After the Bernina Express, our itinerary is to train from Tirano to Varenna for 4 nights then train to Milan for 3 nights then depart from Linate airport. What is the best way to tour lake como? Is it wise to stay put in Varenna and travel around or should I split up the stay somewhere south since I have to make it to Milan anyway? Is the allocation of 4n in Veranna and 3n in Milan reasoanable?
craig, It's a short ride from Tirano to Varenna. Note that the station is actually called "Varenna-Esino". The "best way" to tour Lago di Como (IMO) would be to use Varenna as a home base and then use the Ferries to get to Bellagio, Menaggio or other points on the lake. Four nights in Varenna is good, as you'll need some time to enjoy Varenna as well. I wouldn't bother splitting your time, as changing hotels is a bit of a nuisance and there's really no reason to do so. Where are you planning to stay in Varenna? You may find it helpful to have a look at the Italy 2013 Guidebook, as it has lots of good information on that area. Happy travels!
There are hourly direct trains from Varenna-Esino to Milano Centrale. Trip only takes 1 hour, and doesn't cost very much. So no need to get any closer.
Thanks for your suggestions. Ken, I don't a place to stay in Varenna yet, do you have any suggestions? I'd like a place with a kitchen so we can cook a bit if we choose
craig, I don't know of any places in Varenna with a kitchen (probably because I've never looked for one). When I'm on holidays, cooking and doing dishes is NOT going to happen. I get enough of that at home. Hopefully one of the others will have some suggestions. If you want some suggestions on the "usual" accommodations, I can provide that, but it would help to have some idea on your criteria (price range, comfort level, etc.). Cheers!
Albergo Milano has several accommodations with kitchesn, in addition to the hotel rooms in the main hotel. We stayed inthe large room at Casa Rossa: http://www.varenna.net/e/apartment2.htm It is the room in the photo at the top, with the sloping ceiling (and the red bathroom!). There is a kitchen area with stove and fridge out of sight at the left of this photo. The room is large and bright, and the terrace is lovely. This is on the top floor and there is no elevator. They also offer 1-bdr. apartments with full kitchens in Casa Giallia and Casa Tre Archi. Click on "Bed and Breakfast" in the link above to see photos. Our room came with breakfast on the hotel deck, but I don't know about the other apartments.