Which is a nicer town to stay in July- Santa Margarita Ligure, Forte De Marmi, Lucca, or Volterra?

The answer would depend on your preferences and experience. I would stay in Santa Margarita for its atmosphere, for the sea and the nearby hiking, for the somewhat cooler July temps, and because its different from a Tuscan experience. Forte dei Marmi is simply not an interesting place if you've ever been to a shopping mall. Volterra is well worth visiting, but presumably you will have already gotten a feel for Tuscany. Lucca is a wonderful place, but its core is now heavily visited and its likely to be quite hot in July.
If you choose SML, you'll need accommodation with a parking option.

I haven't visited any of the places you listed except Lucca. Lucca was great, also love Siena.

We loved Santa Margherita-few tourists, great food, beautiful views

Not real impressed with Lucca and it’s very touristy and I would imagine hot and crowded July

Santa Margherita Ligure. Hands down.

Are those the only choices? You have a car so you can venture beyond where 95% of American fans of Rick Steves here have visited (primarily because on the rail line)

Since you are there in July I would stay somewhere near the coast, which will likely be cooler than the interior, which you will have visited during your Pienza stay.

The choices are endless, these are some options starting from the closest to Lajatico. But it also depends on which direction you are headed later.

Castiglioncello. A nice and pretty coastal town near Livorno. Very quiet environment although in July there will be people. Sandy and rocky beaches are both available. The white sands of Rosignano are nearby.
Forte dei Marmi. I spent my youth here. Very vibrant and full of nightlife (restaurants and cafes galore). Probably not too quiet in July. Large sand beaches. Upscale environment (high end shopping in the city center if you are interested)
Campiglia Marittima or Suvereto. Two quaint medieval villages on top of hills near the coast. Nearby on the beach proper there is San Vincenzo (beach town similar to Forte dei Marmi, but not as upscale) and the Gulf of Baratti, which is more secluded with very clear waters. If you are interested in Etruscan civilization, Populonia is also there just above the gulf of Baratti.
A bit more to the south, is the Maremma region with the Argentario Peninsula, arguably the best part of the Tuscan coast. Castiglion Della Pescaia, Talamone (Maremma park) Porto Santo Stefano, Porto Ercole (both on Monte Argentario peninsula) are all good. From Porto Santo Stefano you could also visit the Giglio Island by ferry (50 min ferry ride).

Liguria is more mountainous and their beaches are rocky. There are several spots that are nice. In addition to the Cinque Terre, there is Lerici, Portovenere. Further west my favorite are Moneglia (very quaint and not too busy) and Sestri Levante.

I’m not a fan of Santa Margherita Ligure. It’s a bigger busy town especially in July (I’ve been there only in July and August a few times, when I lived in Italy). Not really car friendly, like most of towns on the Ligurian coast, and I don’t care for their beaches, but nearby there is Portofino and San Fruttuoso that are nice to visit (not much of a beach either p, however). Camogli is another choice in the area.

Do some research on the options above, maybe look at the images you find online and see what you like. As I said choices are endless, but in your shoes I would consider my choice based on where you are going next. If you are headed to Milan, then towns in Liguria or Northern Tuscan coasts (basically the coast from Forte dei Marmi to Camogli) are better choices.

But if you are headed to Rome afterwards, then I would head to the Tuscan coast and stay in one of the above Tuscan towns (from Castiglioncello down to Monte Argentario peninsula)

Thank you so much guys,

Those are great ideas, yes I think the Coast sounds perfect 😍
We are doing a few other crazy things, that i could be open to changing feel free to critic and pull it apart.
A little about us is, we rarely get to travel, and are coming from Australia so trying to do a lot in 35 days.

Itinerary so far
Arrive Early June in Rome 2 days to recover from 24 hr flight! Eat some delicious pasta, walk through Ancient Rome and take it all in.
1. 4days in Amalfi staying in Praiano ( feel free to critic!) I don’t how ill go with over touristic areas
2. Train to Scilla 2 nights
2. 5 days in Sicily ( Taormina, could be open to a different location)
3. Fly to Paris 5 days in Paris ( or can skip Paris and head to the south)
4. Express Train to South of France 8 days around Provence ( my husband is seeing family there )
5. Flying to Ireland to cruise for 10 days with my father
6. Fly back for 10 days Tuscany to finish our trip with a bit of the Tuscan / Liguria Coast ☺️
6. Fly out from Rome.

Would like to add the Bernini express but doesn’t seem to be fitting in… 😂
Would love any thoughts on am I completely nuts and is this too much travel…..
Or is it do able.
We love to experience the Italian culture, food and enjoy the views and surrounds,

*Ps. Roberto

Moneglia looks absolutely breathtaking!!!
Thank you for so many wonderful insights into this..

*

I have a headache just to picture all the places you are visiting in a month, flying back and forth to places from one side of Europe to the other, and many of which are not even close to each other.

1. Praiano is nice, but it has no dock (jetty for people down under) therefore not great to hop on ferries to places like Capri (island). Positano or Amalfi are better choices.
2. Taormina is kind of pricey. But I noticed you like beaches, so see if you can find a place in Giardini Naxos just down the hill from Taormina and on the beach. Ortigia island at Siracusa is also a popular spot in Sicily. A car in the island might be useful.
3. and 4. Visiting Paris or not is up to you, however Provence is far from Paris. Do you plan to take a train down then rent a car in Provence? You will need a car in Provence.
4. Flying from Ireland to Florence may be a challenge. Consider flying to Pisa.
5. if you are going to Rome, maybe it would make better sense visiting the southern Tuscan coast of Maremma (like Argentario Peninsula) instead of Liguria?

Moneglia is nice and a happy medium between Santa Margherita/Portofino and the Cinque Terre, both of which will be heavily crowded in July. I used to go to Moneglia a lot during my youth, and stayed there a few nights. At the time it wasn't too crowded even in July. The Cinque Terre are very nice and great if you are into bush walks. Trains are the best way to get there.

If you rent cars in Europe don't forget that in the Continent we drive on the right side of the road. Don't get distracted and drive on the opposite side, mate!

Thanks Roberto 🤣

Now I have a headache too…
What would you do differently?
The thing is I get mesmerised by all the Italian views & Landscapes. But i do the love the hidden gems and whiter more authentic experiences.
A few notes-
We have to be in south of France for family towards end of June & head to Ireland.
1st-12th July ( fly back to Italy 12th July)
Have to finish in Tuscany for concert on 22 nd July

Thanks so much for your help 🙏