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Where to stay Amalfi Coast?

Hi,
First time Europe travelers.
We are starting in Rome then heading to the Amalfi Coast for 5 days.
RS seems to suggest Sorrento as a home base. I found a hotel in Positano (Hotel Miramare) that seems inviting though.

Would you suggest planting ourselves in Sorrento, Naples, or Positano? (We'll be doing day trips to the other locations from our base hotel.)

Thanks in advance :)

Posted by
16895 posts

Positano is not on the Circumvesuviana train line that serves Sorrento-Pompeii-Herculaneum-Naples, but it's just a half-hour bus ride each way to/from Sorrento to connect with that train.

Posted by
32405 posts

paulina,

Given the fact that you want to do "day trips to other locations", Sorrento would absolutely be the best choice (IMO) as it has good transportation connections. From there it will be easy to take day trips to.....

  • Pompeii and / or Herculaneum (easy trip on the Circumvesuviana train)
  • Capri (easy boat trip, about one hour each way as I recall)
  • Positano (easy Bus trip so this could be done as a day trip)
  • Mt. Vesuvius (I can't remember the details for getting there from Sorrento, but I'm sure one of the others can provide that)
  • Naples (about an hour via the Circumvesuviana, which would be a good stop to not only sample Pizza in the place where it was invented but also see the Archeological Museum as that ties in with Pompeii).

There are lots of good restaurants in Sorrento and it's also a beautiful city (and more "level" than Positano, which is either uphill or downhill. As this is your first trip to Europe, there's going to be a bit of a "learning curve", especially with transportation. There are some potentially expensive "caveats" to be aware of when using trains or other public transit in Italy. Also, watch your luggage, especially on the Circumvesuviana. Hopefully you're planning on using Money Belts.

Happy travels!

Posted by
16240 posts

Although Sorrento is logistically better positioned, as Ken said, because of the Circumvesuviana train station, however Sorrento can't compare with Positano if you are looking for a romantic spot. Also Sorrento is not on the Amalfi Coast.

Since you are in your honeymoon, being in the ultimate romantic spot should take precedence over the proximity to the rather "dirty" and graffiti laden commuter trains of the Circumvesuviana.

Positano is also closer to the best beaches in the area. As a matter of fact Positano has great beaches. From Positano you can visit Capri by boat just as easily as from anywhere else in the area.

To visit Pompeii it's not that much farther than Sorrento. Just take the bus to Sorrento (40 min.) and from there the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii. Staying in Sorrento would save you only the bus ride.

I understand that Positano, being perched on a steep hillside, presents challenges to some. But I presume you and your bridegroom are not too old, so unless you have some physical disability the steepness of the town should not stop you from enjoying the gem of the Amalfi Coast.

Posted by
795 posts

and if you're going to stay in Positano, don't feel locked in to all the circumvesuviana travel, if you can, taking a ferry from Salerno to Positano is most relaxing :)

Posted by
15799 posts

Positano is not on the Circumvesuviana train line that serves Sorrento-Pompeii-Herculaneum-Naples, but it's just a half-hour bus ride each way to/from Sorrento to connect with that train.

That doesn't take into account how often the bus runs (I've no idea) or the train (roughly every half hour, though in off-season it can be every hour).

It depends on where you want to take day trips to.

Posted by
11613 posts

Positano right now is packed with tourists (I was there yesterday).

Buses run between Amalfi and Sorrento about every 30 minutes.

I am staying in Praiano, not crowded, the hotel has sea views from every room. True for many places here.

Happy honeymooning!

Posted by
8084 posts

Currently at hotel Ambasciatori in Sorrento. Positano is beautiful but unsuitable for day-tripping. Ken's reply is excellent. Have you read Ricks descriptions of full busses and early departures? And trying to catch the last ferry of the day? BTW, the Circumvesuviana is useful but jammed and a moving slice of Naples! The other riders are very nice, however.

Posted by
16240 posts

Paulina is on her honeymoon.

She needs to stay in a romantic place with a gorgeous view like Positano, not in a place convenient for day trips.

She won't have time for day trips. She and the bridegroom will hardly have time to get out of their hotel room ;)

Besides Positano is more convenient for the trips to Amalfi, Ravello and the rest of the Amalfi Coast.

