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This Is Why Italy Seems Overrun This Year

I imagine I'm not the only person puzzled about why the Vatican Museums are currently selling out day after day (and often weeks in advance), when in the past the complaints focused on grotesque overcrowding rather than ticketing challenges on the VM website. Well, the answer may be in an article about tourists behaving badly that's currently available on the CNN website: https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/italy-tourists-bad-behavior/index.html

I quote: "International visitor numbers from January to July 2022 were up 172% on 2021 and even 57% on pre-pandemic records, according to ENIT, Italy's tourist board." 57% seems a huge increase. And that's without many visitors from China, I assume.

The article itself is quite interesting; it mentions quite a few incidents I hadn't previously heard about. Who knew tourists have, on separate occasions, stolen a gondola, a water taxi and a vaporetto(!) in Venice? And so far this year, there have been 43 incidents of swimming in the Venetian canals.

Edited to add: I don't know how to interpret the "up 172% on 2021" part; journalists often don't express themselves clearly/accurately when numbers are involved. My guess is this means what it says, that 2022 is 172% higher than 2021 (which had severely depressed numbers due to the pandemic), rather than being 172% of the 2021 level (which would just be 72% higher). I think it's the difference from the last "normal" year, 2019, that tells the story, though.

Posted by
4104 posts

This quote from a psychologist in the article to explain some bad behaviours;

"We have a sense of anonymity. We're not known, and that gives us a
bit of protection."

Maybe I'm an oddball, but I've always felt that I needed to be on my best behaviour and to represent myself and my country well. I never feel that I'm anonymous and entitled. Words in the article like 'idiots' and 'imbeciles' I think best describes the people with the bad behaviour.

Posted by
3046 posts

My wife and I always try to put out a good impression. We don't wear shorts. We wear nice clothes. We don't swim in the canals (yuck).

Posted by
1699 posts

The Italian phrase for today - for both locals and foreigners - 'i soliti imbecilli'.

Posted by
8447 posts

It would be great if the authorities in whatever country, would actually punish these offenders severely, and follow up news stories would report that as widely. Maybe Venice could tax those tourists.

Posted by
1430 posts

Italy, a country of 60 million people, was hugely visited this summer and fall by international visitors. The government says 96 million international visitors arrived in 2019. So that 57% increase this year (so far) over 2019 means that the 60 million were already visited by 161 million this year— and it was without the usual numbers of Asian tourists making the trip to 🇮🇹 Italy.
Makes one wonder what 2023 will be like…

Posted by
2622 posts

We are in Italy right now and we have noticed this:
Venice - was the most crowded we have seen in our 5 visits. The weekend was especially bad - we could barely walk around - the streets were that densely packed. The new road from San Polo area to the train station was incredible - it was teeming with people. Crowds thinned on Sunday and were better for our other 3 nights.
Rome - crowded but only in the main tourist areas. Much easier to deal with although I agree about the Vatican - the Vatican was at capacity and you flowed through it in a moving throng of people.

We’re down south now in Puglia and it’s totally fine and it’s gorgeous down here!

Posted by
154 posts

We’re in Umbria now and the crowds haven’t been bad. Assisi Duomo was busy as was the main square but weren’t overwhelmed. People seem happy to welcome tourists.
Rome at the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps and the walk between them was a little crazy but we expected that. The Pantheon at 10:30 am was not bad and we could move around without any problem with no real line up to get in. Rome Termini was crowded and took me some time to negotiate getting tickets to Orvieto at about 9:45 am. There was a line up that seemed to be taking about an hour to get to one of the 2 agents but I worked out how to use the ticket machines with the help of an adjacent local with a family - don’t be paranoid.
We’re going by train from Bologna to Varenna, Stresa and Kastelruth today for 9 nights and see how busy that area is. I plan to just take it easy.

Posted by
13946 posts

Just was in Varenna and Kastelruth 2 weeks ago and did not find it really busy EXCEPT trying to get a meal on a Sunday night in Kastelruth. Eat early.

I was actually in the Vatican Museums yesterday (Saturday). Our group was there about 10 minutes before opening. Crowds were light. Walking through the map hall we were almost alone. I was shocked as was the local guide. The Pope was meeting with 60,000 of his nearest and dearest at noon so that might have drawn off some crowds. The worst spot was trying to get back on the Metro at Ottavani.

Posted by
468 posts

Thanks. As we plan to leave in about a week I am very concerned about the crowds. Never worried about dinner reservations in advance and now concerned we will be wandering just trying to find something. Most places you have to call for reservations and The time difference has made it hard.

Posted by
24 posts

We are in Rome now…we have been in Italy for close to 2 weeks. This is at least our 5th or 6th visit to Italy in the past 10 years.

Our first week in Tuscany did not seem overly crowded at all…even on our day trips into Florence and Siena. We had no trouble getting restaurant reservations a day ahead…or even the morning of. Rome also does not seem terribly crowded this past week compared to our previous visits. From the locals we have talked with, the crowds seemed to have diminished quite a bit the beginning of this month. We heard that July through September was very, very busy. The tourism industry here is very happy about that!

Posted by
46 posts

I was in Venice this week. Mid-week seems to be the trick as crowds were large but manageable. The only real line I saw was for the Basilica San Marco, and I was easily able to get a skip-the-line ticket for the next day (albeit at 3:30 as that was the earliest). The central area between San Marco and the Rialto was jam-packed mid-day, but still moving smoothly.

I had no trouble at all getting into restaurants, and even getting a seat next to a canal at aperitivo time.

I have been in Padua for the weekend. The streets were busy and the wine bars were packed, but almost everyone was speaking Italian. Not relevant to this thread, but the Scrovegni chapel might be the most impressive work of art I have ever seen and shouldn't be missed by anyone visiting the northeast.

