Hi all. We are doing a three-month road trip to/through Italy and France and just wanted to post a few tidbits that we've learned first-hand in the past two weeks. Started in Rome (where we picked up the car reserved via Auto France; the way to go if you're going to keep a car more than 3-4 weeks!) at the airport AFTER spending five days in Rome. Stop #1, Sorrento but via Amalfi Coast and, yep, it's a hairy drive but managed it fine, though my wife "squeaked" 29 times. Glad it's March, can't imagine it in July. Stayed three nights in Sorrento and LOVED it. Then on to Paestum and the Greek/Roman ruins that are are staggering. It was 68 degrees but we got chills. Spent five hours walking the temples and "town". Don't miss it if you get anywhere near Paestum. And the hotel we stayed at--steps away from the ruins-- was wonderful, with a gourmet dinner that was truly extraordinary. Really took us by surprise. (Tenuta Duca Marigliano Boutique Hotel.) Then on to Morano Calabro in the mountains, which was quieter and less touristy than Sorrento but very beautiful. The hotel was a creaky old estate completely restored and lovingly owned by "The Professer" and managed by Roman. (Hotel Villa San Domenico) We were the only guests in the 14-room mansion but enjoyed being spoiled. The Professor dozed watching tv as Roman served us local delicacies for dinner. Very funny. Also "hiked" up to the Norman castle overlooking the town. The view are jaw dropping. Had pizza at "Flying Pizza" a two-table place where four locals began singing and playing an accordian and insisted on us joining them...and their homemade wine. Then the pizza maker came around and played the accordian too. SUCH a fun, memorable experience! Then, long drive to to the ferry across to Messina, Sicily. It was a bit hairy finding the right lane to board (bought ticket weeks ago online, the only way to go) but we followed the flow and made it. Then three nights in Cefalu. LOVED this town. It was somewhat busy with tourists but not bad--I imagine May and June will get crazy, but this is why we started our trip March 1. Stayed at Victoria Palace right at the seaside and it was a good spot with a garage. (Important when driving everywhere. Parking is always an issue.) While in Cefalu we took a side trip by train to Palermo. Everything Rick and others say about Palermo is true. It is one wild and wonderful city, that's both exhausting and energizing. We walked 9 miles and saw enough, including the Capuchin Crypt which was chilling. After three nights in Cefalu we drove to our current spot, Erice. OMG, this is an eagle aerie or a fortress village perched up 2400 feet overlooking Trapani and the sea. A word about driving here: twisty! But the way to do it is to be sure you take "the back way" through Valderice! Do not come up the GPS shortest route; as our hotel manager (Elimo Hotel) says, it will save you two minutes but take one year off your life, scraping the side of your car. Anyway, we are now sitting in the super cozy fireside sitting room at the hotel with good wi-fi so I thought I'd dash off this update. If you are coming this way I hope you have as much fun as we've been enjoying. It's not a "vacation" traveling like this--it's work. Transition days--moving from one hotel to the next--are always a hassle and traffic in some of the little towns can be excruciatingly sphincter tightening but so far...so good. Will send another update when we have some spare time again...whenever that is. Ciao for now.
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We are now in Taormina, "White Lotus" land and I'll try to give highlights to update. We left Erice and twisted back down and made it to Paestum. This was a chill inducing day--touring the remains of the Greek & Roman ruins. We were very moved. Fantastic hotel too: Tenuta Duca Mariigliano! Their restaurant is over the top gourmet. I see I'm running out of room on this post---98% of max length. I'll sign off and try another later.