I'm interested in going to Naples. I've read about how beautiful it can be as well as how unpleasant, even dangerous, other parts can be. I've been to many places in northern Italy and have spent a good deal of time in Rome, but nowhere farther south.
If you've been to Naples, what was your experience like? What did you see? What did you do? Did you go with someone? Travel solo?
Any advice?
Thank you.
Naples is wonderful. I was there solo last December and enjoyed roaming the city for three days. I never found it unpleasant or dangerous - just Neapolitan! In a way it is different in character than Rome and the cities in the north but that’s what makes Naples unique. The museums, neighborhoods, churches, piazzas and pizzas were very enjoyable. I stayed in a hotel (Art Resort Umberto I) on the 4th floor of the Galleria Umberto I which was very convenient. Take the metro and enjoy the artful deco of the stations.
I traveled to Naples for three days/nights over Thanksgiving several years ago with my then-college-aged daughter. We really enjoyed Naples. It may have helped that what had been rainy weather cleared that weekend, and lots of local people were on the streets enjoying and celebrating beautiful, sunny weather. There was wonderful street life - music, street food, laughing people. We loved the pizza, the Archeology Museum, sitting at cafes in piazzas, and the lemoncello offered us at the end of a delicious meal. We also did a day-trip via train to Pompeii. We never felt threatened, but we are also fairly savvy travelers (who of course wear money belts inside our clothes, and use purses with plenty of strong closures, always worn cross-body style). Our modest but lovely, friendly hotel made arrangements for our transfer to and from the airport, which was quite useful as we arrived rather late in the evening, and the trusted taxi driver made sure that we were INSIDE the hotel before he left.
We had a wonderful experience in Naples and stayed near the Lungomare, along the waterfront, in Chiaia. The airport is near the city center, easy to get to and views of Vesuvius are amazing. Pizza is the best ever eaten.
Naples. Yeah. It's a tough topic for me because I like it and dislike it (love and hate are too strong) it at the same time. It is definitely worth visiting, I in no way want to discourage that, but there are some challenges. Some travelers seem to have real trouble with that, some find it energizing. I don't know if you can tell which camp you will be in until you are there.
First - about me, because I think the source of advice like this is important. I travel a lot in southern Europe and like a lot of places some people consider a little gritty. For example, I love Sicily and did not find Palermo unpleasant in the least - I enjoyed every bit of my time there but I see where it could be difficult for some. Parts of Granada, Spain are considered questionable by some travelers but it's my absolute favorite place in Europe. I am a city person, I also love Rome and Athens (including areas outside the tourist core) and frankly don't quite understand why some people find them overwhelming. I don't like places that are too "polished" or made up for rich tourists. I thought going in that, given all that, I'd really like Naples. Just didn't quite happen for me.
I spent 4 nights in Naples recently, and also went years ago for maybe 2 days. I'm ignoring my older visit and focusing on what I saw recently.
Naples - the positive. It has some amazing sights that are not as overrun with tourists as similarly interesting sights in other parts of Italy. Most of the people are very friendly. There is a real vibrancy to the street life that can be exciting. The pizza is excellent. The city is a good jumping off point for places like Pompeii, Amalfi coast, Herculanem, and Mt. Vesuvius.
The negative - I don't know, it just wore me down in a way Rome or Athens doesn't. Very few trees in the historic core or many other neighborhoods (I don't mean parks, I mean even those little city trees planted in sidewalks or around squares). It wasn't as pleasant to wander as other cities. I felt more like I was going from sight to sight (all the sights were great!) and not enjoying the time between sights. That's not normal for me. I like to soak in the vibe of a place, walk around, take random detours and enjoy being out in the city. That wasn't pleasant for me in Naples and I just can't put my finger on why.
Safety - I think reports of safety concerns are a bit overblown if you use common sense. I never once felt physically unsafe. I felt worried about pickpockets on the Circumvesuviana train, there were some suspicious people roaming the cars, but it was fine. I think I got ripped off by one cab driver, but that's my fault and common anywhere.
