers to Italy use this rule of thumb, for Italy: Take the train where there is regular train service to your itinerary destinations. and if trains don't go there, rent a car. There are only a few places in Italy not regularly served by rail: Tuscany countryside (the country, not Florence or Pisa); Sicily; Italian mountains (Dolomites, Alps), and a few other areas.

Posted by
2297 posts

"Let's remember we can't read the signs" ................................................................................ If that's the case you definitely have no business driving a car in Europe. Renting a car in Europe means you familiarize yourself with signage and rules of the road before you go. But fortunately, there is lots of information available online to do just that. And fortunately, the European traffic signs are designed in a way that they can be understood without speaking the language of the particular country. Anything that's in the local language might be good information but is not crucial to be safe. Those dreaded ZTL signs have loads of additional information that is hard to "read" in a split second but as long as you recognize that red circle with a white centre you should know to stay away from this street.

Posted by
2297 posts

But I also agree with Kent's second post: as long as you're visiting places with good train connection use the train. We stayed in several places that were not accessible by public transit and had to rent a car. For us it was worth it the added stress of driving Italian streets - and it IS more stressful than in any other European country we've ever driven (mostly Western and Central Europe).

Posted by
10344 posts

For driving trips in Italy, a biggie can be nailing down overnight parking where you're going to be sleeping, before you leave. It's not a problem in a rural location like an agriturismo, they have space for parking lots, just like here. But for overnights in a more built-up location, if you have to rent a car, it probably will be more fun to book lodging that provides overnight parking.

Posted by
2876 posts

"Most experienced Italy travelers minimize car rental to where trains don't go.".............Just to give a counterpoint, we've been on several trips to every corner of Italy from Bellagio to Palermo (and including every destination on your list) & we've always done it by car. There can be headaches of course, but there can also be headaches with trains. We just prefer the freedom a car gives you to go (and stop) wherever you want, at your own pace. The only train I've ever used in Italy is the Circumvesuviana between Sorrento & Naples.>>>The majority of people on the Helpline are "train" people from what I've seen, so I thought someone ought to speak up for the "car" people.

Posted by
81 posts

I agree with Tom. There certainly are advantages to taking trains, especially into large centres where parking is at a premium and we have done that too. I personally like the freedom that having your own car affords you.

Posted by
204 posts

I think a previous poster (Kent?) got it right that Americans are wedded to their cars because that is what we do here. After the first trip you learn not to rent a car. Trains are so much better. They go to the heart of the city, they are faster and safer and much more confortable and generally cost less. Europe is much more compact and the culture definately favors the train.

Posted by
10344 posts

I agree with Charles. My first trip to Italy I had the typical American mindset: "I don't feel comfortable with trains, I'll do what I do here, rent a car." Well, I learned the hard way: that ZTL's in Florence aren't fun (actually, my first trip was way before ZTL's but driving there was still totally unnecessary) and overnight parking in Florence or the Cinque Terre was way harder than I thought it was going to be.

Posted by
2876 posts

My first post was not intended to be critical of those who prefer the train, but just to give another point of view.

Posted by
32212 posts

JUDY, I've just glanced over the replies here so hopefully no one has mentioned this, but you'll also require the compulsory International Driver's Permit to drive in Italy. This must be used with your home D.L., and failure to produce an IDP if requested can result in fines ON THE SPOT. My position on your question is the same as Kent and the others. Trains are a MUCH quicker and more efficient travel method than travelling by car and don't have the inherent problems of expensive CDW, parking, possibility of vandalism or ZTL issues. Especially in the areas you'll travelling, road will be narrow and winding in some parts (C.T) so your speeds will be slower. *Could you clarify - you're planning to visit ALL OF THOSE LOCATIONS in a time frame of four days??? If that's the case, well planned train routes would be much quicker and you'd lose less of your short travel time in transit from one location to another. Even with a GPS and a good Map, there's a good possibility of "getting lost", so that will add to your travel time. One other possibility to consider would be a "combination" approach using train and car. Some of your locations are easy to reach by train (Lucca, Pisa, CT) while others are a bit more "challenging" (Cortona, Assisi, Siena). You could (for example) rent a car in La Spezia when you leave the C.T., visit Cortona, Assisi and Siena (in that order) and then return the car in Siena. From there it's a short Bus ride back to Florence and no worries about the infamous Florence ZTL zones (although you'll have to watch for those in other towns as well). Happy travels!

Posted by
1449 posts

Ken [INVALID] 4 days, 7 or 8 destinations; that's why Judy's going to bring a nice camera. So when she's home she can look and say "see, we WERE in X!" ;-)

Posted by
7737 posts

We rented a car once, for about three days out of the many weeks we've spent in Italy. We were staying in an agriturismo and that was the only way to get there. It did allow us to explore the nearby small towns, and I was glad we had it for those few days, but I much prefer trains and buses. Much more relaxing and much less hassle than renting a car. We're going back in May for two weeks and have decided on more time against renting a car at all.

