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Tuscany 101 - and without a car

We are in the beginning stages of a probably 6-7 nite Tuscany trip, and have never been there. My husband is adamant that we will NOT be renting a car.
We are two active seniors, carry-on luggage only, not real foodies, but wine lovers. We visit Healdsburg and Sonoma a few times a year to pick up our wine club selections, so we appreciate good reds.

We will start our Italy trip with a return to Cannaregio in Venice, onto Tuscany, and conclude in Varenna, Lake Como, a favorite. (Two weeks total)

This is for May, 2025, so I have lots of planning time. We are intentionally avoiding the late April, 2025, Easter holidays.

I'm realizing the challenges of not having a car, but whatever. Maybe we will love the area so much that hubby will agree to a car next time.

I'm also reading that buses don't run on weekends and holidays, so beware.

Following the RS suggestions, my first draft:

3 nites Venice / Cannaregio area

6-7 nites Tuscany
Siena (Bus to Volterra, Roberto Day Tours and/or cooking class
Montalcino (day trips by bus to Montepulciano, Pienza, Val d.Orcia, & Brunello Wine bus)
Lucca ( Volterra &Pisa & .....)

3 nites Lake Como
1 nite -Sleep by Airport or maybe Como town? Probably fly out of Milan

This is a very rough first draft, and I don't know what I don't know. How should I distribute the Tuscany nites? Please be kind, and guide me in the right direction for further research . After Searching the Forum, I realize folks not having cars are in the minority.

What has worked for you all? I prefer small group shared tours for wine tasting, as I enjoy the energy in that activity. Any day tour companies that you recommend, along with wineries? Does Roberto's only run out of Siena? The private tours that I have seen so far are about $250+ per person a day, we might spring for that on one day, but not repeatedly.

Thanks for any and all input. Again, I don't know my own ignorance yet. Pls open my eyes (eye emoji ).

Posted by
7233 posts

I believe our forum member Jean has done Tuscany and Umbria without a car
Hopefully she will be along to advise!

I think the most difficult without a car will be the Val D’ Orcia segment
See if Roberto can help there

Posted by
5649 posts

Christine, thanks, some locations will be added, and some deleted . It will be interesting what the final draft will look like, I'll probably be finished by the time the airline schedule is up. Thx again for all your input.

Posted by
604 posts

Check out Ciao Florence tour offerings. Bigger size but nice prices. We are doing Siena plus Tuscan countryside this summer from Florence.

Posted by
2310 posts

Yes, in 15 trips that included Italy, the only time we rented a car was for four days on our second time in Tuscany. We learned the first time that there were only certain places that were easily accessible by public transportation. We did many day trips by bus on our first trip to Tuscany (staying in Montepulciano), but it was hard to go to more than one town a day. The bus schedules are primarily set up for school transportation (morning and evening). There are far fewer in the middle of the day (and on Sunday, as you mentioned). I also don't believe you have enough time to have three home bases in Tuscany: pick two.

Posted by
5649 posts

Janet, thx for the reality check. I'm so glad I have so much time to work through these issues. However, my husband won't budge on the no-car issue. I'll have to get creative, or - pay for the conveniences. Thanks again,

Posted by
5649 posts

Rob, thx, I looked at that company but most of the trips are from Florence. We love Florence, so are not spending time there this trip. Thanks for your help.

Posted by
1035 posts

Hi Pat,

My husband and I live in the San Francisco Bay Area and routinely travel to Sonoma, Napa, and Healdsburg. Wine tasting in Italy is a treat and I hope you enjoy. As others have said, Tuscany is best done with a car, however, you can travel without one, it just takes a bit more planning. If you have it in your budget, I would opt for a wine-oriented tour versus trying to navigate on public transportation.

A few options to consider:

  • Roberto has wine tour classes, they sell out early, we tried to schedule last May and he was fully booked
  • Private tour from Siena that is tailored to your tastes. We took that tour last May with Flo Bettini: https://gowithflotuscany.com/. She has worked with Roberto in the past. It was a wonderful day that took us to Montepulciano, Monticchiello and ended our day in the historic town of Pienza. We mixed wine tasting with historical sites. She could also have taken us to Chianti and to Castello di Brolio which is a century old winery that originated the Black Rooster designation. They have a tour and a restaurant. https://www.ricasoli.com/
  • Tuscan Wine School in Siena where you can taste wine in town and/or they also have winery tours. I have not tried this school, but intend to do so when I return to Tuscany. Here is the link: https://www.tuscanwineschool.com/.
Posted by
5649 posts

SandyO, how far in advance was Roberto's class booked up? I read in the RS Guide that he also does a dinner in his home, I believe? I'm sure we will be using his services. Those tours look perfect. Were they private or small group?
Your info is fantastic and I appreciate your energy. I'm so glad that I have time to research all the details.
Where did you base yourselves?
Thank again.