Posted by
32405 posts

@Roberto,

The OP provided information on taking "day trips to other locations" but I didn't see any reference at all to a honeymoon so my reply was based on the information provided in this Thread.

Hopefully the OP will add another reply here, as it would be helpful to know exactly where they're planning to take day trips to. I agree, it's also very easy to reach Capri from Positano (I've made that trip).

Posted by
11 posts

Ken, Roberto, James, and everyone -

Wow. You are all so informed and helpful.
I think Roberto picked up on the honeymoon angle in another thread. But, yes, it's our honeymoon.

To answer some questions:

We're both fit, so the hilly area of Positano probably won't be an issue.
This is the 'relaxing' part of the honeymoon - the first five days will be in Rome. Relaxing, but a little more city-like.
On the coast ideally we would like to take at least two day trips from our main location on the coast.
- Definitely Pompeii.
- Definitely Amalfi or Capri.

From what you've all said it sounds like we need to decide between Sorrento - easy access to other locations and Positano: Unique, on the coast, romantic.

I think we'll go with Positano (and James I will check out Villa Cocles) since we plan to 'venture out' on only 2 day trips. We'll just have to have an airtight transportation strategy right?

Thanks again. I've been reading RS advice and travel tips. But sometimes it's better to have 'real' input from fellow (and more experienced) travelers.

I will say, the only thing that's a little scary to me right now is dealing with deposits on hotels etc with people who seem to speak little English. I have this irrational (?) fear of some great miscommunication where we show up and there's no room reserved or it's in a dark cellar somewhere :)

Posted by
8084 posts

Because your suggested hotel is on Trip Advisor, I wouldn't worry about language. We've had less trouble with that on each succeeding trip to Italy. This year, 2014, it has barely come up.

We did find Positano cramped. And the beaches ( my doctors won't swim in the Mediterranean) are small, pebbly and unattractive - not to mention crowded. This is not like the Caribbean, money aside. Even in May, Positano was elbow-to-elbow. The breezes were better in Sorrento, too. Please read Rick on the busses and ferries. For example, he says (to Sorrento sleepers ... ) Go to Positano in the morning so you're getting on the last bus in Amalfi in the afternoon. It won't even stop in Positano because it is FULL.

Edit: It's a matter of opinion, but we found the (bayfront hotel ... view and balcony extra $$) Sorrento view of Capri and Vesuvius pretty romantic. But I conceded that Positano has its own beauty. I just don't care for jammed passages two sets of shoulders wide! I agree that October might make a big difference. Check that everything is still open and bring a sweater.

Posted by
11 posts

So, Tim - I need to research the area a bit more. I've heard that it's not terribly crowded in mid October though. The pebbly beaches don't sound like sunbathing beaches that's for sure :)

James - You've made great points - research and know what type of traveler you are. We enjoy (me especially) the finer things when traveling (unless we are 'camping' or 'hiking'). So, I'll tailor my research in that direction.

Angela hit the nail on the head with our expectations of this trip. We've made a conscious decision to see this as a 'first' instead of an 'only' trip. We don't want to rush around and spend our honeymoon catching trains and buses. We love the idea of getting a 'feel' for one spot and then moving on to another. Hence - Rome 5 days and Positano (or?) for 5 days. I know we'll have to come back several times to see even Venice and Tuscany...which were originally on our agenda but we decided to do them next time.

Posted by
663 posts

On this website you can find links to all of Rick Steve's tv programs... Check out the one he has about the Amalfi coast, people are sunbathing on the pebbly beaches even in April when it was filmed. Also it gives a good idea about what all is available to do in the area, and may help you decide between Sorrento and Positano. I was just watching it this morning, and now hubby dear wishes he were traveling there with me this October!

Posted by
16240 posts

Mid october is not high season, therefore the beaches won't be crowded, unless it's a weekend with above average temperatures. Mid-October is kind of unpredictable in Italy, sometimes is down right fall weather with plenty of rain.

It is true that the beaches are pebbly, but that doesn't mean they are any less beautiful. The entire Sorrentina Peninsula is a rocky mountain with cliffs jutting down to the sea. Nevertheless, if the weather is good, you can still sunbathe like a lizard and the water is crystal clear.

