After fighting the crowds this week in Cinque Terre ( think human sardines on the trains and ferries) we took an hour train ride north from Monterossa to the beautiful Ligurian seaside town of Santa Margherita Ligure. It was beautiful, scenic, and had all the charms of a Cinque Terre town without the crowds. The RS guidebook gives a good description of the town.
Wonderful town. Other lovely towns near SML: Rapallo and Camogli. You can take a ferry between them.
Yes! So much more to Liguria than the 5 towns. They are cute, especially in the early AM and evening, but day time crowds are disturbing.
Agree...I enjoyed SML more than the Cinque Terre. And I enjoyed the CT from the sea. (Less crowds.)
Shhhh
Don’t let everyone know!
I just returned from nine nights in Santa Martgherita Ligure. It was a good stay, but Camogli still has my heart (I had stayed there on a previous trip).
I have a similar love for Camogli, Janet. I stayed a few nights there years ago and loved it. A few years later I came back to stay a few nights in Rapallo, which was really nice too...but not as charming as Camogli.
“Shhhh
Don’t let everyone know!”
ChristineH, that’s exactly what i was gonna say!!
Hey, I for one appreciate the share! We are a small on-line community, thanks for the tip. Pay it forward, right?!
Hey, I for one appreciate the share! We are a small on-line community, thanks for the tip. Pay it forward, right?!
Agreed. It's too bad some on here with good information can be so stingy with it.
I’ve shared how much we enjoyed our time in SML many times here.
Usually folks are too set on going to CT because the book tells them it’s a must to pay attention or consider anywhere different.
over the years we have enjoyed visiting SML as well as Portovenere. After reading an article a few years back in the NYT we visited Lerici which is just a dozen or so miles south of Cinque Terre but mostly visited by Italian tourists.
Would love your recommendations for accommodations in Santa Margherita!
We loved our stay at
https://www.hotel-continental.it/en/7694/hotel
Many years ago Santa Margherita was our plan B, after my travel friend and I could locate no accommodation in Portofino. We were so glad we changed plans! I had one of the best seafood meals there, and the town itself was adorable. We did think about going to Cinque Terre but were too hungover both days...that is travel in your twenties I guess!
I stayed in apartment booked on Booking.com, but the RS guidebook has some excellent suggestions for hotels in SML.
Any of you Italian riviera fans, been to Portovenere?
I’ve been to Cinque Terre multiple times and enjoyed it when crowds were much smaller but I’ve heard it’s been overrun. Looking for alternatives. SML, Lerici, and Portovenere are on my watch list. Sounds like I should also add Camogli as well.
Anyone been to all of these and can add some color to them?
Agwoodsus,
Portovenere and Lerici are both good alternatives for staying or just a day away from the crowds. They are only served by bus and, in the case of Portovenere, by boat, not train. Actually helps to keep the, quieter than the famous 5.
If you like to walk:
Easy walk from S.M. to Portofino. About 3 miles and mostly flat, all along the coast.
If you like to hike:
One of my favorite CT area hikes is from Camogli to Santa Frutosa. Bring food/water. Then end up at the beach for a swim. Then take the boat back to Camogli. If you are there on the weekend there is usually a boat selling cooked fish right off their boat on the dock next to where the boat drops you off. So good!!!
I enjoyed going to Portovenere on a day trip. Not sure about spending more than possibly one night there.