What's Wrong with Milan?

Where Milan elsewhere, everywhere but in Italy, it would be a major tourist destination. There are not many places in the world that can sport a Gothic cathedral, a Michelangelo piece of sculture, Caravaggios, Mantegnas, Titian, Bellini, a Leonardo fresco and a lot of other things. In Italy, it comes after the big three destinations.
Other than that, Milano is a bit on the expensive side (it is where the action is for media, finance, industry, fashion) and sights tend to be spread all over the city.

I am born near Milano, in nearby Monza, from a Florentine family. I have spent my student years in Milan, my wife is from Milan and we could consider going back there when we are retired. It is the most international of Italian cities. Maybe with a limited time to spend in Italy there are places that have an higher priority.

Thanks Lachera! Last year we were able to visit Florence and Rome and even see a bit of Sicily and the Amalfi Coast as well as Pompeii... so we are zeroing in on the Northern part of the country this year, and thinking April might be an ideal time to see Venice... What do you think?

We did a multi-city flight flying into Venice and departing out of Milan. That worked well for us. That might be something to consider.

Its been a lot of years. But I loved Milan. I guess tge negative is that it more real and less contrived for tourists?

Don't give up on Milan! It's definitely has that big-city feel, but the Last Supper and the Duomo are two excellent reasons to go. Book your Last Supper tickets as far in advance as possible, and plan plenty of time to get there (we got turned around walking en route due to a finicky map app, and ended up taking a taxi in order to make our time slot, which was fine.) We were so glad we got to see it. The Duomo, especially the roof, was amazing to us. If you're a shopper, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is a wow.

Also, read up on all three airports: Malpensa (larger, most of the international traffic,) Linate (smaller, closer to the city) and Bergamo (Ryanair uses it.) We ended up flying out of Malpensa to go home.

I loved Milan. Going up on the roof of the Duomo was fascinating and so was seeing the Last Supper. I even enjoyed walking around the Galleria. Our hotel recommended a small restaurant on a side street that was wonderful. It was a great place to spend a couple of days before flying home. You just don’t want to be there if there’s a big futball game going on because the town is really into soccer and they celebrate their wins….

We really enjoyed our visit to Milan last spring, even though we weren't able to get tickets for The Last Supper. The tour of the Duomo is awesome, especially the rooftop tour. We also enjoyed walking around the Brera District. We had some great dinners. There are more churches and museums that we didn't have time for. I highly recommend visiting Milan.

We flew in and out of Milan. Spent 3 nights there upon arrival and then one more night at the end of our trip.

Although I have heard the negative responses to Milan, I valued and enjoyed my brief time there and would be glad to spend more time. Like many others, I chose Milan for the cheaper flights in and out. I stayed in Milan for the first 2 nights and last night of a Northern Italy trip in October 2024. In one full and one later half day, I was able to see the Last Supper, the Duomo, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana art museum, the Basilica di Sant Ambrogio, and some iconic fashion stores (only window shopping). I feel I could easily fill a number of additional days. However, if you are looking for quant or charming historic town centers, or dislike big busy cities, or are not that into the specific art Milan has to offer, I can understand why it would not appeal.

Milan is a great city, though it's true it doesn't have the same touristic charm of Venice, Rome or Naples. In 1994, I flew to Milan with the same next destination in mind: Venice and Verona (and then Rome.)

Sometimes I find the atmosphere of cities makes them worth seeing. I found wandering the streets of central Milan pleasant. I bought my niece a dress there. My sister, who was with me, went on a hunt for olive oil. Since you'll be going to Venice next, however, you'll find plenty of shops there, too.

Also, experiences can enrich a trip as much as sites. Milan's historic La Scala Opera House is considered among the top-10 in the world for quality, and it continues to enjoy that reputation. Most of Italy's greatest operatic artists, and many of the finest singers from around the world, have appeared there. Though I am not an opera fan, I decided to go to an opera when I visited Vienna, the other top opera city. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Just an idea in case you go to Milan. Obviously, the Duomo and Last Supper are superb.

Nothing is wrong with Milan. Your plan is good. If your flights are more convenient and cheaper why do you want to fly to Venice. Varenna is in your plans anyhow, and Milan is near.
Although Milan is not my favorite city, however there are some great world renown beautiful spots to visit that can keep you busy for at least a couple of days for sure.
The city is also famous for having the highest crime rate in Italy, so exercise caution when you ride public transit or any crowded areas. There are plenty of pickpockets lurking around.

