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Umbria & Amalfi

My husband and I will by in Italy in mid-November for our second trip to the country. We hit the large cities last time but want to check a few boxes off our list this trip - mainly Umbria and Amalfi. We understand the weather will not be ideal but we are more than prepared to make the best of it and are trying to figure out which area to hit first, using Rome as the initial starting point. We have a week or so to play with and were originally thinking 3 in Amalfi and 4 in Umbria. Which makes the most sense to see first?

Things to consider - trying to go without renting a car using only trains, but will want to bop around in Umbria to what we can in a few days using one city as a homebase. Currently thinking this will be Orvieto but open to ideas and tips for navigating that region.

Posted by
11839 posts

We just spent 5 nights in Assisi and I think it is an excellent location for a few days in Umbria. It is more central to other places in Umbria than Orvieto. Assisi has excellent restaurants and good bus service and taxis in case of bad weather,

That said, Umbria via public transportation is definitely slow travel, so bear in mind you will not get everywhere. With 3 full days you could devote one to Assisi, one to Perugia, and take a tour with Gusto Wines on the third. Mark will get you out into the countryside.

I think my routing would be Rome to Assisi to Sorrento. Sorrento is the start of the Amalfi Coast and affords a good base but also more tourist services in what is a quiet time of the year.

Posted by
8045 posts

I agree that the town of Amalfi (is that what you meant?) is too small and poorly connected to spend three nights in off-season. Sorrento has excellent public transportation options. I would not sleep in Positano, either, off season. However, these places have visitors all year long.

You might do better to determine your personal interests, and then select a place to sleep. Just for examples: Pompeii, Herculaneum, Naples, Caserta, Capri, Positano, Paestum, cheese, wine, food. You also must consider the time needed to get back for your flight home. Many people are shocked to learn there is no train in Amalfi or Positano.

Have you considered the closer Cinque Terre instead of Amalfi? They're not the same, but your time is limited.

Posted by
11 posts

I probably should have specified AC area - we are looking in Sorrento as a home base, so happy we seem to be barking up the right tree! Goals for AC are Pompeii and the Path of the Gods. Otherwise we are content to bop on the buses from village to village for a day or so. We did Cinque Terre last time and loved it so hoping for a somewhat similar experience.

Will look into those other towns in Umbria though, as you named quite a few of the items we wanted to do (including the Gusto wine tour!). If there's anything else on the must do's - sent them over :)

Posted by
11839 posts

I always wanted to do the Path of the Gods but it never worked out for us. It is hard to get to by bus in a timely manner unless you stay somewhere like Atrani. So you may have to modify your expectation or consider renting a car or using a private driver for that. Also, November weather may not cooperate. Just to be aware.

Posted by
5287 posts

I'd actually strongly consider doing one or the other. It just seems rushed. How much time do you have in total once you add transit time in and out of Rome, plus travel time between regions? Either one could be great--I think of Umbria as a fall type of destination, and in November, you would avoid the crowds on the AC (though you could get bad weather).

Posted by
2124 posts

I probably should have specified AC area - we are looking in Sorrento
as a home base, so happy we seem to be barking up the right tree!
Goals for AC are Pompeii and the Path of the Gods. Otherwise we are
content to bop on the buses from village to village for a day or so.
We did Cinque Terre last time and loved it so hoping for a somewhat
similar experience. Will look into those other towns in Umbria though,
as you named quite a few of the items we wanted to do (including the
Gusto wine tour!). If there's anything else on the must do's - sent
them over :)

Katie--

Have you mentioned if you are flying in and out of Rome? Or would you consider flying out of Naples? Or, have you booked your air yet? Inquiring minds wanna know...

Sorrento's a good base, period, for Pompei (45 min by Circumvesuviana train), and I guess Path Of The Gods (45 min bus to Positano, don't know how to get that last little bit to Nocelle and the Path). I'd advise staying within walking distance of the station (bus/train are together), towards the old town and Piazza Tasso.

Problem is not only for Umbria but especially for the A.C., you don't just 'bop' anywhere by bus or train. Advantage is that it's off-season--more room on A.C. SITA buses--but it just takes awhile to get from Point A to Points B or C. You'll have to plan well to be efficient. Know the schedule, get an early start. Sorrento's a great place to return to in the late afternoon, take a nap than stroll around for a great dinner at any number of solid restaurants.

Posted by
11 posts

Good points all around - now thinking we will start in Umbria and work our way back down.

Our flight has been booked in and out of Rome where we are also meeting some family (our total trip is more like 11 days) so Rome will be the starting point. We definitely over did our last trip hitting Rome, Florence, Sienna / Tuscany, Venice and Cinque Terre all in one so tempering our expectations overall for something a little calmer. That may mean less stops and more wine and that's A-OK!

Posted by
4105 posts

Rather than starting your stay in Rome, save it for last, much more efficient since you fly out of there.

On arrival:
Train Rome-Assisi. 2-3 hrs.
3 nites.

Train Assisi-Sorrento. 4-5 1/2 H.
4 Nites.

Train Sorrento-Rome. 2 1/2-3 H
3 nites.

Posted by
5301 posts

Katie,
I agree with Valadelphia.
Since you only have a week, I'd suggest choosing one region, otherwise your trip will be very rushed.

I'm in Umbria now, and it definitely takes more time than you'd think to travel via public transportation.

Since you'd be starting in Rome, you could take the train to Orvieto, spend a couple of nights there, then travel to Assisi for another few nights.
Once in Assisi, there are many places you could visit via train or bus, such as; Perugia, Spello, and Montefalco.

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
11 posts

Thanks everyone! We were really torn on what to do but here's what we ended up with:

Rome - 1 night (we have my family with us that night and they leave the next day on a cruise)
Assisi - 4 nights
Sorrento - 3 nights
Rome - 2 nights (picking up off cruise + time to show them around Rome)

Appreciate everyone's help - nothing like a little last-minute planning to get me all excited to go back to Italy!

Posted by
8045 posts

Have you researched the location of the cruise port? I can't understand why anyone without a car would pick up someone at Civitavecchia? If they are elderly parents you should spring for a car service.

Posted by
11 posts

Hi Tim!

I should have been more clear - we will meet my family at Termini - they will take the train to and from themselves. I more meant why were coming back to Rome earlier rather than spending more time in Amalfi, etc.