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Tuscany / Umbria May of 2019

We are flying into Rome and spending two nights at the Beehive Hostel and then two nights, again prior to our return flight out. We would like to spend time in an agriturismo or apartment/home where we can base for a week and see most of the following: Montepulciano, Orvieto, Montalcino, Siena, Bagno Vignoni or nature preserves that might be a good visit. We like to hike and this is truly a vacation. We have 13 days (outside of the nights in Rome) and are thinking of taking the train from Rome to Orvieto and then renting a car for the rest of the trip. Is there a better area to base from to be able to see this beautiful area. I have a Tuscany/Umbria map, but would love to hear thoughts on where to base for a week and then maybe some overnights. Thank you. Deb

Posted by
114 posts

What kind of village would you like to stay in? Small and sleepy? Lots of restaurants and shops? I think Orvieto is a good location to see the towns you mentioned. This past May we opted for Monticchiello which was exceptionally quiet but still vibrant enough with a couple of restaurants and a wine bar. Monticchiello turned out to be our favorite village, although we visited the towns you mentioned
and would have enjoyed staying in them all. Our voyage covered Siena to Assisi so we put ourself roughly in the middle. We were about 15 minutes from Pienza and Montepulciano. All the towns were great so I'd just choose an apartment or agriturismo that catches your eye.

Posted by
4 posts

Hi Celfan, sleepy but with a nice fresh market For cooking at home and a few authentic restaurants would be great. Thank you for your suggestions! Did you rent a car and if so, where did you pick it up?

Posted by
15798 posts

There may be very limited options for car rental in Orvieto. You may have to pick up the car as you leave Rome

Posted by
2213 posts

Deb,
Sounds like a great trip! When we were planning our trip, I found some general areas and then used Google maps to determine driving time. Florence was high on our list and we found a great agriturismo near Greve, ~20km south of Florence.

I'd look for something between Siena in the north and Bagno Vignoni in the south. How much of Umbria do you plan to visit? Assisi is 1 1/2 hours by car from Bagno.

It's a tossup between staying in a town or at an agriturismo. We chose the agriturismo Castello di Verrazzano, which is a wonderful winery. The food and wine were excellent! We liked being in the countryside. It was convenient with the car, we parked next to the guest house. You might want to look for something similar further south, in the area you've mentioned. I can also understand the charm of staying in a village, being able to get up early and walk the streets and pick up breakfast.

We rented our car at Rome FCO airport, which worked out great. It is on the outskirts of Rome, so we didn't have to drive in the city. I understand there are convenient places in Rome to rent that don't require being in the heart of the city as well. If you could make arrangements for the car you want (we used Hertz), I think Orvieto would work.

I found driving in Italy a piece of cake, nothing like the horror stories you can find here and elsewhere. You should have no problem if you are a defensive but confident driver. Study up and make sure to get your IDP. ZTLs are well marked. That, along with common sense (inside a city wall will probably be ZTL) will keep you out of trouble. Be courteous and don't speed.

Take your time. Don't try to do too much, rather live the moment.

Posted by
4 posts

DougMac, thank you for sharing your experience! I am glad to hear you found driving not too crazy from Rome. We are a bit worried about it. I definitely feel we need a car if we want to do some day hikes in the area and be able to base in a small village. IDP and ZTL? Will check it out.
Great idea to check google maps for distances. I really want to see Siena, too.
I will check out the agriturismo you mentioned. We want to find a place to stay for at least 5 nights so your suggestions sound like a good place to look. Thank you for the links!

Posted by
11294 posts

IDP = International Driver's Permit. You are required to have this in Italy, and you carry it with your US license. Get it at AAA (you don't need to be a member). It's good for a year, but the year can start on any day you choose.

ZTL = Zona Traffico Limitato. Areas where cars are not allowed, unless they have special permits (and yours won't). More and more, these are enforced with cameras. If you stray into the ZTL, even a bit, you will get a ticket. If you get lost and enter three times in 10 minutes, you get three tickets. The tickets come in installments; first, there's a fee of about €45 from your rental car company, for turning over your information (you agree to this fee on your rental car agreement). Then, often months later, the actual ticket comes, for something like €100.

Just assume you CAN'T enter town centers with your car. As you approach a town, start looking for the parking lots; plan to park and walk in. Learn what the ZTL signage looks like (examples are online).