Trip report Stresa, Florence and Rome

DAY 4–

– 7:50 am train Stresa–Garibaldi station (Milan)-Florence

Didn’t go as planned! The Stresa train was 1 hour late, which meant I missed my connection at Garibaldi (Milan) and was 2 hours late into Florence which meant I missed my Brancacci tour…
The train trip actually went like this: Stresa–Garibaldi station–metro ride to Milan Central station–Florence. Quite the journey for a nervous solo traveler.
–check in the the Sanctuary Firenze Borgo Pinti convent for the next 4 nights
–Brancacci chapel (they kindly let me into the 3:30 opening) Fabulous!
–Basilica Santo Spirito (saw a massive wedding for what they said was a prominent Florence family)
–Santa Felicita church
–San Giorgio alla Costa church (closed–disappointing!)
–dinner Pitti Gola e Cantina (wonderful Montepulciano wine and lasagna/bread!)
–La Traviata opera at St. Mark’s English church (my 1st opera. It was a very intimate setting and a wonderful first opera experience)

** My lodging at the Sanctuary Firenze Borgo Pinti convent was great. Very simple rooms, simple breakfast, very little English spoken, clean, private bathroom, good location and great price. I would stay there again! I was proud and blessed that I muddled through my train travel episode! Florence is gorgeous.

Day 5–

–8:30 am reservation at the Bargello museum ( I found I loved sculptures!)
–Palazzo Davanzati (closed–disappointed)
–Galileo museum (great for a science nerd like me)
–lunch–’Ino Panni shop
–climbed Arnolfo Tower at Palazzo Vecchio (it was noon on Sunday while I was at the top. I heard church bells ringing all over the city. It was very cool)
–walked all the way up to Piazzale Michelangelo for the views and 5:30 pm Mass in Latin with Gregorian chant (loved the views and the 2 churches I visited. Mass was a great spiritual experience. I had forgotten most of the Latin I learned until 2nd grade!)
–dinner Enoteca Fuori Porta (delicious pulled pork, salad, roasted potatoes and a great Italian Pinot Noir)

** I’m really tired, but in a great way. Florence is so different from Stresa. My trip was going well!

DAY 6–

–9:00 am visit to the English cemetery overseen by Sister Julia Bolton Holloway. A delightful older nun. (I love cemeteries and photographing beautiful headstones. Such beautiful artwork that is lost in time)
–Basilica Santissima Annunziata church
–San Marco museum ( A real treat to visit! Beautiful frescoes painted by Fra Angelico)
–Santa Reparata museum Duomo
–inside of the Duomo
–Orsanmichele church (no longer on the Firenze card, so I skipped it–disappointing)
–Plan B, Ferragamo Shoe museum ( a fun Plan B!)
–San Salvatore Ognissanti church (to see Ghirlandaio’s Last Supper) Nope–painting can only be seen 2 times/month now and this wasn’t the day :(
–6:45 sunset Duomo Dome climb (463 steps, tough, but I made it, my legs were jelly. The sunset was absolutely gorgeous tonight!)
–dinner Trattoria Cesarino (Sea Bream (the whole fish, not a filet as I expected, but that’s another story!), salad, bread and free prosecco. Absolutely delicious and a bargain at 19.50 Euro)

** I am so so tired, but I can’t explain what a wonderful trip this has been. So many different experiences–spiritual, visual, cultural, food…

DAY 7–

–8:15 am reservation Accademia (just to see David, is that a sacrilege?)
–skipped my planned climb of the Duomo dome :(
–Duomo Baptistry museum
–not on the plan, but I have some extra time on my hands and no plans for lunch. Stopped at Enoteca Alessi for a lovely glass of Carmignano served with a piece of bruschetta. Fantastic idea :) Since I had “lunch” under my belt, why not dessert?? Gelato? Yes, Edouardo fit the bill–cherry, coconut and hazelnut, yum!
–Santa Maria Novella (WOW!)
–SMN Profumery
–Scuola del Cuoio (Leather school. An interesting stop)
–Basilica Santa Croce church (both the church & cloisters were phenomenal)
–Plan B back to the convent for a quick rest
–Plan B take out from Carpe Diem pizza (ham/basil/tomato/burrata cheese–tasty!)
–7:30 pm reservation Uffizi museum (a breathtaking setting for the beautiful art)
–repack and ready to leave Florence in the morning

** A very busy day! Loved David more than I thought I might. Wine, bruschetta and gelato for lunch-brilliant! I was surprised at how beautiful the Uffizi was. I LOVED Florence!

