Hi, I was in Salerno last September, and here’s the excerpt from my trip report:
Salerno – 2 nights: When I shared our experience of Salerno with my husband during a FaceTime call, he remarked, “You know, you’re having the Back Door experience that Rick Steves intended when he began his tours.” I do like to gravitate towards the lesser traveled routes, so Salerno was more appealing to me than Sorrento. Also, I really wanted to see Paestum after finding it during on-line research. I highly recommend Casa Santangelo (reserved thru Booking.com), the former summer home of marquis Santangelo from Naples. I booked the family suite, so we could stretch out a bit at this location. Our two-room suite was perfect for our daughter to see the grand elegant past (my room is on their website - spectacular original gold walls & painted ceiling of pre-eruption Pompeii!) Our host commented that we chose wisely to be able to experience “authentic South Italy”, not just “tourist South Italy” on the Amalfi Coast. We walked down to the boardwalk and caught the end of a windsurfing competition in the bay, meandered along the old town lanes and dressed up for the Saturday night passeggiata that didn’t disappoint! Our last evening, we had reservations at the Osteria dei Mercanti restaurant in the old center and enjoyed both the food and the family running the restaurant. The owner told us a couple of times to be sure to go up to Ravello.
Day-trip to Paestum: An easy 30-minute train ride from Salerno, and we were walking the well-marked lane to the Greek ruins of Paestum. What an amazing experience – first seeing these 500 BC temples in such great shape, and then being able to walk up to them & even climb up inside the Neptune Temple! They are mammoth in size and some of the best preserved in the world. As you would expect by now, we arrived when they were opening and enjoyed a leisurely lunch afterwards of the local Buffalo mozzarella topping a fresh salad and an appetizer charcuterie of Buffalo blue cheese, etc. – delicious!