I stayed in the Chiaia neighborhood, not far from Piazza Plebiscito. This was a nice area, a little removed from the hubub of the historic core but easily walkable to it, also walkable to the waterfront. It's considered a wealthier district of the city, but it wasn't expensive or overly fancy. I liked the area. I'd stay there or in the historic core area (toledo/dante metro stops vicinity).
Our experience with three visits to Naples is about average for an Italian city like Rome etc. Our first visit in '93 was a little concerning but two visits in the last six years have found it much improved. We hit the museums, wondered the streets, and felt perfectly safe. It probably will a little more grimy than Rome or Florence but a lot of Europe is grimy.
Naples may be grittier than other cities, but their reputation for high crime is undeserved, or at least outdated.
The province of Naples (tot. Population over 3 million) has the record for armed robberies per 100,000 pop (of shops, gas stations, banks). But those crimes are still rare and unlikely to involve tourists.
Naples province has also a high absolute number of murders, about 160 murders a year, but not the highest per capita (Nuoro in Sardinia, and the provinces in Calabria get that award). If you consider that Chicago, with a smaller population than Naples, had 650 murders last year, you see that there is nothing to worry about.
Naples ranks pretty high in the number of frauds (including internet frauds), although not the highest (top 5), so if somebody offers you to sell you Mt. Vesuvius, be careful.
But the crime that is most likely to affect tourists is pickpocketing (borseggi in Italian). On a per capita basis, Naples is actually one of the safest cities for pickpocketing, only 32nd of the 110 provinces.
Rimini is the most pickpocketed, Bologna is second, Milan is third. Even Lucca is more dangerous than Naples when it comes to pickpocketing.
https://www.informagiovani-italia.com/classifica_criminalita_citta_italiane.htm
https://www.agi.it/cronaca/reati_italia_2016-2232301/news/2017-10-09/
I spent 3 days in Naples as a solo, female, over 50 traveler in April 2017. I thoroughly enjoyed the city. I stayed near the Archeological Museum (Hotel Piazza Bellini - highly recommend) and walked all over and never felt unsafe. People were incredibly friendly. I wasn't sure about the city prior to my trip as I tend to prefer smaller towns and had read so many warnings. But the reality was that Naples was a beautiful, vibrant place with so much to see. If you use common sense and are cautious (e.g., use a money belt), you likely aren't at any greater risk of problems than most places. I enjoyed it so much I have it on my list of places to return to someday.
Spent intense and invigorating 4 nights in Naples end of May 2015 and was completely mesmerized by this chaotic and sublimely gritty (yeah, that's a thing to my mind's eye) city. Excerpt from letter I sent to our fabulous RST guide Ann Long: "Our last meal in Naples on Thursday, Sarah was starting to (you may recognize the expression) 'become a pill', moaning about my pick of trying Amici Miei right above Via Chiaia. It was in a word for her, a revelation -- A) that her mother's choice (cough, gasp) could turn out to be a good one and B) that an 'old school' style of ristorante could impress her taste buds. We had the nicest time, hands down a delicious meal clearly prepared by someone who took his job seriously and we ended up chatting to a woman who must have been part of ownership. She was proud of her Trip Advisor rating and spoke of being mentioned in a recently published book by a young woman writing about life in Naples. A true RS experience the master would highly approve. I confirm it as a special, old world place with a comfortable, formal grace in ambience and style with Sinatra on in the background and fresh gerbera daisies at each table. I say keep it as a recommendation for those lucky enough to visit and experience glorious Napoli, delicioso for realsies. Thanks for the great touring and memories. Your extra touches of our pianist in Matera, boat ride to Amalfi Town and funiculare tickets in Naples were much appreciated and spot on to enhance our trip. Boy, those views from Castel St. Elmo are stupendous and surely all the evidence needed for one to recognize (not the least the physical) impressive glory of the former kingdom. Sorry resort towns Sorrento and Positano, Naples has so much more than just a pretty cliff drop, ravine-clinging homes or charming seaside vistas. I think Naples is often called gritty and intense. If it is gritty, it's the most beautiful gritty I've ever seen. The intensity of life, the chaotic driving of anything (and I mean ANYthing) with an engine and the flora and fauna are most gorgeously exuberant, prolific and wild. To my American mind Naples is fiercely Italian in the very best way and now, I better understand its residents are first and foremost Neapolitans."