Posted by
389 posts

I've been to all those places without a car and no problem. The hassle and expense of having a car far outway the benefits IMO and experience.

Posted by
1035 posts

Hi Pat,

I tried to book it about 3 months in advance and it was full. I would reach out early in your planning if you really want to take his tours.

In 2018, based ourselves in Monte (20 km from Siena). We drove on that trip. Monte was a cool little town, grocery store and a wonderful restaurant with a chef that also hunts for truffles. We stayed in a B&B near by.

In 2023, based ourselves in Florence and took day trips. Decided on Florence because in 2018 spent time in Siena and only a day in Florence and we wanted to spend more time there.

Posted by
16133 posts

Many of the Tuscan destinations you mention are best done by car. If your husband does not want to rent one, then base yourself in Siena for all your visits in the province. All bus lines in the province lead to Siena.

Lucca and Volterra are a bigger challenge to visit from Siena. Volterra is best reached from Pontedera a large town on the Pisa-Florence rail line (but much closer to Pisa). Lucca is also easily reached from Pisa. Therefore, logistically, Pisa would be an excellent base to visit both Volterra and Lucca. Since I’m from Florence and Florentines and Pisans hate each other since the XIII century, I really find it hard to admit that Pisa would be the best base for your travels in western Tuscany.

Posted by
2201 posts

Roberto gave an unexpected but very sensible answer. It will take a little research and planning, but his idea seems very doable.

We had a car while in Tuscany and loved the ability to go down pig trails where bus or train service is very difficult or non-existent. However, I think you can carve out a wonderful experience in Tuscany without a car.

There'd be an added advantage. We took a commuter bus from Greve to Florence and back. We were the only non-regulars on the bus and the other passengers were very friendly and curious. You may have a similar nice experience.

I used to have to go to Travis AFB on business and would always run up to Healdsburg and Sonoma. We were members of the St. Francis winery and are still members of Nichelini winery in Helena.

To me, all of Tuscany is wonderful and not matter how you need to arrange your trip, you'll have a wonderful time.

Posted by
5107 posts

I just wanted to express that it makes good sense to do a wine-focused trip in Tuscany without a car. It would be duplicative to have a car and then pay for a driver to responsibly enjoy wine.
I have told many people to get the car--they want to meander through rural agricultural areas and be outdoors. OTOH, this situation is perfectly reasonable.
What I think you need to decide is if it makes sense to stay in a city where tours may be more convenient, or seek out a smaller village that you can easily get to and possibly pay more for tours, but worth it for the surroundings.

Posted by
5649 posts

Thanks for so much good info. I'm researching and modifying my thoughts..
Question- what is the Brunello Wine bus? When I Google it all I'm getting is ads for other wine trips.

I'm thinking I'll email Roberto Tours and ask what area he all covers. Is that him in the RS Siena video?

What if we stayed stayed mostly in Sienna- great point valadelphia about more tours to access from Siena-
Then maybe two nights in Lucca? Then onto Lake Como.

Roberto- thank you for that selfless advice. Is Lucca more charming than Pisa for a two night stay?

DougMac, I do think we will have a great time whatever we choose, and I think it's an area to which we will return. ( We belong to Patz & Hall, Banshee, Papapietro Perry, Marine Layer wineries in Healdsburg and Sonoma- there are just so many possibilities.)

Thanks to all for the priceless info!

Posted by
5107 posts

I am not as enamored with Lucca as everyone else is, but it is much smaller than Pisa of course so you may find it more charming, but more important, I have seen many vineyard tours mentioned in its vicinity, some quite easily reached by bus from the looks of it--so that could be promising!

Posted by
4871 posts

Just today at lunch I was leafing through Rick's Tuscany section in the Italy book and he lays out some possible scenarios for travel without a car, but layers them with caution. It won't be easy or simple.

Posted by
16133 posts

I would not stay overnight in Pisa even if my life depended on it.
But never ask a Florentine about his opinion of Pisa (or the Pisans). It would be a very biased one.
I've only visited Pisa (and Lucca) from Florence (it was only one hour from my house in Florence and I'd rather save the hotel money for something worthwhile).

It is better to have a dead family member at your home, than a Pisan knocking at your door (Florentine proverb)

Posted by
5649 posts

Roberto, this just adds more color to my trip planning. Thanks.