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Venice this week - my experience

I mentioned a while ago in another thread that I had plans to go to Venice this week, so I thought I'd report back on how it went.

As of Sunday evening, the day before our scheduled arrival, the tide forecast was looking not terrible, but a bit too uncertain and worrisome for our tastes. (I hope it doesn't sound too crass to say that we're on vacation to have a good time, not to slog around in dirty water while marvelling at the Venetian resilience.) So we abandoned our (nonrefundable but fortunately not too expensive) hotel reservation in the heart of Venice and booked a new room on the mainland, across from the Mestre train station, and we played each day by ear according to the tide and weather forecasts.

On Monday, we stayed most of the day in Ravenna and got to Mestre late. On Tuesday it was raining and the tide was a bit high, so we day-tripped to Verona. But yesterday and today were both dry, so we took the 12-minute train ride into Venice both days. From what I could see, the city is pretty much up and running - I spotted only a few businesses that were still closed from the flooding.

And from the little I saw of Mestre itself, it's not nearly as awful a place as it's sometimes made out to be. It's no Venice, but it's a pleasant enough Italian community in its own right, I thought.

Was it the ideal Venice vacation? I don't know, maybe not. But we saw a lot of what we wanted to see and had a great time. For everyone posting about wanting to visit Venice during high tide season but worried about flooding, I'd say staying in Mestre is at least an option to consider.

Posted by
3521 posts

thanks for sharing.

I know the news always paints the most desperate picture of events like what has been happening in Venice, but it did look pretty bad. But we have to remember that Venice is built to handle flooding (well, most kinds of flooding) it expects to get.

Posted by
7591 posts

I think what gets misinterpreted is the overall effect on Venice.

While this event was much worse than the many, many in the past...and future; it is still a temporary event, even within the day, so the impact is just the height of the water at the peak, and what clean-up may be needed. So by the time the "news" is spread, the event may for the most part be history.

My wife and I experienced high water on one trip. in the few days we were there, it inconvenienced one Morning, but the rest of the time was fine...and we still talk about the high water to this day, and my wife is reminded of it every time she pulls on the boots she bought that day, when she works in the yard.

Posted by
1443 posts

Sorry the conditions cut into your enjoyment (or did it?). Thanks for the feedback.

Posted by
533 posts

I should add that I don't mean to minimize the lasting damage from the extraordinary flooding. I'm sure there was plenty of it. But to the casual tourist, there's only a little evidence that anything out of the ordinary had happened over the last week.

Posted by
776 posts

May I inquire what app or website you were using to keep track of the tides ? Sounds useful and I thank you for sharing your experience.

Posted by
7209 posts

You didn't stay on Venice Island so that you could walk out your front door and be right smack dab where you wanted to be. You spent time (and money) on training INTO and then BACK from Venice Island every day. You weren't able to just pop back to your room for a rest, for a bathroom break, or a jacket or etc. You also came into Venice with the tide of tourists and you probably left with the tide of tourists. Indeed you weren't there during the 2 best times of the day...before the tourists and after the tourists. That's why people recommend staying in Venice and not trying to save a buck by staying in Mestre.

Posted by
1236 posts

Apps for Venice.
For vaporetto details, the locals use Che Bateo, and this links to real time vap information. Plug in your departure and arrival stop, and the app gives details. Perhaps not so important if you are riding the No 1 vap on the Grand Canal, but say getting from San Basilio to Certosa then it is handy.

“Water on the Venice Floor”, or maybe WVF. This app links to the survey map of Venice and the tide levels, showing in red places that are flooded.

Hi Tide Venice gives similar info, but not as detailed.

This web site gives the tidal forecast. Italian only, but google translate does it pretty well.
https://www.comune.venezia.it/content/centro-previsioni-e-segnalazioni-maree

The contour map of Venice, may be of passing interest, or may be really important. Gives the levels in cm of every street and campo in Venice.
http://smu.insula.it/index.php@option=com_content&view=article&id=114&Itemid=81.html

Posted by
533 posts

Photobearsam: The city of Venice issues a tide forecast for the next several days. I don't know how to copy the link on my tablet, but if you Google "comune venezia marea" (without quotes) you can find it. The same site also issues various apps with tide information, but we did not use those, so I can't report on their usefulness.

Tim: Ok, so we spent 2.70 (per person) and 24 minutes on the round trip train journey each day. For us, that was worth it for the peace of mind of knowing that at no point would we get caught in hip-deep water and a power outage. For others, maybe not. To each their own.

True, we missed the ability to go back to our hotel for a midday nap. That's one downside of staying off the island. But with some careful planning, if you really wanted to, you could even do the 2.70 train trip twice in one day. The trains run until late enough in the evening, if late-evening Venice is what you want to see.

As for crowds of tourists, there really weren't any. I don't know if it's because of the low season or because the acqua alta scared everyone else away, but nothing we saw was unpleasantly crowded. (We did check that there were no cruise ships in town the days we would be there - another thing that's easy to google. That probably had a lot to do with it.) Of course, main sights like the Rialto and St. Mark's square had tourists in them - but we're tourists too, so we can't really expect to get away from ALL the tourists. Even so, whenever we ventured off the main drag even a little - to the Frari church, Murano, or the Jewish Ghetto - we had the places nearly all to ourselves.

Posted by
1236 posts

Oh dear. Mestre vs Marghera vs Venice vs Giudecca vs Murano vs Certosa vs Sant Erasmo.
You can stay in any of these places and have a great experience.
The “arrive with the tourists” thing is not a given.
The 5:13 AM train from Venezia Mestre to Venezia SL takes nine minutes, about the same time as from the Giudecca stops to San Marco. Costs 1:35 euro.

Posted by
3112 posts

I suspect even the OP would agree that staying in Venice can maximize one's experience there (that was their original plan), but the OP has offered a reasonable alternative for those who may be nervous about visiting Venice at times of the year when the threat of alta acqua is high. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Posted by
533 posts

Yes, the original plan was to stay in Venice proper, although I can't definitively say that would have been preferable, since it's not what we ended up doing, so I can't really compare. But if it's a choice between staying in Mestre and skipping Venice altogether for fear of the acqua alta (as we also considered doing - spending those nights in Verona or Padua instead), I say stay in Mestre. Venice is a unique place on earth, and if you've never seen it and want to, you should.