Western Sicily

We loved both Castellammare del Golfo -- for its charm and proximity to the Zingaro Reserve -- and Trapani, which was a surprise to us, but just a lovely small city. we visited Erice in between the two stays, and also Segesta. we also visited the teeny island of Mozia, and the salt flats. sorry we didn't have time to take the ferry for a day trip to one of the islands, and we never made it to Marsala or Mazara.
Agrigento is great for the Valley of Temples, but we wouldn't have wanted to stay more than the 1 night.........we were able to do a visit to the Scala dei Turchi on our arrival day, and that was very pleasant. Between Agrigento and Western Sicily you could also visit Selinunte, which we found fascinating, as it is split between the temple sites (mostly ruins) and the acropolis/agora. We stayed for 2 nights at La Foresteria, a resort owned by the Planeta Winery family, and that was a nice spot for both R&R and a visit to Selinunte -- from there it was an easy drive to Palermo.

Hi bap, Mazara del Vallo was a very pleasant place to stay. The historic center of the town is quite compact and interesting. Make sure to see the Dancing Satyr that was pulled from the sea and is housed in a small museum in the heart of the casbah area. If you base in Mazara del Vallo for a few days you could include a daytrip to Marsala and neighboring vineyards and a must see visit to the ruins at Selinunte. That archeological park is impressive and beautiful, right next to the sea. Another daytrip nearby would be to Sciacca to see its waterfront and ceramics.

I also agree with the previous suggestion of Castellammare del Golfo. Seaside town, pretty views and well positioned for daytrips to Scopello, Segesta, Erice, Trapani, San Vito lo. Capo which is reportedly one of if not the prettiest beach in Sicily. Palermo has much to see and I recommend staying a few nights there.

Cefalu is also a very pretty town. Daytrips from there might be to Cacamo or Castelbuono or the Madonie Park for nature and hiking.

Well, the only place in Sicily that we did not enjoy or feel welcome in was Cefalu. Conversely, we had a lovely stay and great food in Agrigento. Visiting the Valley of the Temples at sunset into evening was, for us, the highlight of wonderful Sicily. In addition to Scala dei Turchi, nearby beaches and Villa del Casale are also well worth a visit.

Selinunte was nice, but after Agrigento it might be too many temples. A few kilometers outside of Agrigento is Scala dei Turchi. If you don’t want to walk down onto the rocks, there’s a nearby overlook that affords great views of it. Just down the coast is Lido Rossello. Park by the beach and you can see the same rock formations as at Scala dei Turchi without having to go up and down the stairs.

We spent a night in Marsala. It’s a sleepy town with no must see sights, but good for walking around and relaxing. Nearby is the ancient salt farm (Antica Salina). Closer to Trapani is its salt farm and museum (Salt Museum). Both salt farms are off the beaten path on very rural roads. Bookmark their locations to your navigation app to make getting there easier.

Erice is good for a day. We spent a couple nights there. It is jammed full of day trippers until about 4pm. After they leave most of the town shuts down. Even the restaurants closed by 10pm. It is small with only one main street. If you go there, skip its castle. Even its nominal entrance fee was too much for the little there was to see. We took the cable car down to Trapani to see it. Its historic center is nice, but doesn’t take long to visit.

In Agrigento we stayed at B&B Villa San Marco. It’s off a dirt road and we walked to the Valley of the Temples via a path through its olive grove. In Marsala we stayed at Hotel Carmine. It’s within a ZTL, but you can enter for 30 minutes to unload/load your vehicle. The hotel moved our car for us to a free spot on a side street. In Erice we stayed at Hotel Villa San GiovannI. It was a no frills hotel. Our room didn’t even have a tv, but the view from it was spectacular. The room had a small balcony. The hotel had free parking.

Finally, rather than drive in Palermo we stayed in Monreale at B&B Elvira Al Duomo. It had free parking. From it, the cathedral was maybe a 10 minutes walk away. We took a bus into Palermo.

@ milgreen2 and Pat and jaimeelsabio: I've combined some of your suggestions...thanks! mml, I've been to Cefalù and Villa del Casale, but thanks.

Castellammare del Golfo has been on my mind since before our trip to Sicily last year! It had fallen off my list because nobody ever mentions it. I agree that it's in a great position, but I wasn't sure if it was too scrappy (no aversion intended). The reason that I was considering the area around Cornino and Cortigliolo (just north east of Trapani on the coast) is that there are some interesting Airbnbs and quiet beaches in the area. April not being beach weather, but still nice to walk.

We will be arriving from northern Italy after having spent 20 days in Venice, Bologna and Milano so we'll be looking for a slower pace. We're ending the trip in Napoli (3 or 4 nights, yet to decide) and Rome 4 nights (booked).

On the island, I guess we'll need to move more often than I'd hoped. How's this sound? I keep seeing ways to shuffle this around. BTW We've visited Palermo before but just for a day.

Fly into PMO, pick up the car sleep in:

Castellamarre 4 nights (visit Scopello, Zingaro, Segesta, San Vito lo Capo)

Trapani (or close-by)?: 3 nights (visit Trapani, Erice, an Island?)

Mazara del Valo: 3 ( Marsala en route, Dancing Satyr and the town, Selinunte, Sciacca or see en route to Agrigento)

Agrigento 1 (Scala dei Turchi en route to Agrigento). Valley of Temples at sunset

Palermo 2, or 3 here and 3 (instead of 4) in Naples ??? = 13 or 14 nights

Fly to Naples 3 or 4 nights (never been, need to see Pompeii, Herculaneum, Archeological Museum)

Ending in Rome 4 nights (booked, it's our third visit there)

Did you get to Palermo on your previous trip to Sicily? If not, I'd urge more than 3 nights there. There's a lot to see.

I didn't find the Egadi Islands off Trapani all that exciting, but I can see why they'd be popular with Europeans--uncrowded (capacity-controlled), sandy beaches. I could have put that day to better use in Palermo or Siracusa or somewhere in the interior, not finding sand all that exciting to look at. If you decide to head out there and the situation hasn't changed, you might need to buy your boat tickets a day ahead of time. There are (or used to be, as of 2015) two companies running boats. You have to select your return time, as well as your outbound-departure time, when you buy your tickets, and you have to travel in both directions with the same company.

@acraven: Thanks for the reality check. Yes, been to Palermo but only for a day.
Since it will be mid April when in Trapani, we will probably skip the islands, I get what you mean.
We spent 4 days in Ortigia/ Siracusa last year. Loved it. I’d go back in a heartbeat but not this trip.

Throw that maybe-to-the-Egadi-Islands day to Palermo.

Have you considered staying in Scopello rather than Castellamarre? It was one of our favorite stops in Sicily. Very close to Zingaro and other coastal walks, and well positioned for your other day trips. Surprisingly good choice of restaurants for such a small place.