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Visiting Caserta between Naples and Rome

In September, we're flying to Naples for two nights there, then to Massa Lubrense for five days with day trips to Sorrento, Capri, AC.

From there, we're working our way back to Rome, where we will fly home. But we've seen enough of Rome that we don't need to sightsee there, we are more interested in branching out to see some smaller towns along the way, starting with Caserta.

I'm not finding a lot of topics here on Caserta, I hope someone who has been there can give me some intel.

It's looking like you can rent bikes to navigate around the gardens and what looks like a LONG promenade leading up to the palace. This looks like an awful lot of walking, and we're reaching the stage where our knees have taken a beating and don't hold up well to extensive walking (which is challenge anywhere in Italy!)

Has anyone rented bikes here?

Has anyone spent the night here?

Any suggestions on other places to see that are easily accessible without renting a car? (We prefer the train, but will take private transfer if need be.)

Posted by
8423 posts

You don't mention if you've already been to Tivoli.

Posted by
8668 posts

I was in Caserta last year for two nights and planned to go again last month for a night, but a train strike messed up that plan. Here’s what I wrote. To save your knees, do the golf cart ride. He took us out to the end of the expansive gardens and also routed us through some of the forested sections along the side that have sculptures there, too.

The faster Trenitalia Frecciarossa trains will get you from Caserta to Roma Termini in one hour.

A 1-hr train to - Caserta
Thank you so much, Marcia, for mentioning Caserta in the forum early this year! As I departed the train, I was standing in front of the expansive Reggia di Caserta, the royal palace of the Naples Kings.
I chose an early entry time to be able to see the gorgeous Court Theatre. Everyone had to stand in a line, and they brought us in by small groups. The entire group was Italian except for a few Asian ladies. The moderator asked them “speak English?” to hand them a laminated translated sheet. When I stood up and said I speak English, he was suddenly very excited when he found out I was from the US. The conversation was all in Italian, but I could catch that he has a relative who works at Boeing in the Pacific NW.

Royal Apartments - each room had spectacular ceilings, a variety of huge chandeliers, and beautiful furnishings. It was all very grand & lovely to enjoy.

The garden was massive! I walked some of the long garden the first day. There’s also the option of shuttle buses, golf carts, or you can rent bikes.

Basilico Pizzeria Neopolitano - an amazing Regina pizza! Buffalo mozzarella cheese, fresh, sweet Marzano tomato sauce, olive oil and fresh basil. An absolutely perfect crust - wow!

My little Royal Gardens Hotel (more like a B&B) gave me a voucher for breakfast at a nearby bar - the typical spot to stop in for a morning espresso. As I walked around the corner there was the bar, packed! Oh no, I know what’s coming. Everyone standing up at a noisy counter where the tiny ceramic cups & saucers of espresso are served in quick succession. And a line? Ha! Okay, jump in for my first trial by fire - LOL! I received an excellent espresso & cornetto by the way! She gave me a break and motioned she would bring it to me at an outdoor table.
With Sunday morning open, I can only say I was led because checking one night at home to see on Google if there’s an “English-speaking Christian church in Caserta” is still unthinkable to me! Well, turns out there IS one here because of the US Naval base in Naples. What a fantastic worship service, and they live “making you immediately feel like family” - so glad I could worship with them this morning!

Golf cart for €10 gave much more than a ride to the top of the fountains that are at the far end of the garden two miles away. It also drove us into the side forests on paths where there were occasional sculptures even there!
Definitely go out to the end! The views and photo opportunities along the stops were beautiful! I brought my small sketchpad along, too.

I stayed at the little Royal Gardens Hotel that has a few rooms. The host was very nice! It’s on the side street that borders the palace, so my little balcony opened to that view of a tiny garden & the palace. There’s a lot of activity, so don’t expect a serene, quiet balcony scene.

Posted by
8668 posts

For the Tivoli idea, I was just there a few weeks ago. Absolutely lovely! But, it will be harder on your knees if slopes or steps are a problem for you.

Posted by
227 posts

Happy planning — sounds like a fantastic trip! Let me know if you want
ideas for food or wine tours along the way.

Thank you SO much - great suggestions, I'm going to check into all those. Actually I love riding bikes (my knees are fine and happy with that) so that is a big plus in favor of Caserta. And I was hesitant about whether to stay a night or two, so I'm glad to hear you recommend it.

As for Caserta - and all these little towns along the way - it the language barrier a problem? I'm used to traveling in France where I speak enough French to get by (I can order food, buy train tickets, ask directions, and call a taxi in French so even in the smallest town I am okay.). In Italy, I've got nothing other than the basic "polite phrases" and I always hate feeling stupid because I can't communicate.

Posted by
227 posts

@ Jean: great review, and very helpful. Thank you!

@ Tim: no haven't been to Tivoli, I'll take a look

Posted by
8668 posts

For Caserta, be ready to use all of the Italian you know, but it will be fine. Practice these basic sentences in Italian.

I would like …whatever food, etc.
Where is ….,
We would like a reservation for dinner for two tonight.
We have a reservation for two nights.
What time is breakfast?
Excuse me, is it possible, thank you, please, etc.
Good morning, afternoon.

Buy your tickets ahead of time for Reggia Caserta, and they’re timed tickets for the palace.

Posted by
445 posts

We were in Caserta last month for 4 nights using it as a base. It was recommended by an Italian acquaintance.

The palace is amazing and very much worthwhile. It’s a very compact and walkable town with a good supply of restaurants and shops.

We stayed at ResidenzaLa Reggie Caserta which we found on booking.com. More of an Airbnb style. We were met on the street coming from the railway station by one of the owners, Gianpaolo Vestini, who helped us into the spotless apartment, showed us how everything worked and then walked us to the cafe’ nearby where we could exchange our vouchers for pastry and coffee for breakfasts. His English was much better than my Italian and communication was easy. He even helped us to the train station on our last day.

Our meager English sufficed most of the time and we found there usually was a younger person in the restaurants who could help. I wouldn’t hesitate to go to Caserta again. It was a real find.

Note, some of the interior shots from “Conclave” were filed at the palace.