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What to see from Florence to Maremma

Posted by (West Coast) on

I asked this over on Thorn Tree, but thought I should poll y'all as well. In October, I'm planning on picking up a rental car in Florence (Yes, int'l drivers permit and ZTL, ho capito) and then driving down to my next stop in the Maremma (way southern Tuscany) about halfway between the coast and Lago di Bolsena, and looking for thoughts on what to see on the way down. (Not that I need to decide right now, but I'd like to be able to stop thinking about it and move the brain on to other things).

Limits: I'm already planning on a day from where I'm staying near Montemerano to go to the Tufa cities and maybe Tuscania and probably Tarquinia (thanks Zoe for the trip report!) on the way down to Rome where I dump the car. Will have been to Volterra and San Gimignano isn't a priority. And I'll probably have gone through Chianti on a bus from Florence and won't be drinking and driving anyway, so wine stops are out (sad face). Walking and hiking are good though.

So here are the options for places to stop that might be good and looking to see what people really enjoyed or see if I've missed something that doesn't show up in the guides: drive through Crete Senese for the view, Murlo, Sant'Antimo abbey (which I've seen a lot of on this sight, but it'll be Sunday and timing will be an issue), Bagni San Filippo, San Galgano abbey, Santa Fiora. Obviously can't do all of this in one day (because of those speed limit cameras) and weather may play a part in limiting the stops, but thoughts are greatly appreciated. Grazie!

Posted by
5292 posts

San Galgano was pretty, but not exactly anything to write home about. I really wished I had made it to this geothermal site: http://www.maremmaguide.com/parco-geotermico-delle-biancane.html
I did not map your route, but I spent 10 days in the region in May and especially enjoyed the Populonia/Baratti archaeological site and the Etruscan ruins outside of Savona (near Pitigliano, which was also a highlight). Be sure to give the Maremma park plenty of time--it is large and the visitor restrictions require good planning. We found the best way to enjoy the park was renting bikes to get to the trailheads that you otherwise have very long walks to.
This is one of our favorite regions of Italy yet!

Posted by
78 posts

Unfortunately concur that San Galgano is skippable. However, you might not be prepared for the cliff-hanging awesomeness of Pitigliano and the deep history of Sovana. If it were me, I would visit these towns. Sovana has the very compelling Santa Maria Cathedral which is not grand, but immediately recognizable as an ancient cathedral built on an originally pagan site, with layers of symbology and architecture... and it's pretty easy to park in a town parking lot and stroll the one street, grab an espresso, etc.

Posted by
11613 posts

You're welcome. I love the town of Bolsena itself, best gelato in the world at an artiginal shop on via Santa Cristina. Castle, volcanic lake, good restaurant choices.

Posted by
16219 posts

San Gimignano and Monteriggioni should be a priority, if you haven't been before.

Yes, they are popular tourist destinations, but there is a reason why they are popular tourist destinations while Piombino or Taranto are not. Besides they won't be so busy in October, unless you go on a Sunday when many Italians also visit.

While in Montemerano I'm sure you will go to the Saturnia (thermal spas). In addition, besides Pitigliano, Sovana, etc. you should consider a visit at Capalbio, a quaint village that has become el buen retiro of many Roman V.I.P.s.
Of course, another must is a trip to the park of the Mt. Argentario peninsula (formerly an island, which over the centuries has become connected to the mainland by the 3 isthmuses formed by detritus deposited by local rivers).

Posted by
3648 posts

If you follow Roberto's recommendation for Capalbio, there is an outdoor sculpture park, Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, very close by. It's mostly the work of modern artist, Niki Saint Phalle, with a few pieces by her husband Jean Tinguely. Her works are huge, colorful, and humorous. I consider it a "do not miss," if you are in the vicinity.

Posted by
438 posts

Thanks all! Sovana, etc. are for sure on the list to do when I'm there. I hadn't looked at Capalbio before, so I'll check that out for when I'm down there. There's a Niki Sant Phalle sculpture here in town and it's great, so a park could be interesting, weather depending. I hadn't planned on San Gimignano- and am going on not just a Sunday but the Sunday before the Nov. 1 holiday. San Gim may wait but I'll look into Monteriggioni (unless I change my mind which will happen 10 times before actually getting in the car and going). San Galgano is out but the Parco Geotermico looks interesting. And Bolsena!

Bottom line is I need another week off.

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