The problem with Milan is the rest of Italy. There are so many other more picturesque and peaceful destinations to choose from. Picking a very busy and modern destination over the many other options is not the obvious choice.
If Milan appeals to you and if the Last Supper and the domo are enough of a draw, I suggest flying into the Milan airport and then moving on after a few days.
Personally, I have never enjoyed the angry cab drivers and the pace that always seems present so when I make my list of where to visit, Milan does not appear. Been there, done that. There are other places that attract me far more. I did learn some very choice Italian words from a cab driver who was hell bent on passing a long line of traffic on the trolley tracks with a trolley bearing down on us. Apparently, he was expecting others to let him cut back in to avoid the imminent collision with the trolley. I'm still shocked that anyone would pull such a stunt with a passenger in the car and it has been quite a few years. Insert several choice phrases here...............

Venice is fabulous in April!!! Absolutely stunning.

That’s all - I noticed that you mentioned visiting then, and wasn’t clear that others addressed it that full on. :-)

(PS: have been avoiding Milan for years because of the perception that it is dull, not characterful, too “big city” and lacking charm. I believe now that I am wrong about that… and reading the other replies here, I am even MORE convinced that I am wrong!)

I spent six nights in Milan in late August 2024. There were so many art museums to enjoy that I didn't have time to track down the Art Nouveau architecture I also wanted to see. There's a lot of Art Nouveau in Milan. I didn't get to the Monumental Cemetery (a top sight), either. I plan to return, possibly as early as next September, to cover the places I previously omitted. I figure I need another 5 to 7 nights, but I am a slow traveler who walks just about everywhere.

The Duomo is a special place.

I would add that while Florence and Rome have the top huge museums, Milan has a few little nice museums that engage but do not exhaust you. Poldi Pezzoli and Ambrosiana are relatively small but interesting, and even Brera, a major museum, is not overly long to visit. My choice for the bizarre category is San Bernardino alle Ossa, with a chapel entirely decorated with bones from a former cemetery.

I loved Milan-- and apparently so do a lot of people.

[from a 2024 study done by Euromonitor International]

https://thesavvybackpacker.com/most-visited-cities-in-europe/ THE MOST
VISITED CITIES IN EUROPE | A GUIDE TO THE MOST POPULAR EUROPEAN CITIES
A list of the European cities that attract the greatest number of
international visitors each year.

THE MOST VISITED CITIES IN EUROPE
1. PARIS, FRANCE – 50 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
2. LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM — 40 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
3. ROME, ITALY – 35 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
4. ISTANBUL, TURKEY – 20 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
5. BARCELONA, SPAIN — 16 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
6. LISBON, PORTUGAL — 14 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
7. AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS — 8.9 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
8. MILAN, ITALY — 8.2 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
9. VIENNA, AUSTRIA — 8.2 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS
10. PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC — 7.5 MILLION ANNUAL VISITORS

Happy travels!

Milan is not my favorite but it is certainly worth visiting in my opinion. I make it there at least once a year when I going to visit friends in small towns in the area. The Castle has Michelangelo's last Pieta that he was working on before he died - quite the contrast in the 60 years or so from the one in the Vatican. This year by chance I found the Civic museum which was next to a church that is also worth visiting. There are plenty of tourists there.

Tourist numbers are difficult to analyze; or at least take a degree of thought. The best basis of how many tourists enjoy a city is going to be Guest Nights and not “visitors”. Milan is a major airport for a region so the arrivals "visitors" number will be high. The Guest Nights number might be a lot less impressive when compared to other large cities. In other words they "visit" and leave on their way to another place vs they come and stay and play tourist. From my perspective that’s a good thing if most move on. More real, less development to serve tourists. Its also a fairly major business center, so how they separate tourists from business guests???

Still, I spent a lot of days there many years ago, just hanging out and relaxing in a wonderful environment. Good choice if it hasn’t changed.

Another thing that I enjoyed many years ago was the type of foreign national I was most likely to meet. I dont know if the city attracted a different demographic tourist or if the people i was coming into contact with were business people and professionals on their time off work in the city. Probably some of both, but it was nice.

I seriously don’t get all the Milan hate here and on other travel forums. Yes, it’s a very cosmopolitan city. Yes, there are other more attractive cities, but Milano, has its attractions, in addition to those touristic ones mentioned above. Regarding angry cab drivers, Mack, you DO know there are other ways to get around Milano such as streetcars, and the metro, which works very well.
Roberto Da Firenze- I disagree with the “highest crime rate” comment. Those days have long since passed. That used to be the case in the 60’s-80’s, but, my wife, a northern Italian, who took classes in Milano in the late 90’s-early aughts and took the regionale back from Milan to Pavia every night for nine months will attest to the fact that she was never accosted, nor mugged, shot or had any issues whatsoever. Yes, one must be alert, but that’s true in ANY city, Venice, Verona and Rome, especially, included. To say things like you’ve said without ANY proof of such is ludicrous and slanderous. I don’t live in Milano. I didn’t even like it the first time I visited with my future wife. Being from NYC it seemed, how shall I say it, quaint, like a mini wannabe city that was striving for more. But, after 25 years of traveling to, living in and visiting Milan, I’ve fallen in love with it. I wouldn’t live there again, as I love the Lecco/Bergamo area much, much more, but there’s so much to see, so much more than what tourists recommend.
Have any of you ever visited the Cimitero MonumentaleIt’s a beautiful place to visit. Yes, I know it might seem a bit macabre to recommend visiting a cemetery, but, let me tell you, you won’t soon forget it.

