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Tuscany in January - where to stay and how to travel

Hi - I am visiting Italy in January for the first time with my husband and son (17) - very excited. Unfortunately it is not a long trip and we have only 2 days to stop in Florence and then 3 days in the countryside. I would like to be able to visit some of the small towns like San Gimignano, Bagno Vignoni and Montepulciano. Knowing that the days will be cold and short, my questions are: i) are we better off staying in Siena as a base for 3 days - not so quiet as the country and still handy to see the area? ii) stay in an agriturismo just outside Siena (different experience but maybe too quiet?) iii) another town. Since our trip is so short, would you recommend us hiring a car to self drive or maybe splurge and go on a tour with someone who knows the area (we aren't usually 'tour' people). Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks Sarah

Posted by
2127 posts

Sarah,

Gosh, that's not a lot of time. This is only my opinion, but I vote for an agriturismo just outside Siena. As you mentioned, days will be short. Are you willing to hit the road early? Our agriturismo near Greve offered breakfast as an option. It was wonderful and we loved visiting with Marco and Isabella who cooked and served us. The problem was they didn't start serving until 8:00. That caused us to be late out the gate.

Try to find an agriturismo that offers breakfast as an option, or just pass for all but one day (if they serve wild boar salami and local cheese, splurge one day. I suggest spending one full day in Siena. I also suggest spending the morning in San Gimignano and the afternoon in Volterra. Finally, spend one day driving the Chiantigiana that will take you through the heart of Tuscany.

Take the train from Florence to Siena and rent a car there.

Posted by
15607 posts

Are you okay with driving on country roads in the dark? You're likely to have to rent and return the car in a city or an airport, and if you need automatic transmission, probably an airport to make sure there's one available. Most towns prohibit driving in the historic center (enforced strictly with cameras and very stiff fines). It can be easier to use buses that take you into the center, but that pretty much precludes an agriturismo. Also consider that if you aren't staying in a city, there may be very little to do - or places to eat - in the long evenings in the dead of winter. In a town like Siena, it's likely that locals will be out and about all evening. And you'll have bus lines to visit nearby towns.

Posted by
11376 posts

Tuscany can be lovely in winter but cold! Not Minnesota cold but bone chilling nonetheless. I mention this because we stayed in an agriturismo one February and while we had cold, clear days for touring, we could not stay warm “at home.” The 400 year old building was resistant to the modern electric radiators in each room. Only in front of the fireplace were we palatable warm. Had to sleep in layers of clothes.

I would stay in the city and be sure the hotel is not too quaint. Look at Hotel Pendini in Florence. We stayed there one January and it was half the price of high season and lovely. Ditto Siena, where you will want to find a place with parking. Take day trips to the countryside on your own, so rent a car as you leave Florence and keep it in Siena. Rick Steves’ guide book has plenty of info to guide your trips.

Posted by
2127 posts

Are you okay with driving on country roads in the dark?

This is a legitimate concern. It will be dark early. We often found ourselves driving in the dark, either returning from our day trips or from dinner in Greve. We live in the country and I found it no different from driving at night on country roads here at home, but consider your driver's comfort level. I had no problems, even driving on unfamiliar roads. Actually there were some charming vistas at night.

You can rent an automatic but manual transmissions (millennial anti-theft devices) are far more prevalent. I drive a six speed every day, so it was not a problem. Our Renault SUV was manual, but it has a nifty incline braking system that keeps it from rolling backwards while you let out the clutch.

Don't worry about ZTLs. They are well marked and easily avoided. Study up on the signage and rules of the road before you leave. There's tons of helpful information on the internet.

Posted by
15869 posts

Sarah, as has been suggested, I'd consider scrapping the stay in the countryside for a number of good reasons provided. Your restaurant/evening options on short, cold winter days are going to be more plentiful in a town versus a rural Tuscany agriturismo and won't have you driving around in the dark. Farm stays are better choices in warmer seasons.

With public transport available in Siena or Florence, you could skip car rental (definitely skip for your stay in Florence).

Posted by
4105 posts

While I love driving in Tuscany and have done so on several trips, I wouldn't do it in January.
Not only due to the fact that daylight hours are short, but a rental car is required to have both snow tires and chains from November 1st. These winding roads have a tendency to get icy.

I'd stay in Florence and use that as your base for the 5 nights. From here you could visit Siena by bus, which drops you at the top of town. Or take a short train ride to Pistoia,Bologna, or Lucca.

There are also some bus tours that would hit some of the towns you're interested in.

https://www.getyourguide.com/s/?q=florence&lc=l32&ct=104&searchSource=4

Or small group tours.

http://www.toursbyroberto.com

While Siena is smaller, the ability to do day trips is more restrictive than Florence.