Construction:
There are numerous projects going on with the goal of completing some of them for 2025. We were disappointed to find all 3 fountains in Piazza Navone under wraps being cleaned for 2025. Would have loved to have seen them in all their glory. Also, the obelisk and fountain in front of the Pantheon. There is a massive project going on to put in a new subway line which adversely affects the whole area of Trajan's column all the way down to the Colosseum. I knew about this but did not realize the scope of it. This is not something which will be completed in the near future.
Sights:
Pantheon - Very impressive, enjoyable to tour, stunning floors as are so many in Rome, bought tix on site, not a long wait around 10:00 am.
Borghese Gallery - Exquisite - I had stressed about the Caravaggio collection being on tour before we went (as some Forum posters may remember) Well, they were all back plus a bonus baby of a Velasquez on loan from Ireland. The Bernini sculptures were magnificent. Note to Kathy: I very much liked Bernini's David. Because the upstairs was closed for rehab, we went to see the paintings that had been moved from there to Palazzo Barberini. Well worth seeing. I don't know if the collection is back now in the Borghese or not.
Roman Forum/Palatine hill
Excellent - Quite a few people in the Forum, not as much on the Palatine- used RS guidebook, informative and enjoyable as usual, great views on the Palatine - Do not try to do this with the Colosseum, way too much- We had the Super Forum tik which allowed us entry into Augustus's house, hardly anyone there. Check hours for the Super sights, not all open on all days.
Domus Aureus (Underground ruins of Nero's palace) - Must have advance tiks for guided tour by sight personnel. Only 25 people on tour, no other groups were there. Good tour, fascinating sight, high quality experience including a fun 10 min virtual reality experience. Same tik seller as Colosseum, Forum etc. Only available Fri, Sat, Sun
National Museum of Rome and Capitoline Museums
Neither are crowded, both have top-notch ancient Roman art, use the RS book to know what they have but know things can be in different places. Especially at the Capitoline, we thought some of the iconic sculptures might be on loan but no, they were there just in a different place. Ask the attendants if you can't find something.
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Delighful Palazzo with world-class art, no crowds, very good audioguide. I am looking at my "Little Hall of Mirrors" mousepad as I write this.
Churches
Visited many well described in RS book. Liked them all. Crowds varied from low to moderate. San Clemente was very special. We bought tix on-line to visit the 2 undergound levels. A memorable experience not to be missed. All the churches had their unique features. One not mentioned in RS (was a tip from forum) is St Augustine's close to Piazza Navona. Very peaceful little church which happens to have a Caravaggio and a Raphael fresco. Some churches have closures during the day so it does require some planning to visit them.
Besides the sights , we did alot of the RS walks. The only area we really did not like was Trastevere. It was a very hot day so we did not do the entire walk but what we saw we didn't care for. Slathered in grafitti, kind of tourist trappy, nothing special. We did visit Villa Farnesina adjacent to Trastevere which was very nice.
Our hotel, the Nerva Boutique, was in Monti which we enjoyed. Nice shops, some good little restaurants, good vibe. Yes, the Monti has some graffiti but is not dominated by it.
The hotel (in RS) was quite nice excellent service, quiet room not facing the street, not a large room but bigger than I thought it wourld be. Be aware it is far more expensive than the usual RS hotels. Rome is an expensive hotel city. Restaurants, though, had reasonable prices.
The Vatican sights will be a separate post.