Do a Google Image search by entering: "SPIAGGE POSITANO" and check them out for yourself.

Posted by
3648 posts

James has made many good points. We, also, like a little more charm and creature comforts than are found in some of RS's recommendations. For first-timers, especially, it's important to know what niche his recommendations are aimed at. Check reviews on Tripadvisor and booking.com. It's not necessary to break the bank in order to stay in very nice places in Italy. Just on the day trip issue. Between Amalfi and Capri, Capri hands down. We liked Amalfi, even based there on one trip. However, Capri has more to see and do. You can "do" Amalfi in half a day. We liked Anacapri better than Capri town. Be sure to get an early start, and check on the time of the last ferry back. Some unsolicited advice: don't visit the Emerald Grotto. What a tourist trap! Put me off visiting the Blue Grotto, though some like it.

Posted by
32405 posts

paulina,

One other point to mention about Positano is that if you're planning on lots of tanning on the beach, you'll have to do it early in the day, as the town is in the shade from about mid-afternoon onward.

Posted by
11 posts

This board has been so helpful.
I'm compiling a list of things to research.
Thoughts on Capri vs Ischia?

A friend told me Capri is a tourist trap and Ischia is more authentic and has more to see/do.
And then a neighbor told me Capri was a must do....

Posted by
32405 posts

paulina,

I can't offer any comments on Ischia, although I know someone here from Procida so could ask him for thoughts on the subject. Although Capri is somewhat "touristy", it's still a beautiful and historic place and (IMO) well worth a visit. I wouldn't (and didn't) bother with the Blue Grotto, but you'll have to decide if that's important to see. It's nice to see all the posh shops and have a glimpse at the lives of the rich and famous. You could also make a visit to AnaCapri.

Posted by
1436 posts

Paulina: you asked opinions on Capri versus Ischia and I want to chime in for Ischia. It is a beautiful and relaxing place to visit especially for a honeymoon. Although I have no personal knowledge of Capri, I opted for a day at the thermal springs on Ischia. It was a wonderful day spent in beautiful surroundings. There are a number of thermal springs/spas to visit there. I chose Negombo and had a lovely time. Happy honeymoon to you and have fun in Italy.

Linda

Posted by
1436 posts

Paulina, also for what it is worth, I found Positano pretty, but really just full of places to shop.

Posted by
2492 posts

We stayed at a lovely B&B in Positano, Villa La Tartania, great balcony overlooking water. Ate twice at Brunos up on the hill towards bus stop twice as my son loved it and he is picky eater. He was just in Sorrento two weeks go and went back to Positano and had to eat there again. We really enjoyed Positano and think it would be great place for honeymoon.

Posted by
11 posts

Hi everyone.
Thank you for all of the veteran travel wisdom.
Now...sigh...our plan is altered a bit.
Our plan is still Rome and the Amalfi Coast for our honeymoon in October, but my fiance is set on spending two nights in Venice first.
We are using airmiles and after much...much trial and error it seems we'll be flying in and out of Milan.

So: Milan to Venice for two nights. Venice to Rome for 3 nights.
Rome to Amalfi Coast for 4 or 5 nights.
Then a day of travel back to fly out of Milan.

My questions are:
Thoughts on the last leg - AmalfiCoast to Milan via train to return home? The train 'appears' to be about a 5 hour ride from Naples to Milan.
I know we are shorting ourselves on the Rome leg. But we'll be back. Is the plan for 4 or 5 nights on the coast 'too' much though?

THANK YOU.
Paula

Posted by
8084 posts

I've never been in Positano in October, but I would make a wild guess that there's "less to do" than during the high season. (Warning: To me, nightclubbing doesn't count as "something to do", but I'm sure some of the clubs don't operate in October.) There are likely to be fewer ferry runs, although I imagine the locals need just as many busses to commute to work. It's good that the weather won't be too hot, but you might think about whether you want to spend every moment with each other, or if you want to go on excursions most days.

I know that Positano is closer to Amalfi/Ravello and the smaller towns, but Sorrento is a better location for most day trips. My wife and I went on every excursion we would find in Bermuda for our honeymoon - but you two may have other plans. We certainly would have gone to Pompeii if we had honeymooned in the area you're going. But Pompeii is a long, annoying trip by public transportation from Positano, for example.