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Two Weeks in Sicily

My wife and I will be spending 2 weeks in Sicily in early October, 2020. We are very young at heart and adventures, and in our 70’s. We are looking for suggestions for an itinerary, best method of transportation, and lodging recommendations. We do not enjoy fancy places, just a simple, clean, and centrally located lodging experience. We especially enjoy staying in the historic parts of the walled cities. Our priorities on the trip will be seeing the key historic and archeological sites. We are also interested in recommendations for local guides at the sites.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

John Kraushaar

Posted by
28417 posts

I'm not interested in the archaeological sites, so my time allocation wouldn't work for you. Two areas not to miss, however, are Palermo (plus cathedral at Monreale) and Ortygia, the medieval section of Siracusa. Not toofar from Siracusa are some Baroque towns worth visiting: Ragusa, Noto, Modica and Scicli.

For the rest, it's a matter of how much time you have available after seeing as many of the classical sites as you're interested in. Rick has a new guidebook to Sicily. I'm sure it will help you a lot. Understand, however, that you will not be able to see everything in 2 weeks. I had 17-18 days, didn't go to Agrigento/Selinunte/Segesta, and still ran out of time.

You will be able to get around Sicily more efficiently with a rental car. Depending on trains (somewhat limited) and buses is possible, but it will slow you down considerably when it's time to travel from town to town. (Do not try to drive in Palermo.)

Posted by
5561 posts

I spent 2 weeks just on the east and southeast of Sicily. I encourage you to look at pictures of Ragusa old town, which is lovely by day and delightful to wander after dark. If you drive, there is free parking at the base of the old town. Our hotel hosts picked us up there to take us up to the property.

Posted by
15798 posts

2 weeks sounds like a lot, until you start planning, then you find you have to make hard choices! I focused on the ancient sites. I go at a somewhat slower pace than most. I enjoy driving and dislike changing hotels. Here's what I did.

Palermo 2N. Arrived early evening. I spent about 1/2 day at Monreale, the rest in Palermo. On my last day, I took a mid-afternoon train to Cefalu 2N. I returned to Palermo in the morning, picked up some provisions at the market and rented a car. I based in Castellammare del Golfo 3N, went to the Greek temples at Segesta and Selinunte, and visited the coastal towns from Marsala del Vallo to Erice. I spent a day at the temples and archaeology museum in Agrigento and continued to Piazza Armarino 1N. I visited the Villa Romana del Casale and drove to Ortigia 6N (the ancient part of Syracuse). On my last morning I returned the car at the Catania airport.

In retrospect I wouldn't change my itinerary. Ortigia was a delight and I found it easy to drive in and out of to visit other places. I used a day to go to Mt Etna and even though the coast was sunny, Etna was shrouded in fog and that was my only bad/wasted day. I developed a bad knee early in the trip, so I skipped a day trip to Taormina. I had planned to visit Ragusa and Noto, ended up skipping them for more time in Ortigia and not straining my knee. I did drive into Catania to see the WWII museum and it was worth it, even though there was really bad traffic in the city.

Things I learned . . . The small towns close down on Sundays. GPS is good (I didn't have it and got lost more than once). English is not as widely spoken as on the mainland. In Castellammare the middle-aged owners relied on their 16-year old daughter to communicate between us. In Piazza Armarina, I got totally lost and managed to find my B&B thanks to a woman who spoke French. I guess google translate would have worked by that was before I had a smart phone. People were very friendly and willing to go out of their way to help.