Posted by
12 posts

Thanks everybody for your input. I'm a total rookie, never been to Europe and my sister and I are taking a once in a life-time trip to celebrate our milestone birthdays (two days apart) 55 and 60 years old. I'd rather take the train wherever possible; originally renting a car in a smaller 'wherever' town and returning to a different town was a problem. Instead of picking up car in Florence (I'm sold) I'm switching to train to Lucca (I hope). We're staying there 2 nights to see Pisa and CT. Will there be buses to get from hotel to sights there? Then we have hotel resv at Cortona for two nights because it was in the middle of Sienna and Assisi, that we want to see. Train/bus/car rental? Then we're heading to Sorrento by train, but now from where? We were originally going to return rental in Florence. I've never blogged before and so very glad I did. Thank you.

Posted by
32212 posts

Judy, as you've "never been to Europe" before, I'd highly recommend pre-reading Europe Through The Back Door before you go. Pay special attention to the "Rail Skills" chapter as it will help you navigate the trains in Italy. I'd also highly recommend packing the Italy 2010 Guidebook along with you, as I've found that the book is a valuable source of reference during trips. Thanks for the clarification on your travel plans. I'll have a closer look at that and if I have any further suggestions, I'll post another note. Given the fact that you've only got four days, I REALLY feel it will be necessary to drop at least one of your stops, and preferably two. Even if it's feasible, visiting six or seven locations in four days is going to be "challenging". When are you taking this trip? BTW, I have a birthday coming up shortly also. Cheers!

Posted by
787 posts

I'm more in the "use a rental car" camp - where it makes sense to do so. We always plan our trips so our time in big cities is at the beginning and the end of the trip, because we don't need a rental car while we're there. Then we'll pick up a rental car somewhere along the way for areas where it's easier to get to by car. For example, on our last trip to Italy (first trip for our daughter, so we just had to visit the "big 3"): flew into Venice, then trained to Florence. Trained to Bologna (a city we love). From there, we picked up a rental car for a week driving through Le Marche and nearby areas. We ended our trip in Rome, where we dropped off the rental car on the outskirts. Your current itinerary might be difficult to arrange for not having cars in cities, but the only one that I'd be worried about is Florence. Most (all?) cities have signs for parking. As mentioned above, you look (or rather, have the navigator, not the driver) for the big P signs as you enter the city. Especially for Assisi, you will see multiple parking signs and car parks before you get to the walls of the city. If you're worried about passing a ZTL sign by mistake, just park at the first parking sign you see, and walk a little further. The signs aren't that difficult to figure out - there's pictographs (is that the word?). I think most guide books have examples of the signs.

Posted by
2829 posts

European signaling is focused on pictograms (images), not written instructions. Instructions like "no red turn" or "merge ahead" are displayed in standardized graphic signs you can understand pretty easily.

Posted by
501 posts

In seven trips to Italy, we have rented a car six times. We base in Cortona and take the train if possible and drive to places where we can't take the train. You will be fine with a car. We have picked up a car before in Florence, just make sure you pick it up on the outskirts. We have driven to Rome, Orvieto, Milan, the Cinque Terre, Cortona, Assisi, Siena, Montalcino, Montepulciano, etc. All you have to do is stay out of the town centers. Most towns, like Cortona, the Cinque Terre towns (at least Vernazza), and Assisi, have parking outside of the towns and you can either walk in or bus in depending upon the town. In my experience the ZTL zones are marked, but the driver is usually too distracted to notice so passengers have to help watch out for them. I spotted them during our trip to Milan. We turned around, parked the car in a garage on the outskirts that was listed in Rick Steves book. we took the Metro into town and got off very near our hotel. When it was time to leave, we just retraced our steps back to the parking garage. easy peasy.

Posted by
492 posts

As long as you understand the ZTL zones and how to avoid them, then go for it. I would not rent a car while staying in Florence unless we were staying outside of their ZTL. We did rent a car when we were based in Cortona and loved having it. I agree with the general rule that if the places you are going to have decent bus/train connections, use those, if not, consider a car rental. From Florence to Lucca and Pisa we would use the train or bus options, to Siena we would use the bus. Avoiding the speed camera issue is not difficult, the locals all know where the cameras are and all slow down, just follow them. Avoiding the ZTL can be avoided in the small towns, most of the main parking is outside of them anyway, know which parking lot you want and go straight there.

Posted by
1446 posts

I concur with Kent. My philosophy is to take the train when available but in the case of Tuscany or the Dolomites, trains aren't feasible so I would rent a car. We rented a car last year in Tuscany for 4 days & we had a great experience driving to various towns however I would not want to drive in/near larger cities. I would definitely suggest a GPS unit though if you do drive. I think it shaped our experience. The only thing I disliked about using the trains was schlepping our luggage onto & off of the trains. That got a bit old. Have a great trip.