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Visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum

My wife and I will have 2 or 3 days in Naples and 3 days in Sorrento late Sept./early Oct. We want to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum. I wonder if it makes sense to make these stops when we are traveling (by train) with luggage between Naples and Sorrento. If not, is there any advantage of doing these as a day trip from Naples or rather from Sorrento? Also, should we get the Campania Arte Card?

Posted by
15582 posts

It won't make a lot of difference which city you use as a base to visit them. Because Pompeii is a little closer to Naples, and Herculaneum is between Pompeii and Naples, you save a little travel time on the Circumvesuviana train, but the time it takes you to get to the train station from your hotel could offset that difference.

If you don't have a lot of luggage, you could stop at Pompeii and store your things at the site, which is just a few meters from the train station. I don't think there's anywhere to leave it in Herculaneum, plus it's a 10-minute downhill walk from the station. Personally, I'd feel better with my stuff locked in my hotel room.

I would suggest seeing Herculaneum from Naples because it is a good bit closer. It's not as extensive as Pompeii, so you'll use less time there and can easily combine it with a visit to the archaeology museum in Naples (a must-see) and easy to get to from the train station by metro (exact directions in Rick's book).

For me, the main factor would be what else I wanted to do in each city. If there's a lot you want to see in Naples, save the ruins for your stay in Sorrento. But if you want to visit Capri, Ravello, Positano, and/or Amalfi, use your time in Naples to see the ruins.

Posted by
7295 posts

I agree that it's mostly a matter of travel style. Although the Circumvesuviana train has its comfort and crowding problems, it's a very simple way for independent travelers to see two really important sites. I also prefer to have my stuff in the hotel room, but zillions of people use the bag check at Pompeii Porta Marina entrance (train stop Pompeii Scavi ... )

The other issue is how you want to visit Pompeii. Some people come at opening time because it can be so hot and sun-baked. How long might you stay? The minimum is two hours, but many people prefer four, and some zealots stay all day. (There's a full snack bar at Pompeii, only vending machines at Herculaneum.) The three-day ticket actually includes three smaller sites that might interest the Encyclopedic traveler (like me - we enjoyed Villa Oplontis as well.) Don't get distracted by the debate over whether Herc or Pomp is "better".

Related to that, we enjoyed our five night in Sorrento, but don't count on that as a major historic destination. It's pretty and pleasant, but it has a lot in common with Lewes, Delaware, Virginia Beach, Provincetown MA, Brighton U.K., and so on. (Please put your home country in your profile so it shows with your screen-name.) Naples has a lot more historical importance, but Sorrento is more relaxing to stay in.

I gave up on the line for the Arte Card at the Naples train station TI office. And it's a little like the multi-site product in big American cities - too much pre-chosen and too many limitations. (OPINION) Alas, there is no more All-day SITA train/bus card, only individual trip tickets (bought mostly at newsstands) for your Circumvesuviana travel. How many days of travel do you get with the Arte card? Buying individual tickets isn't that hard.

Posted by
1944 posts

Definitely do Pompei from Naples. We took the regional train from Salerno in March, about 50 minutes, painless. And it was about 60 degrees, plenty warm. Here are a handful of tips/opinions for visiting the Pompei ruins:

1) Bring a couple bottles of water, then replenish at the snack bar. You're gonna go through it like...water. And we also brought a couple of panini and chips, having an alfresco lunch by one of the amphitheatres. Wonderful.
2) The primo entrance/exit is at Porta Marina, which is I believe close to the Pompei Scavi station, via Circumvesuviana.
3) Do homework in advance. Almost nothing is marked, and the brochures they give you when you enter are not great.
4) Use the Rick Steves Pompei podcast if possible--it's like you are in the show! Very cool.
5) Comfortable shoes are a must. A lot of walking and--for those with ankle problems like me--uneven surfaces.
6) Late Sept/early Oct can still be hot. Plan it early morning, spend 4 hours or so, which for us covered about 80% of the ruins.

Whether you're a Pompei buff or not, these ruins are one-of-a-kind, stupendous, magnificent, every other adjective I can conjure up. But the enjoyment can certainly be tempered by crowds or heat. Visit early on a weekday if possible. There were few tourists on a Friday in mid-March and parts of the ruins were devoid of people and totally silent, just the wind blowing. So cool.

Posted by
15582 posts

When I was in Herculaneum and Pompeii (Feb. 2012), there were free booklets at the entrance (out of them in English at Herculaneum). I took one in Pompeii (Brief Guide to Pompeii). It's about 4" x 6". the same explanations as the audio guide. Each "stop" is numbered. The booklet has a page with a color photo for each stop and 1 or 2 paragraphs of information. That plus Rick's audio tour were all I needed.

I spent most of a day there in full sun, warm but not hot. It's worth the long walk to the villa dei misteri I didn't take the long walk to the amphitheater (been to others that are more impressive).

Posted by
247 posts

My personal travel style is to settle into my hotel comfortably for a day before going out sightseeing. So if it was my trip I'd probably go ahead to Sorrento and visit the sites the following day.

Like others mentioned it really depends on your travel style and goals. If you prefer to check your bags, you will gain the benefit of streamlining your progression south by train by a little bit, but may feel frazzled trying to do the "check bags" and "uncheck bags" dance.

On the other hand, by checking into your hotel and visiting the next day you will have the benefit of visiting at the time of day that is convenient to you without feeling rushed , and you'll be able to focusing on one activity each day (travel one day, sightseeing the next).