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What Venice is like now.

This is from a friend, Philip Gwyn Jones. Phil lives in Venice, teaches English a bit and writes novels. He is not exactly your standard writer living in a garret; four of his books have sold well, the fifth is on the way.

Phil and Caroline live in an apartment close to the San Basilio vaporetto stop.

Two days ago I went to buy a newspaper, a sandwich and a book. Things that would have seemed banal at the beginning of March now seem like a bit of a privilege. I needed to stretch my legs and so I walked along the Zattere to what passes for Walter’s edicola these days. You might have heard about Walter. His newspaper kiosk was washed away into the Giudecca canal by the acqua grande last November. It’s since been recovered but, until it’s properly patched up again, Walter’s operating out of a space belonging to the church of the Gesuati on the Zattere.

I stop by Al Bottegon to pick us up a couple of panini for lunch. They’re famous for some of the best cicheti in Venice, and do some of the best filled rolls as well. Getting to the bar is usually akin to a contact sport, but there are no such problems today. The floor is marked out with tape, indicating the obligatory 1m of distance, but the bar is quiet anyway. It would be nice to stop and have a drink, but Caroline isn’t with me and I don’t think it would seem quite right. The first drink outside our apartment in ten weeks is something, I think, we really need to do together…

Libreria Toletta is the largest bookshop in this part of town. They’ve never stocked my books, but I forgive them (it’s an issue with the Italian distribution system, and there’s nothing they can do about it), and so I think it would be nice to stop off and browse. One door has been marked out as a dedicated entrance, the other as the exit. There are no formal restrictions on numbers, just a request to be patient and respectful. In the event, there is just one other customer. We dance our way around each other, leafing through books as best we can in our thin latex gloves, always mindful of maintaining a minimum distance from each other. I buy a book by Gianrico Carofiglio that I haven’t read – I don’t know why, but there’s always a book by Gianrico Carofiglio that I haven’t read – pay (contactless, of course) and make my way home along a not-quite-deserted Calle Lunga.

That evening we go out with a friend, for a Spritz at Nico’s on the Zattere. It’s a slightly odd feeling. Everything feels normal and yet – like everything else today – anything but normal. We are at liberty to remove our masks. The waiter, however, is not, which makes conversation between us feel just a little awkward, unequal. A family of five are seated on the adjacent table, positioned, of course, exactly one metre away. The three little girls wander just a little bit too close to us, and mamma arrives quickly to chivvy them back to their seats. Most of the customers unmask as soon as they sit down, other stay masked as long as they possibly can. Everybody, evidently, is having a good time, enjoying the early evening summer sun in that blessed period before it becomes too hot. And yet, it’s evident that things are not quite as they should be.

That’s to be expected, of course. Things don’t feel normal. Not yet. That’s going to take some time. But things are, perhaps, normal enough for now. And that’s enough to be going on with.

And it was also a hell of a good spritz.

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406 posts

I thoroughly enjoyed reading that, thank you. It’s really how we all feel, yes? 500+ people have died in my city. I haven’t had the privilege yet to go sit outside at a restaurant and it makes me nervous to do so, but I can’t wait. I know I’ll be anxious, bringing my wipes and wiping down things, so different than before. Oh, I can’t wait until a vaccine!

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1523 posts

After reading this post, I’m going to have to search our his novels. His writing goes straight to the heart.

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864 posts

Phil’s novels are, in order,
The Venetian Game
Vengeance in Venice
The Venetian Masquerade and
Venetian Gothic.

All written in the first person, which makes them quite intimate, in the voice of Nathan Sutherland, the Honourary British Consul.

Also worth a read is “To Venice with Love”, the story of Caroline and Phil’s move to Venice from Edinburgh. Dedicated to Louise and Peter.

I’m Peter.

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2498 posts

Aussie, thanks for sharing Philip’s heartfelt updates. My husband loved his first novel and is looking forward to reading the rest of his series. Thanks for the reminder. Oh what I wouldn’t give for a Aperol Spritz! All the best to Philip & his wife. Miss Venice...

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1264 posts

We had our first Spritz Aperol the other evening at home in the garden , but it just didn't taste the same not sitting beside a canal!

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864 posts

If Aperol spritzes are not doing it for you, try a Negroni.
Equal parts of Campari, London Gin and vermouth. Get the best vermouth that you can find. I use Antica Formula vermouth by Giuseppe B. Carpano.

Stir together, don’t even think of using a cocktail shaker. Serve freezing cold with a single big iceblock.

Close your eyes and pretend you are in Italy. If that does not work, have another.

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5922 posts

Lovely writing, thank you for sharing.

Ah, Carpano. We go to the old Carpano factory every time we are in Turin (my husband’s hometown). It’s where they built the first Eataly.

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1570 posts

Thanks for the nice post. I think you just sold some books for your friend! 👍