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Tuscany to Verona, Bologna, Ravenna

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My husband and I are heading to Italy in July to see Andrea Bocelli in Lajatico. This is our third trip to Italy. I know it is a hot, busy time of the year, but we have no choice. We want to see Bocelli. We are planning to fly in and out of Florence, spend 2 nights and then rent a car. We are then driving to Colle Val d'Elsa for 4 nights. Next, we will head to Verona to see the opera and do some Valpolicella/Amarone tasting. Ideally, we would like to stay in an agriturismo although we will have to figure out transportation to the opera. If we are in town, we prefer the historic section of the city. Any suggestions of agriturismos and wineries or a B and B in town? (200/225 Euros if possible) We are then heading to Bologna for 3 nights and will do day trips to Ferrara and Ravenna. Possibilities for Bologna? We have been to a parmesan cheese farm and an Acetaia farm when we stayed in Modena.

I would appreciate advice about this itinerary or suggestions of must see places, activities and restaurants. We have a car for almost the entire trip. Perhaps we could drop it off in Verona and then take the train. We do love smaller towns and restaurants, good food, wine tasting, history and art. Somewhere we would like to do a cooking class or food walk and a vineyard dinner. Maybe wishful thinking for 2 weeks.

This is what I have tentatively planned:

  1. Florence - 2 nights pick up car
  2. Colle Val d'Elsa 4 nights; Bocelli concert, San Gimignano, Volterra, Peccioli/Lajatico
  3. Verona 3 nights; opera, wine tasting, ???
  4. Bologna 3 nights; Ferrara, Ravenna, ???
  5. Florence-1 night return car

We have 1 more night to add. Suggestions? Perhaps, we could add 1 night to our Florence arrival although we have been to Florence and have seen most of the big sites. (Duomo, Giotti's Bell Tower, The David, Ufizzi, Museo du duomo) That said, they were all whirlwind tours. We did not really savour the city.

Sorry for so many details. Any comments or suggestions from those of you who have been there already would make my planning easier. :) Wanda

Posted by
11 posts

Lucky! Planning a trip about Bocelli sounds fantastic. Have you seen his Via Francigena pilgrimage video? If not, I highly recommend it.

When we walked through Colle Val d'Elsa, we were starving hungry and stopped at L'angolo di Sapia Osteria Wine bar in the old section of town. The restaurant was brand new, a young couple had started it. Of course, we arrived way to early to eat and not many other options available. The owner opened up for us and she found a selection of cold cuts for us. We each ordered a glass of wine, took one sip and then asked to leave the whole bottle. (Nardi Chianti Classico, Reserva) When dinner service began at 7:30, we were still there. I had the pork belly, Laura had a ravioli.

For Bologna, I'd recommend taking a taxi to the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca, then walking back into town (its downhill in that direction). You walk under the world's longest portico, through 666 arches.

Divertitevi e buona fortuna

Posted by
1832 posts

Sounds like a great trip. I might suggest returning the car to Florence when you are done with Tuscany as Verona and Bologna are easily accessed by train, but if you preplan parking it can be done.

Verona is a great walking town - the center is nearly traffic free and buildings with faded murals and painted details lurk in unlikely corners. There are cafes with outdoor seating everywhere in Verona whenever you decide to want to sit and/or spritz. Normally I wouldn't recommend a car for Verona but if you want to do wine tasting at the winery many of them are around the lakes and a car or other transportation is really required.

Obviously you'll see the Roman Arena for the oprera. The Roman Theater - across the river in the Veronetta which is worth exploring - includes the Archeological Museum which is small but also gives you access to the rambling remains of old religious sites there. If you like modern art check out the small Palazzo Maffei Casa Museo which mixes ancient and modern art, a palazzo and rooftop tour all into one place overlooking piazza Erbe and is underadvertised. I think Piazza Erbe (looking past the market stands) is one of the prettiest piazzas in Italy. Verona has the 'elegant decay' feeling with faded murals on medieval buildings that the Veneto does so well.

Al Grottino - Osteria e Sbecoleria is a great hole in the wall place off Piazza Erbe for a drink and cicchetti. They have a limited wine selection but all the ones I tried were great. Cafe Monte Baldo nearby also has great cicchetti and more serious food if you want that. Right near the cafe there is Arcivio a super small, super hip cocktail bar. There is no lack of good restaurants in Verona but read the menu carefully at the older places because the cuisine can be very "traditional". Nearby Osteria del Bugiardo is a slightly more serous place about wine. If you want a wine store this is the one famously featured in RS video: Oreste Cantina Dal Zovo.

It looks like my one BnB recommendation may have closed. The Veronetta - just across the river to the east is a real neighborhood area and is car accessible but a quick walk into the city center. You might look into places out there but I would stay north of Via Gaetano Trezza as the Via Venti Settembre is a really busy and less picturesque area.

Day trips from Verona by train at under an hour include Vicenza, Padua/ova, Brescia (my unexpected favorite), Mantua/ova, southern Lake Garda.

Hope that helps, have a great trip,
=Tod

Posted by
2127 posts

I would add the extra night to Florence so you can get over jetlag and savor Florence, which you said you haven't done because they were whirlwind tours.

In Verona, we enjoyed our stay at Hotel Giulietta e Romeo, which is in a very convenient location, very close to the Roman Arena. We walked everywhere. The breakfast buffet was delicious with lots to choose from. For sights in Verona, I highly recommend the art museum at Castelvecchio. We also took a wine tour from Verona (with Pagus Tours) to the Valpolicella wine region, and we enjoyed this immensely.

In Bologna we enjoyed staying at Casa Bertagni. This hotel is located in the university district so it's a very different ambiance. It's not filled with tourists; it's filled with students. Our room was huge, a delicious breakfast buffet, and the service was impeccable. The Basilica of Santo Stefano, a complex of seven churches, is outstanding, and was the highlight of our trip to Bologna. For restaurants in Bologna, we really enjoyed Ristorante Cesari and Trattoria Anna Marie.

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