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Upcoming trip to Puglia

We are headed for Puglia next week, for a much-anticipated trip of about 3 weeks. I think our plan is fairly well nailed-down (at least as much as we ever do that), but I thought I'd toss up our trip plan in case anyone had any favorite, suggested places to see/do/eat in this popular and well-appreciated region.

Here's our trip framework (below), we fly in and out of Bari, and will have a car (even though I know there will be days when we just park it - having our own car will let us move at our own pace when we do move on, and make game-day decisions):

Starting in Bari, we will first make a short loop out to Vieste and the Gargano, then will loop back down towards Valle d'Itria, then roughly follow/parallel the coastline clockwise, all the way through and round the Salento, to the far southeast point (Santa Maria di Leuca), and back along the coast into Basilicata. After finishing in Matera, we'll head back to Bari and fly out. Here's the rough plan:

Bari (2 nights)
Vieste (3 nights)
Polignano a Mare (4 nights)
Lecce (3 nights)
Gagliano del Capo (2 nights)
Gallipoli (2 nights)
Taranto (1 night)
Matera (3 nights)

Worth noting: Most of these multiple-overnight locations are our base for the city itself - plus other places within striking distance. The region is dense with cute old towns, beautiful scenery and lovely beaches, and we plan to try and hit many more places than listed above. Our style for a trip like this is to generally not have a fixed, finalized plan for every day. Rather, we have a list of "menu items" for each day, including many which could be accessed from more than one of our bases. So each day, we pick from that day's "menu" options, based on how we are feeling, weather, and other conditions which may vary (including, did we visit that place yesterday or might we go there two days later from a different place). We like keeping our options open.

I've currently got a list of roughly 100 "places", which range from a city itself, to towers, beaches, caves, coves, castles, cathedrals, and all sorts of large and small oddities. All are mapped and assigned a one- to three "triangle" rating (as in the Rick Steves books) so we can make decisions each day based on priorities, what we are near, and how we are feeling.

Of course, we are not going to make it to over 100 places on this trip (and we are not crazy enough to try to). These are places that are just on the trip's "menu", not what we intend to eat: places we might build a daily plan around, or just stop at briefly, or skip entirely for any number of reasons.

I'd welcome any additional personal recommendations for places any of you particularly enjoyed. Extra points for any that are authentic, special, and yet uncrowded (or at least not mobbed). Same request goes for any favorite food places - we have a long list, but would welcome personal recommendations. I'll be adding to my lists though the upcoming weekend, so please feel free to suggest any you liked.

Thank you in advance for any you would like to suggest!

Posted by
16907 posts

Looks good.
Polignano a Mare for 4nights is quite a bit, unless you are interested in boat excursions.
However you can use it as a base to see Alberobello and Locorotondo (30 min away), which are next to each other) and also Ostuni (45 min away), on another trip.
Lecce is beautiful, but you might be able to do it in two nights (your choice).

Gallipoli is ok and you can visit in a couple of hours (the Gallipoli castle a must). In your shoes I would have preferred to stay in Otranto, which you have not included in your list but you should because it’s quaint and beautiful.. You can visit Gallipoli in a half day trip from either Lecce or Otranto (faster from Lecce, just 30 min). I visited it from Lecce. If you decide to visit from Lecce then keep the 3 nights in Lecce. You won’t regret it if you stay in Otranto, don’t miss it.

I’ve not had a chance to see Gagliano, but I think it’s in the interior a bit. Try to stay on the beautiful coast. There are some major cliff grottos nearby.

I haven’t been to Taranto in 40+ years. The best part, besides the beaches nearby, is the Taranto Vecchia (basically a small island between Mare Piccolo and Mar Grande). At the time it was really scary at night, but I was staying with a local Tarantino friend who was in the military service with me, so I felt reassured. I’m sure it’s all gentrified and touristy nowadays.

Posted by
7324 posts

I'd be inclined to reduce Vieste to two nights and use the extra night
in Bari for a day trip to Trani.

@tinac - Thanks for the suggestion. I am familiar with your very helpful blog, and have been all over it when planning this trip - great stuff! Trani does look lovely, it's on our menu for at least a stop on the way out to Vieste and/or when returning back to Polignano a Mare.

We need two full days for Vieste: the first day we are doing a scenic helicopter flight around the coast, out to the Tremiti islands and back in the morning (I had originally planned to overnight on Tremiti, but ultimately decided it was just too hard to make it work with the time we have, so decided to just do the round-trip flight for the coastal eye-candy). We will probably spend that afternoon in/around Vieste proper. Next day is Trabucchi Day: we are heading north along the coast in search of Trabucchi to visit, photo and possibly eat in...I am hoping to check out several along the Gargano coast and up maybe as far as Pescara. These contraptions fascinate me, so we will probably wander along that stretch of coastline all day to compare them.

I'm hoping to have a nice lunch and a splurge dinner in a couple of them that day - if you (or anyone) has a favorite Trabucco/Trabocco (seems to be spelled both ways) or just one to recommend, please do, I'm all ears.

Polignano a Mare for 4 nights is quite a bit, unless you are interested
in boat excursions. However you can use it as a base to see
Alberobello and Locorotondo (30 min away), which are next to each
other) and also Ostuni (45 min away), on another trip.

