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Venice, location, location, location - final decision

Last month I asked about whether it was worth adding a couple of days in Venice between arriving by cruise ship and flying from Marco Polo in May. Thanks for supporting the plan to stay.
I've compromised and decided to make it 3 days. I have been before (17 years ago) and don't plan on redoing Saint Mark's area. The third day, however, lets me do the Islands (with maybe some bird watching on the side).
I will be getting a multi day vaporetto pass. I arrive early Friday morning (8 a.m) from the cruise port and departing (most likely by bus) for a 12:30 pm flight to Toronto on Tuesday
People recommended hotels or pensiones which I looked at, but I still get more bang for my buck doing a short let apartment, so have short listed a number including with canal views. I initially searched in Dosodouro, Santa Croce and San Polo and now have to decide 'where', and I am torn. Apartments seem to be either on the 'tail end' of Dosodouro (some right along the shoreline facing Giudecca) or rather buried in the middle of the Santa/Croce 'lump'. Not sure whether there are benefits or detriments of either location. Dosodouro may mean either longer times on vaporettos or infrequent schedules and SC/SP definitely means more walking to vaporetto stops, and having to find traghetto crossings for some outings as they aren't close to vaporetto stops. I am not sure whether either is inconvenient for boats to the islands.
Would you like to chime in on one or the other being better for daily transport, transport to the island, atmosphere, or just plain old personal preference? Or tell me I'm over thinking it and just pick whatever pretty one I like?
Thanks.

Posted by
3112 posts

For trips to the islands, I find the vaporetti going around the train station end of the island much faster than those going around the Lido end, so I would choose the apartment most convenient to that routing. I went around the Lido end once and it seemed to take forever. The fastest way to the islands I've found is to walk to the Fondamente Nove stop and depart from there. It's a fairly long and circuitous walk from both the Santa Croce and Dorsoduro neighborhoods, but not that bad from the Rialto Bridge/San Marco Square area (e.g. 10 minute walk from Piazza Santa Maria Formosa).

Posted by
4573 posts

Thanks Frank. I appreciate that perspective. That is definitely something I was concerned about. I like being on the water, but with limited time, I would prefer to be able to add in the cemetery island or more birding time, than travelling longer, slower distances to get anywhere. There are one or two places that are nearer to Rialto Market, where I think I can get a traghetto and walk to the vaporetto stop mentioned.

Posted by
3109 posts

Have a look in the Canareggio area.
It's really close to the train station, and the boats out to the islands.
Plus it isn't usually full of tourists and big groups.
I've only stayed in 2 bedroom apartments there, so I don't personally know of any smaller ones.

Posted by
4573 posts

SJ, thanks. That had been my original plan if I had stayed 5 nights but most of what I plan to see is now south of there so I thought to move to be more central. The fly in the ointment seems to be the long transit to the islands. Need to check out the schedules, I guess.

Posted by
1223 posts

Download the app Che Bateo to your phone. The app links to the vaporetto timetables. Plug in your departure and destination vap stops, (for Dorsoduro and the northern islands, try San Basilio and Torcello) and it gives you vap routes, and changes.
That might help a bit.

On a map of Venice, draw a line from Piazle Roma to the San Basilio vap stop. Don’t stay much to the west of that line.

Our go-to apartment in Venice is Homeaway 6142339 near the Carmini in Dorsoduro.

Posted by
4573 posts

@Aussie, thanks for the tips. I'll download the app tomorrow. I have a few days off so trying to get these plans settled.
I don't think any considerations were west of that line, but that is a clear demarkation zone.
I tend to be an AirBnB regular, vut I did notice Ho eAway changed the practices I didn't like and is more of the same model. I have shortlisted a number. If I am willing to trade a canal view for a private garden, this recommendation looks great. I have a few marked on the rio dell'Avogaria, a little closer to San Basilio stop.

