Please sign in to post.

Three Weeks on Amalfi Coast

We were in Naples for 9 days. Stayed at Grand Hotel Europa, which is just a few doors from the side entrance to the Main Train Station. It's a family operation and they are nice. They serve dinner every night and we found the food bland and only ate there our first night there. We were able to easily use the trains and Metro from the Train station. The Banco de Napolie has a good International ATM. Naples is just as Rick Steves describes. Overlook the grit and graffiti and need for paint and repairs, if you can, and just enjoy what the area offers. My favorite site which best describes the reality of Naples is the tiny square across the narrow street from the entrance to the Pio Monte della Misericordia. When you look at this tiny space, you see huge weeds growing out of the gutters of the back of the Duomo, multiple layers of construction. An entrance to another church, ancient layers snug up against newer layers, laundry flapping from balconies, entrance to the 4 star Carravaggio Hotel, TV dishes, a monstrous Red Graffiti Lady, A large monument to someone, several parked cars, several big garbage containers(thankfully). And a few motorcycles.
The best food is at Ecomesara, a small family restaurant on Via Santa Chiara
Next, we went to Sorrento . Stayed in the Hotel Central there,(they have a dance floor) and met a group of 100 Contra Dancers, mostly Americans, and danced seven nights in addition to being tourists during the day.
We always used Rick Steves books for everything. Other people in this dance group went on "Tours". The $ they spent on tours out of Sorrento was similar to the $ we spent for the nine days in Naples.

Posted by
3941 posts

I have the Grand Europa booked for an overnight only in Sept before heading to Amalfi.

We are arriving late from the airport (flight from UK arrives 9:45) and thought to take the Alibus to the train stn. I realize it is only a few min walk - did you feel OK in that area in the evening? I know there is lots of unsavoury stuff near the train stn, but I didn't want to pay all the money for a cab (and hearing about some of the cab drivers who may overcharge) when the bus practically gets us there for a lot less...(there will be 3 of us).

Posted by
10 posts

We worked very hard at touristing during the day, ate dinner and went back to hotel before dark. Were never out at night. The Alibus stop (there's a small sign there) at the airport is at the corner just right of the McDonalds, across the parking lot in front of the airport. When Alibus gets to Garibaldi Square, it parks beyond the construction in front of the train station, so station may be behind you when you get off the bus. Have the bus driver point you in the right direction. At the train station, enter, go forward to shopping area, turn left and proceed past stores, go past track 5, left, right, out gates. You are on Corso Meridionale. Right few doors. Abandoned gas tanks on left. Hotel across street. The hotel entrance is attractive, has brown wood trim surrounding the entrance, and is well lighted. Distances are not great. I can give you more details if you need them

Posted by
3941 posts

Thanks for the details - I was looking at it on google maps and used the street view...but I will have to save those directions since there is more detail...thanks!

Posted by
10 posts

More thoughts. We had a very early departure flight from Naples. The hotel made our reservation for a taxi, we paid the hotel and they gave us a voucher. The cabby was on time, so no cab problems. You might contact the hotel and have them arrange a cab to meet you right at the Alibus stop in Garibaldi Square (near the hotel). You can see all of this on Google Maps and it makes sense. From there, it's a very short ride and you don't have to go through the train station. Also, cabs may be nearby the bus stop anyway. I don't remember.
The hotel puts up a big steel cage over the front door at night. I'm sure there's a doorbell there. The night guy will talk to you through the gate, then direct you to an alternate entrance to the right, which he opens. We saw all this the morning we flew out.
The people at the hotel are really very helpful and we were never threatened in any way when walking about the neighborhood during the day. We didn't buy things from the street merchants, but did use grocery, pharmacy and good little restaurant down the street. And the ability to day-trip out of this train station is worth it. Metro Line 1 has now been finished to main station area, so you have all the trains and Metro right there.

Posted by
7364 posts

Ben, if you still have access to Edit, I'll encourage you, politely, to change the title of your post. Naples and Sorrento are not on the Amalfi Coast, so it would be much better to say something like, "Three weeks in Campania".

Posted by
10 posts

I used those words because the title of the Rick Steves 2013 book is Naples and the Amalfi Coast including Pompeii. The readers of Rick Steves books can find the information in his book and note changes that have occurred since the book was printed.

Posted by
3941 posts

Thanks...that reminds me to get back in touch with the hotel and remind them we'll be arriving late. I don't think we'll have an issue walking thru the train stn...I'll use my mom as a shield (JOKING) ;)

Posted by
10 posts

Happy Trip! If you have other questions, I'll try to answer. We tried to see "everything" in the area

Posted by
3941 posts

Thanks - we aren't staying long in Naples - we are flying in late, doing Pompeii the next morning, then heading for Amalfi for 3 nights. We're staying in Atrani, and I have a private tour booked for the first full day (goes to some of the little towns and Positano/Sorrento) with Sorrento Silver Car, so that's an all day thing. Weather permitting, the next day we'll take the bus to Ravello and do the hike back down to Atrani, then revisit any of the little villages we found interesting if we feel we need more time. Wanted to do Paestum, but that's another all day trip, and we only have 2 full days. And skipping Capri most likely this time (I know I'll be back). Then we'll head back to Naples, do the Arch museum, then booting it for Rome hoping to get there mid-late afternoon! Hubby and I did Naples in 08, but only Herculaneum and Vesuvius (as a day trip from Rome). Some year, we'll spend 3-4 days in Naples proper.

Posted by
10 posts

If you use the Circumvisuviana train, wear your money belt and get into the front car. Seriously. My husband, wearing a safe-pac fanny pack had all the pockets locked except for a small one holding a small amt $. They took the money and left the train tickets and a business card. The locals ride in the front car and the tourists are in the back cars with the pickpockets. Otherwise, your trip sounds fun.

Posted by
15860 posts

Seriously, never, never wear a fanny pack. They're an invitation for light fingers, and instantly mark you as a tourist - not that the locals don't recognize a tourist in 2 seconds anyway.

Posted by
10 posts

He likes it and considered the theft a warning. He then agreed that I should keep "today's" $ in my bra. Otherwise, he would have to do the unlock ritual every time he needed a little $. This plan continued for the rest of the trip. I never got a funny look from anyone when I reached for money. So, I decided they'd seen this before.