Where to stay in Cinque Terra, Italy

La Toretta in Manarola is well worth an anniversay celebration. We found Manarola much less "touristy" than the RS-favored Vernazza (and just as pretty.)

Thanks, I'll check it out!

The whole CT is pretty touristy now. Much more so than what I expected. We stayed in Riomaggiore and loved the town but plan on staying in Vernazza the next visit. Monterrosso is probably the most touristy and Corniglia the least but there's also not a whole lot in Corniglia. I think in May, no matter where you stay, you're going to have a big tourist crowd. We were there at the beginning of June and I heard more English speaking people there than anywhere else I've been in Italy.

I sadly agree with Ron. in 1999 it was quaint and kinda discovered. Now it is discovered and touristy. Could not walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola without having to stop every 100 to 200 ft because of crush of people.
Other trails less crowded, but towns crowded in Sept 2010

What were you especially looking forward to about the CT? Perhaps others on this board could make some suggestions of places that might fit the bill. I happen to be very fond of Sorrento which IMHO has found the right way to do "touristy". The CT are just so tiny that they really do get overrun.

Regarding the walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola: Do it late, after an aperitivo at Bar a Vini A Piede which is at the start of the trail in Riomaggiore. It's a nice little stroll, and you can have dinner in Manarola, then take the train back to wherever you choose to lay your head. You can even do it after dark. It's lighted and we encountered no tourists after dark, only some locals who seemed to be "commuting" on foot.

It is a nice walk after dark with the low lighting and the waves on the rocks below. Bring a lock to leave on the railing also.

We enjoyed 3 nights at Manuel's in Monterossa with a spectacular view over the town and the bay. It was quaint and not touristy. Take a look at our travel blog if you want to see some pictures. http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foothills_bears/1/1184344699/tpod.html

Would late Sept/early Oct or early May be a less crowded time to go? Also, would the weather be at either of these times be better (ie, cool enough to do without A/C)?

" Would late Sept/early Oct or early May be a less crowded time to go? Also, would the weather be at either of these times be better (ie, cool enough to do without A/C)?" Yes and yes. Early October is a great time to see the CT area without the huge summer crowds. Try www.elisabettacarro.it in Vernazza

So sorry to hear that the area has gotten so busy, even in May. We've been told how romantic the area is, so that's why we decided to go there for our anniversary. We'll be on a tour the week before that ends in Florence so thought a jaunt over to CT would be perfect. I could still use some concrete suggestions on specific hotels. Thanks again
Camille

just realized there were some replies with specific hotels mentioned; will check them out and thanks!
Camille

Vernazza is the best town for sitting next to the water at night and eating outdoors. It is the only town with a true harbor.

@Laura We were in CT in mid-September last year and it was still packed. It will be less crowded than July or August, but don't expect it to be empty. As others have mentioned, all of CT is pretty touristy these days. I had an 8 year gap between trips there and was amazed at how touristy it is now. That said, it's still wonderful and my favorite place in Italy. @Camille In terms of where to stay, it will really depend on what you're looking for. I love Vernazza but there's not a lot going on there (part of why I love it), so some people get bored there. Monterossa (sp?) is bigger and has more amenities, but therefore a little more touristy.
I hear really good things about Portovenerre (again, sp?) which is just south of CT (and accessible by the boat that goes between all the towns) - it might be a nice place to consider staying.

Yes, daytrip to Vernazza, but stay in Manarola or Riomaggiore. Everyone goes to Vernazza, and the town is quite lively until late in the evening. But Riomaggiore is still a 'real town'. After all the daytrippers leave, the residents come out in the the early evening for a kind of passagiatta. They visit with one another and the children play in the community square by the harbor. Yes, all of the CT is now on everyone's radar, Rick's blue books can be seen everywhere, and beautiful Vernazza is where everyone wants to stay. But Riomaggiore is also very beautiful. Another big plus is there are many rooms there with terraces. Vernazza has very few. I can't properly describe the feeling of sitting on your terrace looking onto the town or onto the sea with an espresso in the morning or a glass of wine as the sun goes down. Talk to the folks at Edi's Rooms, and ask for a terrace.

I hadn't considered Riomaggiore but will check it out. Did send out some emails to hotels in Monterrosso, Manarola and Vernazza and the places I really liked were booked for our dates. Bummmer! So still looking. Have more to look at now, so thanks to all!