It’s not just airport arrivals. Milan also has the third highest number of visitors’ hotel nights per year after Rome and Venice (and before Florence which is fourth in the ranking).
Don’t forget that Milan has a lot of business travelers who stay overnight and many international fairs that lots of visitors attend.

We flew home out of Milan, so we spent a couple of days there. I'm not religious, but I was ultra impressed with the Last Supper. I think that everyone should see it in their lifetime, if they can.

I have traveled solo to Milan a # of times in the last few years and spent several days there each time, always enjoying my visits. Taken quite a few taxi rides at all hours of the day with no issues. I fly from San Francisco into London, then onto Linate. Easy to get into the city from there. Easy to get to other destinations by train. If you want to see The Last Supper, follow them on social media and they'll let you know when they are releasing tickets. I have flown into & out of Venice but prefer Milan. I am no spring chicken but feel safe walking there, with the usual precautions.

Love Milan, I just feel so shabbily dressed when I am there! :)

In addition to the Duomo, Last Supper/Il Cenacolo, La Scala, there are Pinacoteca Brera, Pinacoteca Ambrosiania, Basilica di Sant'Ambrogio, Castello Sforezesco, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore (we loved this!!!), Fondazione Prada for contemporary art, and more.

Also, I feel very safe in Milan, exercising my normal big-city awareness.

hey hey lisa
i'm stubborn when people say no with negative views. i'm going for it to make my own opinion. several years ago my firat time to rome for a transatlantic cruise (rome to fort lauderdale) wanting to ride the "fast train", friend said no time i said no way i'll go alone LOL. she'd been to florence so we picked naples. took the train from rome and one of our best/fun day trips. yes it is dirty/gritty/garbage but so worth seeing it. many people during this over tourism travel all over and do stop in naples.
look at doing a multi-city flight (USA to venice to milan to USA), no backtracking)
flights out of venice can be a PITA with early morning am and costs. spend few days in venice "gorgeous city" train to verona to varenna to milan to spend few days to see what milan offers then to MXP to fly home. see places & things you haven't to make your own opinion. lots to see in milan give it a chance, fashion shows, last supper, duomo, navigli along canal for shops & restaurants, home to risotto, crown jewel of starbucks (most beautiful in milan), guruwalk.com/milan take a free tour, many shopping areas
museoauto.com
take a train or bus to the fiat museum with old and new cars to view
milantips.com/ 25x attractions & sightseeing
if planning to stay few days in milan reserve your tickets early to last supper (cenacolovinciano.org)
have a great time, enjoy
aloha

@johnrossjan

If you disagree with me, then you disagree with statistical data.

Italy, like all governments in the advanced world, keeps crime statistics, and the Italian most prestigious financial newspaper (IlSole24Ore), also pink like the Financial Times of London, keeps track of it.

The province of Milan has the highest overall crime rate in Italy, Rome is no. 2, Florence is no. 3. Obviously, by US standards, crime in Italy is laughably low. If Milan were in the US it would be by far the safest city. Chicago has 50 times the crime rate of Milan.

Eat your heart out Naples! Naples is only 12th.

https://lab24.ilsole24ore.com/indice-della-criminalita/classifica/tabelle/

Hi Lisa,

When you’re pricing out time & money, consider flying into Venice and out of Malpensa (Milan) on a one-reservation multi-city ticket. That will save you the time & cost of taking the train back across northern Italy to fly home.

I’ve stayed in a lot of Italian cities, and Milan is towards the bottom of that list, but that doesn’t mean you won’t thoroughly enjoy it. I was just in Milan again two months ago because my adult daughter wanted to see it. Buy your Last Supper ticket as soon as it is available and also your timed ticket for the Duomo, including the rooftop walk. Also check to see if there’s any events in the Roman Arena at Verona. I attended a concert there recently; i know you won’t be there during the opera season. I will add the link to my recent trip report since it covers three of your four cities.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-solo-mother-daughter-in-north-italy

Have a great time!

I flew into Milan last month, spent four nights, and really enjoyed it! We stayed in a neighborhood just north of the Domodossola station. Fantastic meals nearby, great transportation options (although we walked almost everywhere). We viewed the Last Supper, toured the rooftop of the Duomo and visited the Duomo museum, wandered, and took a day trip to Pavia Certosa and Pavia. Michelangelo's Pieta is very moving. Took a tram to the Monumental Cemetery. Very moving-not to be missed, in my opinion