@Roberto - We will definitely be using Polignano as a base for trips beyond, probably including Alberobello and Locorotondo, possibly Ostuni too. Gallipoli also will be a base for short trips out-and-back, possibly Otranto. The coast all around there does look spectacular.

Taranto was a bit of a gamble and an outlier, as I've read lots of mixed reviews. But I wanted someplace to stop to break up the drive from Gallipoli to Matera, and after looking closely at Taranto (from a distance...), the old center (on the island) looks interesting, albeit scruffy and perhaps iffy at night. We have a hotel deep in the old center that looks quite pleasant, but we will definitely be careful after dark. From what I can tell, Taranto appears to not have been gentrified and touristy yet, and looks like it has retaining at least some of its scary "rough edges"...we shall see.

Thanks for the input so far, please continue with any more suggestions.

Posted by
8818 posts

David, I know you’ve read my trip reports of my two times in Puglia so not much more to share. Just adding a reply that I hope you have an amazing time in Puglia! I didn’t have a car there, so if you get a chance, go to Cisternino. It sounded lovely - just inconvenient with public transportation.

Posted by
2227 posts

Looking at the post and these comments with much interest for all the intel this is providing...

My trip is still 18 months out (March 2027, but we just got back from Florence/Rome/Salerno/Taormina journey in April, all by train.

Our next trip at this point includes a couple weeks basing in Rome, but then over to Apulia by train, where we've never been. Had been thinking about basing in Bari, but upon further review it seems that Lecce is far more interesting, even with the fact that we'll eventually have to fly out of Bari. Looks like a total 6 hours Rome/Lecce by train, with a change in Bari. Sounds fine to me--I've learned to love Italian trains of all kinds, from the Freccia to the regional. It's part of the journey.

The idea is to book a nice AirBnB near the Lecce train station. and that seems to be easier to do in Lecce than Bari. We'll be using public transportation, so I'd like to be close. Visits might be to Monopoli, Brindisi, Polignano a Mare, Taranto (my dad flew out of there during WWII) on the coast, and/or inland to Matera and Alberobello, although I heard the latter is becoming very touristy and not authentic anymore.

But if we had to stay in Lecce the whole 5 or 7 days, I'd want that to be cool as well. I am quite different in that I like to set up shop where I can easily walk for coffee or to a market or local restaurant, rather than prioritizing stuff to see...different strokes for different folks, right? And all that beautiful Baroque architecture! I have a feeling that with the right place in the right spot I could be very happy for a few days!

Posted by
1923 posts

Jay --- There are direct Trenitalia Frecciargento trains from Rome to Lecce that take only 6 hours --- no change in Bari. You could also fly into Brindisi instead of Bari if you are headed for Lecce.

Bari is a more convenient place to stay for getting to other places of interest in Puglia (and to Matera) by train or bus, but I'm still a fan of staying in Lecce --- we'll be staying in Lecce for the 2nd time soon, and for 9 nights.

Alberobello is still a really interesting place to visit, despite all the tourist shops. You'll see trulli dotting the countryside, but it is something else to see them all clustered together.

March is an excellent time to go!

Posted by
2227 posts

Jay --- There are direct Trenitalia Frecciargento trains from Rome to
Lecce that take only 6 hours --- no change in Bari. You could also fly
into Brindisi instead of Bari if you are headed for Lecce.

Bari is a more convenient place to stay for getting to other places of
interest in Puglia (and to Matera) by train or bus, but I'm still a
fan of staying in Lecce --- we'll be staying in Lecce for the 2nd time
soon, and for 9 nights.

Alberobello is still a really interesting place to visit, despite all
the tourist shops. You'll see trulli dotting the countryside, but it
is something else to see them all clustered together.

March is an excellent time to go!

I would imagine. Early April this year in Italy was all about 55-70 during day, 50-55 at night. Very moderate. Good traveling weather. Of course you cannot guarantee anything. I've been Rome in February where it was 60-70 every day, then I get down to Sorrento and it's blowing rain, in the 40's.

Avoiding driving as we have the other 3 trips. One less thing to worry about, and I can find cool stuff along the train line too. But we've been known to utilize local guides if it suits us. Good ones are pricey but really worth it. Through a tour company we used 15 years ago (Sicily Life), we had one this year in April for Mt. Etna in Sicily, and he was from a small village on the slopes of the mountain. He knew all the back roads, the short cuts...on a mountain! And on our way back, we drove through that village--barely can get an SUV through those rabbit-warren streets--and we didn't have the time (had to stay on schedule) but I would have liked to stop, walk around, have a caffe. But if you had a guide that could do just that.... I think that would be very cool.

I wonder if those locals appreciate it when tourists stop in. Small towns we've stopped in, reactions have run the gamut from open & friendly to reserved & cautious. Oh well, guess that's the world. And I'm sure I'll be able to experience some of that small-town feel in Lecce as well!

Posted by
8818 posts

@Jay, Lecce is a large city. It doesn’t feel “small town” even in the center.

Posted by
683 posts

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/gargano-peninsula-vieste/36074

Highly recommend having dinner at the farmhouse MASSERIA SAN SALVATORE outside Vieste. They roast meats (their goat is marvelous) and many other dishes and welcome you with such kindness. You can see their animals outside. It's hard to drive to but get good directions and you'll be fine..do not miss. I thought Vieste was one of the prettiest coastal towns in Puglia and elsewhere......

We are headed to the region next month, but alas, no time for Gargano this time....