Where to spend four night in Central Italy, mid June 2019.

Perugia is a wonderful city with Museums, churches, and interesting historical sites. There is a good system of escalators to the city center as well as frequent city buses. The center is compact but I did not notice many places to stay in that area. Getting to the center or to the train station from my hotel involved either a bus ride or travel on the escalators- like many other cities in Umbria, the interesting part of the town is at the top of steep hills. I’ve done easy day trips from Perugia to Assisi by train and to Gubbio (one of my favorite destinations) by bus. Spoleto, another hill town with great escalators, is about an hour away by train.

If your visit coincides with the annual Chocolate Festival, be aware that the event turns the city center into a maze of chocolate vendor booths and brings throngs of people into the city. The trip to Gubbio came about in order to escape the weekend chocolate festival crowds - other people headed off on a day trip to Lake Trasemino for the same reason.

For four nights, Perugia would be an excellent city to use as a base to explore sites in Umbria and to enjoy the culture, food, and atmosphere of the city itself.

We stayed in Perugia for 2 nights and enjoyed it. But, we had a car, and by the time we found our way to the parking lot (GPS was useless) by going through all the tiny streets, my husband was such a wreck that we didn't leave for the entire time. You then take 2 escalators up to the top. We just hung out in the hilltop part, which was fine with us. Had a great B&B, https://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/it/umbria/garden-house-perugia/10658

On our way to Orvieto, we stopped in Spello, and absolutely loved it! It is small, but scenic. If I had known more about it, I would have stayed there instead! Never made to Assisi..next time though.

Venice and the area is very rich location, but I'm astonished that you are planning 17 nights in a single crowded (if magical) city at high-season. Aren't you passing up a lot of other things? Since you are art fans, I wonder also about summer music, opera, and theater festivals? I think Maggio Musicale in Florence would be over by the 22nd, however.

Don't forget to reserve The Last Supper months in advance.

Tim, we have spent many months in Venice, and the seventeen night visit is for us relatively short. I am visiting in September for the Architecture Biennale plus maybe a side trip to Trieste, and the visit next year is driven by the launch in Venice of a friend’s third novel set in Venice. If the Art Biennale interested you, you might enjoy Vengeance in Venice by Philip Jones, Phil’s second novel. The theme is a murder in the Great Britain pavilion in the Giardini.

We are unusual in doing seventeen nights, the more typical visitor spends less than seven. But after several visits, one can discover a different Venice, almost a subterranean Venice, a Venice mostly ignored by the short stay visitors or the cruise liner passengers, and places that never see crowds.

In no particular order, the Querini Stampalia Foundation, the Palazzo Fortuny, picnic on Certosa, lunch at the Boy Scout camp on Mazzorbetto, the cemetery on the Lido, a drink at the Bar Tedeschi on Sant’ Erasmo, climb the campanile on Torcello, tour the Georges Cini Foundation on San Giorgio, the Tre Ochi photo gallery on Giudecca, the garden that inspired Henry James’ novel The Aspern Papers.

The list is just about endless.

We have stayed in Assisi, Spoleto and Spello. We visited Perugia only on a day trip. My recollection is that Spello has the easiest walk to the train station of any of these, which helps with day trips. The bus stops are also easily accessible. In addition, there's a taxi man who would probably drive you to any surrounding towns.

We spent 5 nights in Assisi last fall and really enjoyed using it as a base. We also explored Assisi itself quite thoroughly. I can recommend an apartment if you like, The Brigolante Town Apartments. Rebecca is a fabulous host and the apartments are centrally located. We did not have a car.

I am envious of the 17 nights in Venice. We've spent up to a week at a time and have been there 10 or 11 times now. Never get enough. Last year was our first Biennale as we usually visit in winter. Great experience.

Montepulciano