I just wanted to comment on the personalities of Verenna, as Rick Steves' discussed.
As far as making arrangements for travel, Cristina at I Viaggi del Tivano is truly awesome. They are now located at the Varenna train station (south side of the building), having moved from the address listed in the book. Nelli, who drove us around is great, always the helpful taxi driver (same number as in the book). For lunch, we have always enjoyed Hotel Olivedo, as we feel like when you are greeted at home. We stayed in Fiumelatte, south of Verenna.