Posted by
1223 posts

When you do the islands, en route to Burano, get off at the Mazzorbo vap stop, which is the stop before Burano. It’s a nice walk over the bridge to Burano, about ten minutes through a vineyard and vegetable gardens.
Returning from Burano, the queue for the vap can be very long and you might not get on the first boat. But if you walk back to the Mazzorbo vap stop, they will always let you board. An advantage is that you will then get a spot on the rail of the vap with a view.

Calle Avogaria is a nice spot, an advantage being that there are no bridges to cross from the San Basilio vap stop. Walk up Calle Avogaria about fifty metres and you will find a wine shop, Agricola Borga. Mr Borga has no English and is a really pleasant bloke. Good wine at about 3.50 euros per litre.

Posted by
694 posts

We stayed right on the Zattere in Dorsoduro a few weeks ago and loved the location. It was quiet, residential, with a grocery store, plenty of restaurants and places to wander. It is only a few minutes to ride the vaporetto back to P. Roma and connect to a boat going to the islands, and just a 5-minute walk up to Accademia to pick up sights in that direction.

We loved the location and would choose to stay in that area again. Our apartment was a three-bedroom, so not what you would be looking for, but I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the neighborhood.

Posted by
2494 posts

DebVT

Could you share where you stayed? I am looking for a 3 bedroom in Venice and your location sounds ideal.

Posted by
15582 posts

Once, when their prices were reasonable, I stayed at La Calcina on Zattere. It's about a 5 minute walk to the Accademia bridge and vaporetto stop, or a 1 minute walk to the Zattere vaporetto stop. If you are farther along the Giudecca you'll be closer to San Spirito vaporetto. If you are right on the tip of the island, you'll be a couple minutes' walk from the Salute vaporetto, and an 8-10 minute walk to the Accademia bridge. In other words, you'll be a few minutes' walk to transportation and a bridge to the "other side." With the vaporetto pass, use it just to cross the Grand Canal.

I've only stayed in the Dorsoduro (4 visits) and love it. The best gelateria is Nico on Zattere

Posted by
4573 posts

Thanks for further input. I will admit that once my stay was shortened, Dosodouro seemed the best choice....for reasons mentioned....quiet, local and great proximity to various vaporetto stops. I will have more than a 22 inch bag 😊
@Chani, I looked at this place, price is still within my budget, but I get a lot more apartment for the same price. It has great appeal if one wants this traditional option, however, and the location seems perfect.
@Aussie, thanks for the Mazzorbo tip. I wanted to get there as I expect it offers some good birding. Unfortunately, I'll be going on a weekend so I understand the glass foundries are rarely working then. I did glass blowing 30 years ago, so wanted to see their techniques, so will cross my fingers someone will be blowing. If I can add on San Michelle, it would be a great day. At least by May daylight is longer.
@debVT, glad you had a great visit. If you would share your apartment details, I can at least co sidwr the immediate area. (I have been known to bookmark 3 bedrooms for cost and location, even if space is overkill😁).
I guess I better go figure out the travel times to Burano.
Thanks again.

Posted by
1223 posts

For bird watching, try Torcello. “Central” Torcello, the area around the Cathedral, is pretty busy, as is the path from the vap stop to the Cathedral.

But when you face the cathedral, walk around the left side and keep on walking. Cross a small bridge, and then a path leads out across the lagoon. It is quite deserted, and likely you will see birds.

Posted by
1223 posts

Travel times on a vap.
San Basilio to Mazzorbo

Catch the 5.2 vap at San Basilio at 8:19, arrive F.te Nove at 8:59.
Catch the No 12 vap towards Murano/Mazzorbo/Burano at 09:10, arrive Mazzorbo 09:44

Che Bateo is your friend. Every Venetian I know uses it.

Posted by
15582 posts

Maria, sorry for the misunderstanding. I was using the hotel merely as a reference point for distances, not knowing exactly where your rental was located :-)

Posted by
4573 posts

@aussie. Thanks for the birding tips. Definitely had Torchello on my list for that day.
Also for the vaporetto times. I jadn't gotten to that yesterday. 40min is quite an addition of time, but all doable.
@Chiani, my mistake, but the main takeaway was the walking distances. Much appreciated.

