Three Weeks in Sicily: Should I rent a car or are trains and car hires sufficient?

Understanding where you go and what you want to do in Sicily will help others to provide the best advice. We were in Sicily in May and chose to rent w car because of the locations we planned to visit. I selected accommodations with parking and had no issues as we visited primarily smaller towns or parked at our lodging. If you plan to visit large cities, trains and hiring cars may work. If you do decide to rent a car, we sure to get the zero deductible coverage so you have no concerns while driving. We didn’t have any particular issues with the Sicilian drivers, but it was nice to have no concerns around potential damage.

Want to go to Palermo for a few days, then go West around the island - Trapani, Agrigento, Siragusa, Ortigia, Catania, perhaps Taormina.

Hello,

I haven't been to the west side of Sicily, so I don't have personal experience with it. But the east side, Catania, Syracusa, Ortygia, Noto, Taormina......very easy with trains, buses and an occasional taxi.

You'd want to sort out your itinerary first then see where/when a car would be useful. You won't need or want in certain places- Palermo, Catania, Ortigia but in between you might want. And you'd need to book lodging that provides parking.

IOW-just strategic combination of car rental/train or bus/maybe private driver.

Ex: If you are flying in/out Palermo- save Palermo til the end
Pick up car on arrival and drive to Trapani, etc then across the island and drop the car in Siracusa and use trains/bus/driver for return to Palermo to fly home.
I wouldn't want a car for 3 weeks.

We first did this in December 2012, so it’s been some time, but we rented at the Palermo Airport with Europcar and headed immediately west, first for the remarkable Greek temple at Segesta, then on to Erice, Agrigento, Caltagerona, Piazza Armerina, Modica, Siracusa, etc. The rest of the passengers on our flight from Rome to Palermo were all speaking German, and all went to the Sixt desk upon arrival. Europcar gave us a great car at a lower price. Nobody, though, was counting on public transportation, and you noted the benefits of flexibility and luggage management, and I’ll add going on your own schedule, where you want to go, and in what order. We turned in the car at a different location, actually on mainland Italy, after taking it across on a ferry at Messina, so a round trip isn’t required, unless that’s how you’re going to do it.

Six years later, a former teaching colleague and I stayed in Palermo for a few days, then rented a car to explore farther south, then east. Again, we weren’t tied to train (or bus?) routes or timing. Parking and getting gas were part of the car rental process, but not a hassle, given the benefits.

We flew into and out of Catania and had a rental car. It made getting to some of the out of the way places, like the Trapani and Marsala salt farms, Caccamo castle, etc., much easier. Rather than drive into Palermo we stayed in Monreale and took the bus into the city.

Whether to get a rental car or not depends on your comfort level driving overseas and how much you want to be dependent on public transportation schedules. In Sicily we rented from Avis. As already mentioned, knowing where you’re going should help you decide.

We did a combination of bus, train, rental car.

We took a bus from Catania Airport to Taormina and then a train to Siracusa. We rented a car upon leaving Siracusa and returned it at the Palermo Airport before taking the train into Palermo. While in Palermo, we made a day trip by train to Cefalu.

The North and East side of the island have pretty good public transportation. It is very difficult to get by public transportation from east to west (or vice versa) in the south. We opted for a combination because it was more economical.

I think you'll want a car between Palermo and Siracusa, but a lot depends upon what you want to see and do. I will say that it's a waste of time and money to go back to the Palermo airport to pick up your rental car. We picked up at Sixt down by the harbor, which is pretty much a straight shot out of town toward Trapani. It is super easy driving that route. If you are comfortable driving through downtown Palermo (again, not a big deal IMO) you could swing by Monreale as you leave town.

You don't really need a car for Trapani but it is convenient. You could take the bus to Trapani and rent your car as you leave town. You'll save the not inconsequential hassle of parking in Trapani. There are busses down to the salt pans and to the Erice cable car.

With your car, you'll be able to get to Valley of the Temples early, park at the quieter north entrance. You'll be able to visit the amazing Roman mosaics at the Villa del Casale.

You mention going straight to Siracusa without spending any nights in the various baroque hill towns. With a car you'd be able to sleep in Ragusa and conveniently visit the various Baroque hill towns. Alternatively, you could visit these from Siracusa, but you'd probably want to still have your car and it'd mean a lot more driving time than if you slept closer.

Whom to use: Use AutoEurope (consolidator) or Sixt. Don't choose an "American" brand thinking it gets you any extra quality or protection or support. The Frankfurt or Rome Avis is not the same company as the Omaha Avis.

TLDR: Rent from downtown Palermo or as you leave Trapani. A larger compact is a good size. Get the full insurance. Download the EasyPark app.

We rented a car from the Palermo airport for a month to stay at four different Airbnbs strategically located near 1) Palermo, 2) Menfi 3) Ortygia 4) Catania. Parking was sometimes problematic, and driving on highways felt sometimes like a daredevil's sport, but there is too much to see in terms of little towns along and architectural ruins that we would have missed if confined to public transportation. If I had to do it again--we never made it Etna--I would definitely NOT want to rely on trains, taxis and Ubers. Spring should be ideal in terms of weather. Enjoy!

I'll say this: Italian drivers generally are way, way, way better and more polite drivers than the ones in St. Paul, Minnesota. But you do need to understand the local style, the unspoken rules of the road. Especially how passing works.

Thanks for the wide-ranging feedback! I’m realizing that I don’t have a reason to start in Palermo and go counter-clockwise towards Ortigia and Catania. In fact I don’t have a set itinerary or agenda, just trying to combine depth and breadth for our first time in Sicily. What I’m reading here makes it sound like i can pick up a car in the southeast after spending a big chunk of time in the east, and then driving across the south and going up to - and maybe ending - in Palermo. But still thinking and still welcome advice!

A car is useful to see many places west and south of Palermo:
Scopello, Zingaro Natural Reserve, Erice, San Vito Lo Capo, Trapani, Segesta, Selinunte, Valley of the Temples (near Agrigento), Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana del Casale.

Do not have a car while in Palermo. While in Palermo you can also take a day trip to Cefalù by train.

You can do without a car in Siracusa (Ortigia), from which you can visit Noto and Modica, and Ragusa Ibla (by train). You can also do without a car in Taormina and of course Catania.

In your shoes, to minimize car rental, I would land in Palermo, visit Palermo without car, then rent a car, visit west and south Sicily without a car, return the car in Siracusa, take train to Taormina, see Taormina without car, then train to Catania, and fly home from Catania.

I'll say this: Italian drivers generally are way, way, way better and more polite drivers than the ones in St. Paul, Minnesota. But you do need to understand the local style, the unspoken rules of the road. Especially how passing works.

100% agree. They tend to be much more attentive, quick and decisive and will much more often change lanes and let you merge without drama as long as you don't dawdle.

Actually I like decisive driving! Sounds good to me.