Any suggestions for touring the Brunello region? We have a few days to spare and are interested in the area and the
wine.
Montalcino is one big wine store. I did do the wine tasting at the old fortress, and it was fun. But I bought my Brunello at a supermarket in Montepulciano and found it just as good, and cheaper, than what I saw it in Montalcino's shops. They're for tourists.
(Well, the Brunello at the supermarket in Montepulciano is also for the tourists. The locals drink the Montepulciano wine there.)
Personally, I think Brunello has pulled off the greatest little marketing campaign in history. It's good, but it's not great (just my opinion, of course). Give me a Spanish Rioja anytime!
Suzy,
Take a look at the first part of this http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm
Stay at Hotel Vecchia Oliviera in Montalcino with a room facing the back of the hotel which will overlook vineyards, olive groves farms. With a car you can visit the following winerys: Fattoria dei Barbi ( we arrived after lunch but the opened the winery for our group of 4 served cheeses, salami,breads and the very best Brunello . They just kept opening bottles for us to taste!!They recommended we go to a relatively new winery owned by Alberto & Paola Benocci. Alberto was mowing his yard; he stopped, invited us in and and gave us a tour and wine tasting!! WE loved this spontaneous hospitality of the Italians in Montalcino and I just wish Brunello wine was not so costly in the States because in my opinion it is the very best wine in the world!! Nancy Attanasio
Fattoria dei Barbi is great for dinner as well--beautiful setting and our meals were wonderful. Have you considered staying at an Agriturisimo? Great way to reduce the cost of lodging and the countryside is exquisite.
Patrick,
Seems like the professionals in the industry disagree with you...check out the top 100 wines from Wine Spectator each year and you will find an unusually large number of Brunello's on the list...
As for staying in or around Montalcino, we stayed here and found it to be one of the most enjoyable experiences we had on our trip (voted #1 in Montalcino)
or try their web site:
http://www.montalcinoitaly.com/eng/viseng.htm
The town is great fun, with good restaurants and good local wines. If you go in the middle of October, there is a great medieval festival that will capture your imagination should you decide to stay awhile.
Bill: "Patrick, Seems like the professionals in the industry disagree with you..."
They certainly may. Just giving my own opinion. It wouldn't be the first time I've disagreed with experts*, and I'm not the only one who has suggested that Montalcino is something of a Brunello tourist trap.
*Although, as I said, I like Brunello. It's a good wine. I just like the Spanish Riojas more.
Suzy--This is our favorite town and favorite part of Tuscany--expensive Brunello and all.
As for tours where you can also dine for lunch I suggest Barbi and Poggio Antico. Food is good but expensive.
Tours vary greatly in our experience. Some charge but
have free wine tasting, from a little to a lot. Some are free but then charge by the glass for the wine.
Most require reservations.
A good source for wine info, wine tasting in town and
a great view with anipasto type food is Enoteca Osteria Osticcio. It is on one of two main streets--Via Matteotti. Tullio and his wife and now his son run it. He is very knowledgeable and helpful.
In past he has called for us and set up tours at small vineyards that don't normally have tours and especially at places where he knows enough English will be spoken to enjoy the tour.
A couple of small places to visit that require a call or email ahead of time--Mate winery run by 2 nice folks. His wife runs the winery and he is an accomplished author. Read his book before you go and you will enjoy your tour of Brunello region even more.
Another is a charming and beautiful young Countess who has just started an organic vineyard. Prices are high. Quality is excellent. Her name and the name of her winery is Stella di Campalto.
We stay at the Hotel di Capitani at other end of town from hotel already recommended. Both have tremendous views.
As for restaurants, there are more and more these days. Can't go too wrong with them. Ask the hotel people and visit place like Slow Travel which has a bunch of reviews of restaurants as well as Trip Advisor.
Could go on and on. Send private message if you like.
Skip
I agree with Nancy's choice of Hotel Vecchia Oliviera. While there, they will give you a substantial map with winery listings of the area along with their recommendations and will make reservations for you. Our favorite was Casonova di Neri.
Suzy, Don't be afraid to pack some bottles in your suitcase to bring home, because as mentioned, they're very pricey in the US. Bring bubble wrap and plastic bags, roll clothes around them and you should be ok.