Posted by
3109 posts

https://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p840077?arrival=2020-05-12&departure=2020-05-15

Maria, if you are looking at bigger apartments with good value, we stayed here in 2015, (in May as well.)
It's just along the canal from the Guglie vaporetto stop, so good for getting to the airport, and there is another stop nearby to get to the islands from there without going all around Venice.
It's clean, old, and full of character.
There's a great terrace out back too.
I would have stayed there again, but it was already booked when we went again in 2017.
The price shown here is Canadian dollars.

Posted by
2299 posts

hey hey maria
don't know if you have found a place, here's a few you can check out. few years ago we stayed at:
cabadoer-veniceflat.it we stayed in the west studio. in the san polo area. the owners are great, let us store luggage before check in, plus very small elevator for two, washer. really like the area, frari church behind and could hear the church bells. email them about booking and maybe no fee charged. we paid cash euros back then and got a discount. it seems things have changed a bit since we stayed. this place books up fast, they are on airbnb also.
cross-pollinate.com look at the different places and where they are at, read the fine print so you're prepared when you arrive.
la laventina is in canareggio area. we loved it. they may not have calendar up for next year. great place, terrace outside, ground floor, on a canal, near train station shops restaurants cafes. found this place on booking.com (are you registered? then scroll down and contact host)
don't know how many people in your party, exact dates, or budget in euros. hope this helps you out looking for places. happy travels
aloha

Posted by
4573 posts

Thanks SJ and Princes pupule for more suggestions.
I spent hours today trying to short list the ones I had ear marked in the past month or so. Still can't decide. It's driving me nuts. I have one fave, but it is a 3 bedroom and part of me feels I should leave it for a family - and be prudent to something $200 cheaper, but I love all the books, antiques and character of the place. I need to sleep on it.

Posted by
4573 posts

Narrowed it down. Do I just toss a coin? All have canal views, ground or 1st floor. Several near rio dell Avogaria or San Barbara, or one right at the traghetto stop by Guggenheim scross from San Marco. So Grand Canal vs interior canals.

Posted by
1223 posts

For me, it would be a place close to San Barnaba. The bar Ai Artisti is great for breakfast, coffee and brioche taken al banco. The bar De Pugli right beside the vegetable barge for a drink later in the day. Punto supermarket just over the way in Campo Margherita, all the bars in Campo Margherita full of students in the evenings.
For a meal, La Bitta in Calle Lunga San Barnaba is good.
Choice of two vap stops, San Basilio and Ca’ Rezzonico, and only one or no bridges to cross.

We have spent something like five or six months in that part of Venice; it really works for us.

Posted by
11153 posts

We spent two weeks in a friend’s apartment in Cannaregio, convenient to islands as well as Grand Canal vaporettos. Venice is small so you are never far away from any site.

Posted by
4573 posts

@DebVT, thanks for the warm wishes and reminder of the trip report. Place looks lovely, but agree it is more than one person needs.
@Suki, if I wasn't rushed on the trip and not focused on sites further south, I agree Canneregio is a good location. I don't have fond memories of my first trip to Venice - too much walking and getting lost when we had things like banking, laundry and internet cafes (yes, that long ago) to find and deal with. This trip needs to be easy logistically.
@Aussie, I have made a decision. Not quite in your recommended neck of the woods, but close. Calle de la Masena near San Basillio stop and the Zattere. A little splurge as it has a private terrace/garden as well as canal views, but I think the easy access was the deciding factor. Still close to wander towards the restaurants near San Barnaba. I would rather do that with free hands, than luggage. Thanks again for your suggestions for travel, lodging and birding strategies. I appreciate it.

Posted by
15582 posts

Maria - are you sure about that? I just googled Calle de la Masena and it comes up only as a place at the opposite end (north/south) of Venice, in Canneregio!!

Posted by
4573 posts

@Chani, gotta love Google maps in Venice, LOL. There are 2, then. There is indeed one that leads off the Zattere promenade east of the Conad supermercado between the Language school and the gelato shop. Seems to be the new build on the left at the end of the calle.