DAY 8–

–8:30 am train to Rome (On time and no problems. Waited over 30 minutes for a taxi to my lodging from Termini)
–11:30 am arrival to my Rome lodging–Domus Romana Sacerdotalis (mainly a priests lodging, but they do allow lay people with prior recommendation from their parish priest)
–Trevi fountain viewing (a madhouse)
–San Marcello al Corso church
–Sant’Ignazio di Loyola church
–Largo Argentina cat sanctuary ( a lovely retreat home for street cats, such an iconic setting)
–Sant’Andrea della Valle church
–St. Mary of Minerva church
–dinner at the Domus (soup, salad, simple main course, carrots, fruit, wine/water 15 Euro)
–laundry done at the Domus

** Another busy day. The churches just keep getting more visually beautiful. Every church is my “favorite”!
The Domus is a great lodging–great and helpful staff, clean, private bathroom, great bed, well located and serves 3 meals a day if you’d like. Breakfast is included. Two washers and dryers are also available to use. A perfect set up for my trip!

DAY 9–

–9:00 am Non-Catholic cemetery (another beautiful peaceful cemetery with such artistry)
–San Saba Basilica church (lovely “simple” church)
–lunch Augustarello (OMG is all I can say about the Carbonara, also green beans in tomato sauce, bread and white house wine. Paola provided wonderful service! Highly recommended)
–Plan B skipped Keyhole, Giardino, Janiculum Hill and Basilica Santa Cecelia (I’m pooped from walking)
–Basilica of Santa Maria Trastevere church
–the most gorgeous long walk back to the Domus along the river mostly

** Rome is beautiful, busy, chaotic drivers and overwhelming. There’s history at every turn. The churches on this trip have been otherworldly beautiful! How blessed am I?
Can I say I’m in love with Carbonara!!

DAY 10–

–9:30 am-12:45 pm Colosseum/Forum Gladiator’s Entrance tour (transportation strike today! I fretted about how to get to the Colosseum and just decided to walk the 55 minute walk. It was great)
–gelato for lunch again–3 scoops at Fatamorgana
–St. Cosma & Damian church
–Santa Maria Ara Coeli church (and its 123 steps. Saw another wedding)
–Gesu church
–Victor Emmanuel monument (walked up to the free 2nd level)
–Jewish Ghetto (I wanted to see some of the bronze sidewalk plaques commemorating houses where people lived who were removed and exported to Auschwitz and beyond)
–dinner Hosteria Grappolo d’oro ( I had the tasting menu–starter of: cod mousse/meatball/panzanello, Amatriciana pasta, lamb, roasted potatoes, cherry mousse and another beautiful house wine. OMG is all I can say! So full I could hardly walk back to the Domus!

DAY 10–

–9:30 am-12:45 pm Colosseum/Forum Gladiator’s Entrance tour (transportation strike today! I fretted about how to get to the Colosseum and just decided to walk the 55 minute walk. It was great)
–gelato for lunch again–3 scoops at Fatamorgana
–St. Cosma & Damian church
–Santa Maria Ara Coeli church (and its 123 steps. Saw another wedding)
–Gesu church
–Victor Emmanuel monument (walked up to the free 2nd level)
–Jewish Ghetto (I wanted to see some of the bronze sidewalk plaques commemorating houses where people lived who were removed and exported to Auschwitz and beyond)
–dinner Hosteria Grappolo d’oro ( I had the tasting menu–starter of: cod mousse/meatball/panzanello, Amatriciana pasta, lamb, roasted potatoes, cherry mousse and another beautiful house wine. OMG is all I can say! So full I could hardly walk back to the Domus!

** The food in Italy–how can I ever eat at home again and enjoy it??I must say that eating alone was one of my biggest fears. The servers were so kind in seating me in less awkward tables (not in the middle of rooms), were so attentive and gracious.I was almost comfortable.
The Walks of Italy Colosseum tour was really interesting. Our guide, Laura, an Art Historian, was a fantastic guide.
The Jewish Ghetto plaques were very moving and sad.

DAY 11–

–7:30 am St. Peter’s Dome climb (I took the elevator half way and walked the remaining 260+ steps. Phenomenal views from both the mezzanine level and the top)
–St. Peter’s church
–mailed postcards at the Vatican post office. Almost 10 Euro for 4 cards!)
–Domus to rest for an hour
–gelato lunch (again!) at L’Arena Del Gelato (delicious)
–St. Louis of the French church
–Pantheon (Had to invoke Plan B because it was sold out and I hadn’t gotten tics pre-trip)
–Plan B wander around the area. Sat at Piazza Navona and people watched.
–dinner Trattoria Lilli (Carbonara, salad, bread, house wine and tiramisu) OMG

** SP Dome climb–beautiful.
I was a bit disappointed I couldn’t see the Pantheon, but it was my fault.
I felt that I could eat Carbonara daily and not get tired of it. Trattoria Lilli was mouthwateringly good. I was seated by Patricia, the daughter of the original long gone owners. She was so kind and friendly.

