Winter Travel in Italy

You might look into Orvieto, an easy one hour train ride north of Rome, almost across the Umbrian border into Tuscany. Not sure what it would be like in late December, but here are some of my photos and video of Orvieto in May 2011, in case you're interested.

Orvieto is lovely, but when I was there in mid-Jan, many restaurants, shops, etc, were closed. It worked out fine for me, since my interest was the cathedral and I could enjoy that at leisure. I'd think wandering would still be pleasant, even with closures. Assisi, since it's a pilgrimage center, seemed more "open" off season.

We were in Rome last Dec 22-31 and traveling in Italy the entire month of December. (We moved here last May). The 24th - 26th take some planning, but there's plenty to do. The 24th we spent the morning at the Borghese, shopped, had lunch, rested up, went to church at 6:30PM, then dinner at 8:30, followed by a nice walk to see more lights. The city is so decked out at Christmas! A very nice day. A very Roman thing to do is have a fish-based multi course feast on the 24th. The 25th we cooked a nice American breakfast, then took a walk through the ghetto where it was pretty much business as usual. Lots of people were out and about . The ghetto was a great choice for dinner, too, but make a reservation because a lot of Italians dine out for Christmas! There are two precipi (nativity scene) museums open on Christmas Day so we visited one in early evening, taking in the lights at Piazza Venezia as well. The 26th we took a self-guided walking tour up the Gianicolo to Villa Doria Pamphilj, then toured the Palatine and Forum in the afternoon. We were exhausted! The point is, with planning, there is plenty to do even if some sites aren't open.

Part II Just walking (check out the book "24 Great Walks in Rome" for ideas ) is entertainment. As the holidays approach there will be lists of restaurants open, special exhibits, etc. One blog to watch is ParlaFood.com Katie always lists great ideas especially for dining. I also like RomeRevealed.com for ideas and current events. Oh, and on the 26th, Via Fori Imperiali is closed to traffic and is thronged with Romans enjoying the passagiata. Quite the scene. As to accommodations, we rented an apartment near Campo dei Fiori and it was perfect! Great to have a small kitchen, washer, and space to hang out.

Forgot to mention as to your extra week: Sorrento and environs is very popular with Italians after Christmas. They head down on the 26th and stay thru New Years. If that interests you, get accommodations arranged as soon as possible. We found decent weather there in mid-December, although there are some closures.