Plan on staying 1 week in Viareggio. Any recommendations on what to do and are the beaches free.
Yes, see the other thread. Like almost all Italian beach strips, there are both free beaches and paid beach clubs.
But, do you want to carry your own chairs and umbrella?
A day trip to Pietrasanta - a charming town full of art:
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com/2024/07/pietrasanta.html
You can check Google maps and spot the free - Spiaggia libera - versus paid beaches easily. I believe the one on the southern end of town is adjacent to the preserve and is a favorite. There have been several threads about Viareggio lately with first hand accounts so I recommend a search of the board here for more background. Remember the last area by the water is always free.
In the area the previously mentioned Pietrasanta is nice. Highlights for tourists are Lucca is very close by train - ~15 minutes - and Pisa is also close ~25 min. If you want a little town with no tourism Sarzana is about 30 minutes away by train and Lerici and the southern side of La Spezia bay is easily reachable by bus from there as well.
Forte dei Marmi is a little up the coast if you're looking for a more upscale experience and their market day is supposed to be much more designer than in most areas. I think it is Wednesdays and Sundays during the summer but double check when it is if you're interested.
Have a great trip,
=Tod