DAY 12–

–9:30 am Mass at Basilica Santa Maria in Traspontina (how can there be so many amazing churches?)
–12 noon St. Peter’s Square to see the Pope prayying the Angelus and blessing
–Catacombs of Priscilla (fascinating)
–walked to the Quartiere Coppede area (fanciful architecture and frog fountain)
–5:00-7:00 pm reservation Borghese Gallery tour
–dinner at the Domus (soup, short ribs, salad, cauliflower and wine of course)
–Very excited about my day tomorrow–2 hour private tour of the Vatican!!

** A “light” day. I had a perfect spot to see Pope Francis and had goosebumps when I saw him! It was awesome.
The Catacombs were quite interesting to see. I loved the architecture of the Quartiere Coppede! So different from what I’ve mostly seen in Rome.
The Borghese was small but very nicely laid out. I enjoy art, but know nothing about it really.

DAY 13–

–6:00-8:00 am Keymaster tour of the Vatican (a once-in-a-lifetime-experience!)
–Basilica of Santa Pudenziana (beautiful mosaics)
–Basílica Santa Praxedes (more gorgeous mosaics)
–St. Maria Maggiore and loggia (massive church & special Mass for the celebration of the Armed Forces going on)
–lunch Giano (“Business lunch” 22 Euro--house made focaccia bread, wonderful salad with fresh Bluefin tuna, delectable tortellini filled with Nebrodi pork in a ricotta sauce, Pelligrini sparkling water and (drum roll…) my very first cappuccino coffee. Another OMG meal!
–Capuchin Crypts (eerily fascinating)
–Santa Maria della Vittoria church (St. Teresa in Ecstasy)

** WOW! What an amazing day. The Walks of Italy Keymaster tour was marvelous. Unlocking the doors and turning on the lights to various rooms was so cool. Seeing the Sistine Chapel with 19 other people (and the janitors sweeping the floor) left me speechless! After the tour I also saw the Transportation museum–so cool, the gardens and the Oceanic museum. I was going to go back after and look at some of the rooms I saw more in depth, but even at 8:30 am the incoming crowds were maddening! (There were general admittance people lining up outside the Vatican at 5:45 am for an 8 am entry!) I just didn’t want to ruin the euphoria of the last 2 hours by fighting to see the other museums. So, I ended on a high note and left.
I don’t drink coffee, ever. I’ve never had more than a taste and don’t like it. I told the server at Giano, he laughed and said just a moment, I think I can change that. He came back a few minutes later with a cup of cappuccino. I warily tasted it and proceeded to drink the whole cup. If coffee tasted like that here, I would drink it!
Tomorrow is the last full day of my Italy trip.

DAY 14–

–8:15 am Basilica Santi Quattro Coronati church & tour of the Gothic Hall
Plan B invoked. The bus was 50 minutes or so late. I didn’t arrive at the church until 9:30 am, & missed the Gothic Hall 9:00 am tour. So, I just visited the lovely church.
–San Clemente church and crypts (so interesting to see the different layers of the church)
–St. John Lateran church and cloister (massive church!)
–lunch Alice pizza (cacio e pepe pizza)
–Scala Santa ( I did not climb the stairs on my knees, but many did) (so spiritual)
–Museo Storico della Liberazione (Rome liberation museum)
-gelato Arena Del Gelato (my last of the trip, let’s call this an appetizer to dinner)
–dinner at the Domus (soup, salad, frittata, peas, fruit and wine)

** I learned that I loved all of the churches, but they were all almost visually overwhelming. The smaller less visited churches were very spiritual but, I found the huge really busy churches not as much so. They almost felt like an attraction to me.

DAY 15–

–9:00 am SIT shuttle bus to FCO for my flight home (10 minute walk from the Domus. 15 minutes late, but a great bargain at 7 Euro)
–12:25 pm flight FCO-ATL-IND (FCO the only place that had rude employees in the whole trip)
–9:45 pm landed at IND (an hour or so late)
AFTER THOUGHTS–

Words can’t express the gratitude and blessings I felt about my trip! I felt so blessed and accomplished at being able to travel solo and live through the experience (and the amount of walking and climbing stairs I did) and immensely enjoyed every single moment of the entire trip. I traveled by high speed trains, taxis, buses, metro and by foot and lived to tell about it.

The churches were spiritual and visually eye poppingly beautiful. The art and architecture–words escape me.The food and wine were just phenomenal. I will taste the food and wine forever in my dreams. I will always crave wine, bruschetta and gelato for lunch now. The Italian people were unfailingly nice and helpful to me. All of the interactions with people that I had will always be remembered.

I will never forget Italy!

And thanks to all of you for the help pre-trip you offered and answering my many questions :)