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Venice update

I left Venice most reluctantly yesterday morning after 3 nights.

I flew into Marco Polo for the first time. I was on the left side, the right side had a view of the island as we landed, I saw the scenic outline of Mestre's industrial skyline. There's a booth with 2-3 agents at the entrance to the terminal selling all the transportation tickets. I was somehow first in, and picked up my Alilaguna ticket and my 72 hour vaporetto card in about 90 seconds. Huge line for the toilets, so if you're flying in, maybe hit the head before landing. My bag made it on the plane (short connection at FCO) and came off the carousel quickly. I followed the signs to the water transport - in and out and up to departures and in and out (to avoid construction), but the glass-enclosed corridor from the terminal to the water is complete and only takes a few minutes on the moving walkway (no carts allowed). I probably just broke even on the vaporetto pass, but it's worth it for the convenience. There are few stops that sell tickets.

On Saturday morning, I took the 10.00 am Free Walking Tour and it was one of the best tours I've been on. The guide, Aida, was informative and engaging at the same time, full of interesting info and fun facts, explained clearly how Venice was built from the first settlements, and had lots of practical tips about getting around and sightseeing. The tour including a rest stop with toilets at what is considered about the best gelateria in Venice. It was too cold for gelato, but their hot chocolate was as good as Angelina's in Paris and only 2.50 euros including a seat. The tour ended just a couple minutes' walk from Campo Santa Margherita, so I went to Margaret du Champ for lunch and was not disappointed - the pizza was one of the best I've ever had.

There was very little Carnevale in evidence on this first weekend, and I'm comparing it with the first weekend of some 3 and 6 years ago, when there were people in dressed in elaborate hand-made costumes and masks, and street entertainment.

Basilica San Marco is only open from 2-4 pm! The museum is open all day and offers views of some of the mosaics. You can go to the daily mass after the 4 pm closure (maybe around 5 pm), and the mosaics are lit (I'm told), but of course you must sit through the mass and cannot wander around the church during or after.

Sunday afternoon, on the No. 2 vaporetto, packed tighter than a can of sardines, the inspectors came on and checked tickets. Beware! You must validate your ticket before getting on - even if you have a pass. Otherwise, there's a stiff fine.

Traveling solo, I have learned to chat with complete strangers. I went to the Chabad Friday night dinner in the Ghetto (mediocre food, excellent warm, welcoming atmosphere) where I met a woman about my age who has recently moved to Israel, and lives not far away . . . and we have mutual friends and similar interests so I will be in touch with her when I get home. On Sunday, the couple next to me at a cafe on one of the Cannareggio rios saw the Australia insignia on my jacket (a souvenir from a trip) and started a conversation because they're from Melbourne. At the end of our drinks, I mentioned that I was going to Rome and they recommended the Edward Hopper exhibit at the Vittorio Emmanuele Monument. I am excited at the prospect of seeing it, while dismayed at how I will ever fit it in - I'll have to drop something else, I fear.

Posted by
16748 posts

Great to hear from you, Chani, and I'm so glad you had such a good time in Venice!
Keep those reports coming... ✍️

Posted by
808 posts

Nice report, Chani. Keep 'em coming! We land in Venice three months from today. :-0

Posted by
278 posts

You said -I left Venice most reluctantly yesterday morning after 3 nights.

I am so glad that's because you liked it, despite the cold weather.

On our way end of April. We have 5 nights there, I think I am now glad I decided to spend that much time there.

Posted by
1226 posts

Would you be able to offer the name of the gelateria that served the delicious hot chocolate? This would be most appreciated!

Posted by
2252 posts

Thanks for your insight and good info, Chani. Glad to hear you enjoyed Venice. Isn't it fun to strike up conversations with complete strangers? It truly is a small world! You'll figure out how to fit in the exhibit along with everything else. I say there's always room for something you really want-either to do or to have (applies mostly to gelato!). Looking forward to reading more....

Posted by
15798 posts

ttmom - I'm always reluctant to leave Venice, it's my favorite city after Paris. I have a list of all the places I want to visit in Venice, and instead I end up just wandering the back rios and riding the vaporetto along the Grand Canal. I hope you will love it as much as I do.

Eric - Gelateria Nico. It's in the Dorsoduro, on the Giudecca Canal, very near the Zattere vaporetto stop.

I'm in Naples now and have written a little of my experiences in another thread.

Posted by
1226 posts

Thank you, Chani! I've had gelato from Nico's--including a delicious gianduiotto--and am planning to be back in Venice February 2018. I'll be sure to try their hot chocolate. Thanks again!