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Tuscany (Volterra), CT & Lake Como - Questions on Where to Stay

We visited Italy for 18 nights in April 2010 and, like many of you, it is pulling our heartstrings to return. Now, I'm looking at going back to Lake Como & Tuscany, and visiting CT for the first time. Lake Como is what is bringing me back - the terrace room of Albergo Milano is calling to me! But my husband would like to go to Tuscany (can't fault that!) and we'd both like to see the CT. We stayed at the Agriturismo Marciano in Siena last time, but we loved Volterra and would like to stay in that area again - another agriturismo or possibly an apt. in the town. Pretty open for the CT, though would prefer to stay in a central town vs. one of the ones on the ends. Thinking 3 nights - too many? too few? We plan to do 3 nights in each. Thanks for the suggestions!

Posted by
11785 posts

Hi Lauren. Everyone goes back! When are you traveling? I think for the CT, Vernazza, Manarola or Riomaggiore are the best picks. Monterosso al Mare was too big to be quaint, and Corniglia has challenges such as a long uphill climb (or shuttle ride) from the train station as it is not near the water.

Posted by
74 posts

Thanks for the reply Laurel, it's sort of up in the air (literally - I'm watching airfare...corny joke I know) but I'm thinking late October. Looks like RS prefers Vernazza but I've read that is quite touristy, so we might look at the 2 other towns nearby. Not having much luck finding a really NEAT, different place to stay though. Especially w/ a balcony/terrace overlooking the water...

Posted by
249 posts

We liked Corniglia, even though it's high up-although we didn't stay overnight in CT. We were in a bar with 2-3 tables that was getting a big screen TV for the World Cup 5 years ago. It was a community event as every local came by to check on it. It's definitely quieter than Vernazza, and no beach time. We also stayed in the terrace room of Albergo Milano-yes! For Tuscany we were near Pienza @ Agriturismo Cretaiole-day trips to Montepulciano, Montalcino, Siena, and Civita Bagnoregio. Haven't been to Volterra to compare them. Three nights in CT would be nice, I think; most agriturismos require a week's stay.

Posted by
11785 posts

We stayed in Vernazza with some trepidation because of the touristy reputation. It was mid-October and it was fabulous! Busy during the days , especially since our 3 nights included Sat & Sun, but in the evenings it was quiet and the crowd never overwhelmed (which it may in summer). Views of the sea come at a price both in dollars and stairs, no matter which town. And three nights is perfect: time to hike some of the trail (all of it if you like) and take Rick's self-guided tour of each of the villages. Whether you stay in Vernazza or not, be sure to eat at Il Pirata. The food is fabulous, the Pirate Brothers entertaining. Everything is housemade and I recommend both breakfast and their limited seating dinners. Trains run late so it's easy to eat in any village and then head back "home."

Posted by
26 posts

Lauren, We're staying in Manarola in May. I've been to Vernazza once before. We are renting an apt. in the upper part of Manarola from http://www.arbaspaa.com/. Has a view and was renovated in 2009, supposedly. I couldn't find anything in Vernazza that was renovated and still reasonably priced, plus I too was concerned w/the increase in touristyness since our last visit in '01. PM me and I can let you know how it and the rental agency were after we return. We also considered renting from this agency: http://www.acasa5terre.it/ We're trying Aia Mattonata Relais outside of Siena, and staying at Albergo Milano, too. Great minds....

Posted by
799 posts

We actually prefer staying in Monterosso, because of the bigger variety of restaurants and cafes. We like Hotel Villa Steno, http://www.villasteno.com/en. It's kind of back behind the town, but due to it's slighter higher location, you get wonderful views of the town and the ocean from the balconies. The owners are very nice, as well. Depending on what you intend to see and do in Tuscany, Volterra may or may not be a good choice. It's a little less centrally located, but if you've already visited many of the towns near Siena, and want to visit other towns, then Volterra might work. Use google maps or viamichelin to figure out driving times from Volterra to other places that you might want to day-trip to.