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Vernazza or Riomaggiore in CT?

Considering a three night stay in CT in late September/early October 2021 in either Vernazza or Riomaggiore. Will arrive from Milan. Would love to hear pros and cons of each, and suggested places to stay. Also, last time we were in Italy we had a hard time finding non touristy restaurants, especially in Rome and Venice. A few times we accidentally ended up in places where frozen Italian food was just heated up in a microwave. Really want to make sure that doesn't happen again so any spectacular restaurant recommendations in CT would be great too. Thank you!

Posted by
1224 posts

Is neither an option? I vote for Manarola. If I HAD to choose between those you mention, Id choose Vernazza. We did not have great food experiences in the CT, so can't help you there (it is very touristy, so most food places are tourist-centered)

Posted by
4212 posts

I see Trattoria Billy in Manarola mentioned a lot. You might look on Chowhound for restaurant suggestions.
Otherwise, all the towns are minutes apart by train so I think choosing based on an accommodation you like is the way to go.

Posted by
3812 posts

After September 15, only 2 (or maybe 3) tourists out of 10 in the Cinque Terre will be Italian, none from other regions. It's a place for foreign tourists, but the villages are so tiny that locals and tourists must eat in the same places.

In June the Gambero Rosso guide asked some wine makers based in the Cinque Terre to list their favorite restaurants:
A Cantina de Mananan Corniglia (SP)
Cappun Magru Manarola (SP)
Ciak Monterosso al mare (SP)
Dau Cila Riomaggiore (SP)
Enoteca Internazionale Monterosso al mare (SP)
Gianni Franzi Vernazza (SP)
Miky Monterosso al mare (SP)
Rio Bistrot Riomaggiore (SP)
Da Sandro Vernazza (SP)
Locanda Tiabuscion Riomaggiore (SP)
Vulnetia Vernazza (SP)

I am quite surprised you can tell the difference between a badly cooked Italian meal and a microwaved Italian meal. I couldn't.

Posted by
3 posts

Many thanks for the input and the list of restaurants. I am hoping that there might be fewer tourists and large cruises inundating the area this fall...but maybe that is wishful thinking.

Posted by
15678 posts

Are Vernazza and Riomaggiore the only options? I'll recommend La Catina di Miky in Monterosso (our village of choice and we loved.) No idea what you call "non-touristy" as this one is on the main drag so is easily accessible to visitors and locals alike. It is, however, operated by a local, Manuel, and his American wife, Christine, and we ate VERY well there. Note that the website is only in Italian so use an online translator if you don't speak the language.

https://www.cantinadimiky.it

Posted by
261 posts

Had one of our fav meals ever sitting in the harbor in Vernazza at the Gianni Franzi reastaurant and also stayed with them...a lot of steps but the view was then spectacular and they'll lug your bags up & down- even took ours all the way to train station on depature day.

Posted by
117 posts

Blockquote
Rome and Venice. A few times we accidentally ended up in places where frozen Italian food was just heated up in a microwave.

Yikes!
Venice can be more difficult, but in Rome, I find it pretty easy to stumble on great food, we basically wander away from the busier streets in Rome when ready to eat and look for small, quiet hole in the wall place with a small number of tables with obvious locals eating there. Hasn't ever failed us. Sometimes it takes 10 minutes to stumble upon something, sometimes 45 minutes but the pursuit and the journey walking Rome's quiet cobbled back streets is half the experience.

Posted by
26829 posts

I haven't been to Venice recently, but I found getting a dinner-time table in Rome without a reservation sometimes challenging, even at non-fancy places. It has been explained here that people tend to reserve, and if the table is reserved for later in the evening, you probably will not be seated there even if the restaurant is empty when you arrive at 7 PM.

Posted by
32171 posts

I have the same comment as an earlier reply..... is "neither" an option?

While both towns are beautiful, there are a few issues. These are based on my previous experience and I don't know what conditions will be like in the post-pandemic world.

Vernazza tends to be dreadfully crowded at times, especially during the daytime, and it's not a very pleasant experience. Riomaggiore is pleasant but it's smaller so doesn't have the same range of accommodations or restaurants as larger towns. Both towns only have smaller private rooms, many of which don't provide breakfast.

My favourite of the five towns is Monterosso, which is the northern most town and the largest of the five. While it can also be crowded at times, it has an "old town" and a "new town" so tends to disperse crowds a bit better. It has a nice range of both hotels and private rooms and lots of good restaurants.

Posted by
15041 posts

First of all as things are going with the various virus strains and the slow vaccination progress, if I were you I would make plans for 2022 rather than 2021. The most optimistic forecast by the Italian government is to complete the vaccination program by the last quarter of 2021. That means that there will likely be restrictions to travel in September 2021. Not sure if that will make a pleasant travel experience.
As far as the towns are concerned, I wouldn’t lose sleep over which one to choose. You can easily go from one to the next in minutes by train.

Posted by
3812 posts

even if the restaurant is empty when you arrive at 7 PM.

At 7 PM the chef of an Italian restaurant is still insulting kids on the Internet while playing Fortnite. Or he's still sleeping in his Mom's house.

In any case, if they are ready to serve food at 7 PM, either it's not a proper restaurant or they don't clean the kitchen in the afternoon to "welcome" foreign tourists as soon as possible. Only, strictly speaking, foreign tourists.

Posted by
151 posts

I'll add my two cents and vote for Monterroso.
Stay in old village. By 7pm, all the tourists are gone and the village becomes very quiet.
There was this restaurant by the harbor... don't remember the name, overlooking the water.. best seafood in Italy..

BTW, that story about microwave food?? True..That happened to us in Florence.. we sat down and ordered Food... and I could hear the beeping and humming of the microwave machine in the background...Not good.. But that's what happens in the touristy places..

Posted by
1321 posts

oh Dario … you made me laugh out loud with that last post - however true it is …. 7 pm in Italy might be "happy hour" but not dinner hour.

Fall 2021 is way too optimistic.

Posted by
15678 posts

But,...but... the most of the Gambero Rosso guide restaurants listed above note a 7:00 or before opening time (on TripAdvisor.) 🤔

Posted by
32171 posts

Gene,

The restaurant by the harbour you were thinking of might be the Ristorante Belvedere - https://www.ristorante-belvedere.it/en/index.html . One of their specialties is the Amphora Belvedere which is an assortment of seafood served in a large earthenware pot. It's a large portion so is usually good for four people.

Posted by
30 posts

There is no bad choice. Manarola was my favorite town. Stayed in Vernazza once too, loved it.

Posted by
827 posts

I have to agree on "neither". Monterosso Old Town is very nice. Much more quiet. Easy access to the ferry as well. Many restaurant choices. For the view and dining, Hotel Porto Roca. But mind you, it is expensive. I agree that the Belvedere is a good choice for dining, as well as L'Osteria Di Galleno. Hotel Pasquale has great rooms that look out on the water. Staff is friendly - they even did my laundry! Only downside to Old Town is that it is a small trek to the train station.