Milano trip report - we spent three nights in Milan and experienced the highs and lows of this vibrant Italian city.
We stayed in the center of the city near the Duomo at Hotel Gran Duca York, a lovely hotel with very helpful staff. Before our trip, they contacted me to offer a car service from Malpensa Airport when we arrived. Our flight was delayed and we were exhausted, so I was glad to see the very nice driver at arrivals waiting for us. A cab to downtown has a flat fare of 114€ and the car was 150€ - it was worth it to us to have someone help us with our bags through the airport and not have to figure out where to find a cab when we were catatonic from travel. I was rather surprised at how small and run down the airport was for such a large city. It’s about 45 minutes drive from there to the Centro.
My husband was pickpocketed on our first morning walking around downtown. Surprisingly enough, we don’t think it happened when we were in a crowd, but rather it likely happened when we were waiting for a green light to cross one of the quieter side streets on our way to lunch. Fortunately, I had asked him that morning to take his debit card out and stash it in his suitcase but he did lose his credit card (and mine was compromised as well since it was the same account, his driver’s license, and SS card - I know , I know, but he likes everything in one place). It was probably overkill, but in addition to cancelling the credit card, I was able to put freezes on his account at all three credit bureaus in the states.
The thief managed to wrack up more than $1,000 in the hour or so before we noticed the loss, but Chase Visa was very helpful when I called and we aren’t liable for the fraudulent charges. The good news is, I learned that the credit card company can give you a new card via Apple Pay (since we wouldn’t be able to get a physical card in time given our travel plans). Paying with our phones has been very easy, and frankly, more secure than a plastic card - everywhere so far from cabs to restaurants to hotels have had the touch and pay on their credit card machine, and I carry some euros just in case.
We had wonderful meals at Osteria del Treno (about a 15 minute cab from our hotel), Trattoria Milanese near the Duomo, and Tomassi near the Last Supper Museum.
The Last Supper was phenomenal and definitely worth seeing. The contrast between Da Vinci’s humanism and the painting made by another artist at around the same time on the other side of the room was quite striking. I bought tickets well before our trip - the regular ones sold out almost immediately after they were released but I was able to get tickets for the guided tour in English, so definitely consider that option if you want to go. They were completely sold out at the museum the day we were there.
We also were able to get tickets back in August to an opera at La Scala and it was an amazing experience. The performance was outstanding and the interior was opulent. Also great people watching with so many elegantly attired opera goers. Milan is an incredibly fashionable city! We sat outside for an aperitivo at the adjoining restaurant before the performance.
If I were to return to Milan, I would probably stay in one of the leafier neighborhoods rather than in Centro, which I found to be rather charmless, very crowded, and near the Duomo, very tacky touristy. The areas around the Last Supper Museum and along the Corso Magenta were beautiful and elegant.
We took a train from the cavernous Stazione Centrale to Genoa, where we are staying for three nights. I’ll file another report after our stay.