Posted by
1388 posts

We've been home almost a week from a month-long trip to western Tuscany and Liguria where we were surprised at how packed the Tuscan towns were. Tarquinia, Pitigliano, Massa Marittima, and Volterra, for instance, were all very busy. However, the museums and churches were not at all busy, even in Pisa and San Gimignano --- people seemed to be mostly eating and hanging around in the piazze and exploring the streets. We expected San Gimignano to be mobbed to the point of being unpleasant and it was well past that point, so we saw the frescoes we came to see and beat it out of there.

Virtually no English-speaking tourists, mainly Italians and German-speakers (quite a few Swiss, judging from license plates in parking lots). Perhaps people waited to visit this area until the Americans, Canadians, English, Australians, etc had gone home at the end of the summer. Quite a few large tour groups.

Posted by
11322 posts

Virtually no English-speaking tourists, mainly Italians and German-speakers (quite a few Swiss, judging from license plates in parking lots)

Nancy, The Swiss have a school break (varies from Canton to Canton) so many travel in October. Not sure if it is due to school breaks, but we have always noticed the German tourists (adults) surge in Italy in the fall. They will go to the beaches long after Italians think it’s too cold to do so, and the beaches are deserted even though temps are lovely by our standards. I won’t even go into the North Pacific hear in the height of summer!

Posted by
11322 posts

SA as to dinner reservations, it is often sufficient to call at 6pm day-of unless it is a renowned place like Armando al Pantheon. Or stop by during lunch or dinner hours and make a reservation for another day/time. Increasingly, I find good Italian places have online reservations whether though The Fork, Quandoo, or simply by emailing them on their site.

Posted by
258 posts

Just adding to what Laurel said. Download "Whatsapp" and check to see if the restaurant phone number is there. We texted many times and got reservations the day of, or the day before using this app.

Posted by
464 posts

Yes….Crowds are a major concern for me next summer!? We will be traveling in Italy mid July with 3 generation family. When vacationing with grade school kids, July works best for them. I realize heat also an issue…hoping for no record heatwaves! And not record breaking crowds!?…My next thought is how much touristy is needed and desired after Covid! We will do our best to stay positive and tolerant!

Posted by
379 posts

I was actually in the Vatican Museums yesterday (Saturday). Our group was there about 10 minutes before opening. Crowds were light. Walking through the map hall we were almost alone. I was shocked as was the local guide. The Pope was meeting with 60,000 of his nearest and dearest at noon so that might have drawn off some crowds. The worst spot was trying to get back on the Metro at Ottavani.

I was in the museum that day - this is what the map room looked like around 1230

https://imgur.com/a/fyPGu8t

I thought it was busy but the guide said it wasn't bad compared to peak season

Posted by
1925 posts

edwardius

I looked at your picture and it looked just like the Hermitage when I went in 2019. Not a lot of fun, in my opinion.

Posted by
27122 posts

AMann, few people were traveling in January 2022 because a lot of us were waiting to see what COVID was going to do and what the entry rules would be for the countries we intended to visit. That was about the time I found a great deal (about 50 euros per night) on a 3-star hotel in Rome near the Spanish Steps, to arrive in late April. Unfortunately, I had to delay the trip and cancel that reservation. I'm sure the hotel was thrilled to get my cheapo reservation off its books.

I would anticipate much higher visitor levels in January 2023.

Posted by
103 posts

We just returned from a month in Italy, all but four days of it in Sicily. It was wonderful, busy but not crazy. Winding down with four days in Cefalù was a great finish to the journey. We flew in and out of Rome without hassle and planned our time there, with some success, to avoid the masses. We made the obligatory stop at Trevi Fountain early in the day and got our selfie without pushing and shoving.
Walking along the Tiber last Saturday, we looked down the Via della Conciliazione toward Saint Peter's Square and saw the masses. We kept walking.

Posted by
865 posts

Just spent 4-1/2 weeks in country. Least busy I have ever seen it to be. Venice is the usual mayhem in and around Rialto bridge. St. Mark's was, by normal standards, practically empty. This was a week after the film festival and during glass week. Vaporettos were even tolerable. Short lines on traghetti as well.

Posted by
13946 posts

@Edwardius - we were probably in that room about 930? We entered just before the 830 opening time, in fact the guide said he was surprised they'd opened the door 10 minutes before but I didn't look at my watch. So probably had progressed to the Map Room area in an hour. In previous visits I've seen it like you viewed it...shoulder to shoulder.

Posted by
7363 posts

I’m in Florence right now, and it’s surprisingly busy. This is Art Week Florence, something I’d never heard of, and that’s possibly a contributing factor. I don’t think so, though … it’s just crowded.

Between Rome, Molise, Abruzzo, and Tuscany, my unofficial, unscientific perception is that the most tourists are (if not Italian): German, followed by Americans, then a smattering of Swiss, French, and a few other Europeans.

Posted by
1161 posts

Cyn, we must have crossed paths on our trips. We were in Florence at the same time, as well as Cortona!

We found Rome to be absolutely miserable. It was so crowded you couldn't move. The the airline strike hit, and we were stuck. Ended up training out of Rome to our final destination of Paris rather than be stuck in Rome another day or two. We did the Vatican and instantly regretted it. It was the usual can of sardines packed, and hot and humid inside from people packed head to toe. Florence was less crowded, and you could actually move. We very much enjoyed our time in Florence, Cortona, Orvieto, Montepulciano, Pienza, and visited Pisa/Lucca for a day. All were busy and very much alive with tourists, but manageable (except for Rome!)