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Transportation from Tirano to Milan

Hi all,
This is my first posting on any of the Rick Steves Forums. My husband and I are traveling from Paris to Milan May 5-27, 2025. We will be in Zurich May 20 - 23, and were planning on going from Zurich to Milan Friday, May 23, via Bernina Express since we've never done that before, nor have we been to Milan before. I have Swiss half fare travel cards, and Swiss Saver Day Passes for May 23, which I believe covers our transport from Zurich to Tirano. I also have Bernina Express reservations for the May 23 departure from Chur at 08:17 arriving in Tirano at 12:49.

I am now having difficulty finding transportation from Tirano to Milan as Trenord is doing maintenance on that train line May 23-25, which I did not see posted anywhere back in January when I made the Bernina Express reservations. I have checked the Trenord, Trenitalia, Trainline, SBB and DB websites but all state there are no trains available for May 23, from Tirano to Milan. I have checked the Bernina Express Bus from Tirano to Lugano, but that also seems to have no seats available for the two of us. Any suggestions or anything I've missed?

I am wondering if our next best option is to reroute ourselves from Zurich to Milan, missing out on taking the Bernina Express. I hate to lose the non refundable tickets, but I'd rather not be stuck in Tirano and miss our other reservations in Milan (hotel, Duomo on Saturday AM, Last Supper on Sunday...) before traveling home on May 27.

I have appreciated the many insights and information that is shared on these forums and thank you all in advance.

Posted by
2681 posts

There is train track work between Tirano and Lecco on Lake Como scheduled from June until September 15. This work in May is news to me. The 2026 Winter Olympics are being held in the greater Milan area along with the Dolomites and this is why much of this work Is being done.
Trenord brings in substitute buses for the route the trains are unable to complete. So, you can get from Tirano to Milan— you just will be on a bus rather than a train. Any train tickets on a non-running train will be accepted for the same journey by bus. And where it usually takes 2.5 hours to travel from Tirano to Milan—for the buses add 30-45 minutes to the journey.

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you, Kenko. Since I can't purchase tickets online, do you think Trenord will actually be selling tickets in Tirano, even though the train probably won't be running? Is there somewhere else I should look at for purchasing tickets? Can I get them in Zurich? I guess I'm looking for some reassurance that if we go to Tirano, that we'll actually be able to get tickets there and board a bus if the train is indeed not running, without adding many extra hours to the trip. It will already be a long day. If it's going to be too much of a hassle, I still have time now to look at a different train route Zurich to Milan, instead of the Bernina Express one. Sorry if I sound skeptical or like a nervous nelly. I've never been to Italy and am not familiar with the public transport systems.

Posted by
22083 posts

If the operator of the train cannot sell you tickets, nobody else can. It can be infuriating to tourists that information is not made available in a timely basis, but sometimes that is the way it works in Italy. Locals take it on faith that replacement buses will be available. I would wait another week before you do anything drastic. You have paid for seat reservations on the Bernina Express, and I don't think you can get that back. And you really do not have to make a decision until the last minute.

You can always decide to do the Treno Gottardo from Milan to Bellinzona, which is also very scenic, then change to the EC train the rest of the way to Milan. Your Saver Day Pass will cover you to the Italian border, then you just pay for the Chiasso-Milan portion. Leave Zurich HB at 8:05 am and arrive at Milano Centrale at 12:50 pm.

Edit. Scroll down on this page. Trenord says replacement buses will be provided when rail service is not possible.
https://www.trenord.it/en/routes-and-timetables/

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you Sam for that information. If I understand you correctly, I could choose to: 1) trust the system, take the Bernina Express as purchased, arrive in Tirano, trust I'll be able to purchase train(bus) ticket in Tirano to continue on to Milan, or 2) forfeit the Bernina Express train reservations and rebook another route from Zurich to Milan, such as the very interesting Treno Gattardo one you suggested? I will wait another week before deciding what to do. I do appreciate everyone's help.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks, again, Sam, for the replacement bus link. I will check that out. Again, I appreciate the help. Carol

Posted by
22083 posts

You really do not have to "book" anything right now. Your Saver Day Passes get you on the trains without booking. You will have to add the fare for Chiasso to Milano Centrale, but that can be done day of travel, and that will come with seat reservations for the EC train.

Posted by
5 posts

I think I'll switch our plans to the Treno Gottardo route since I've gotten no response from Trenord regarding whether any tickets will be available for Tirano to Milan to purchase the day of, at the Tirano station, to use with the replacement buses. The Trenitalia and Trenord sites still list "No travel solution" for May 23. I'm not feeling confident about our being able to get on a bus, at least within 4 hours of arriving in Tirano. Does this seem like a fair assiessment?

Thanks for all your help.