The Ultimate Itinerary: Rome and South

Moving south of Rome you need to stay in Naples for a few days at least. Naples is a crazy mix of urban chaos and ancient culture and I don't think you can say you've "done" southern Italy without experiencing it. It gives you good access to Herculaneum if you want and Pompeii. And of course there is the National Archaeological Museum along with other sights.

Slightly further south is much smaller and quieter Salerno. Salerno gives you access to Naples, Pompeii and Paestum (don't miss Paestum) by train and access to the Amalfi Coast via ferry and bus. Salerno is also the jumping off point for trains further south as you head into Calabria.

I recommend searching the forum for previous discussions about Rome, Naples, and other destinations. Do you have a number of nights minimum or maximum? The pacing and how many days where is dictated by your total number and those you already know you have to spend - like those in Calabria.

Have a great trip,
=Tod

Thanks, Tod! I hadn’t thought of Paestum at all, but wow—those temples look extraordinary. That’s definitely going on the list.

I’m thinking we’re probably looking at around three weeks for Rome, Campania, the Amalfi Coast, Calabria, and a bit of historical wandering—give or take. Does that seem about right, or would you tighten or stretch it?

Really appreciate the guidance—this is exactly the kind of perspective I was hoping for.

I think three weeks is a good length - I wouldn't go any shorter - and it should give you time. I would think something like:

Rome 5/6 nights which is 4/5 days. There is so much to see planning Rome is hard. (I'm planning 5 nights right now and there isn't enough time.)
Naples 3/4 nights - see the city, Herculaneum if you want and maybe Pompeii
Salerno 4/5 nights - see Paestum, Pompeii (if you haven't) AC
If you want to stay on the Amalfi coast you will need arrange that time. So that's about 2 weeks on its own and then add Calabria and probably a full day to get back to Rome or Naples to fly home. If Calabria is only a few days you could expand your time above.

Possible additions: Ostia Antica (Roman ghost town easy to reach from Rome), Caserta - an important historical town near Naples with no American tourists.

Calabria is 3-4 hours on the train from Salerno depending on where you are going. If you need a car you'll need to plan where to pick it up and return it since much of Calabria are small towns.

Others will have other suggestions or timings these are just my opinions.

My tips:
Salerno has a wide pedestrian shopping street Corso Vittorio Emanuele that runs from the train station to downtown. I reccomend staying anywhere in this area for easy access to strolling and the train station. Once you hit the old town it breaks down into a series of old streets, alleys and passageways. Restaurants and bars are scattered all over in this area. The cathedral - especially the basement - is worth touring and search the oldest parts of old town for murals and art alleys.

If you're in Salerno for an extended period of time do not miss the eté Prime at 174 Corso Vittorio Emanuele tucked away between the clothes shops and bank. The front opening onto Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the wide pedestrian only shopping street) is small hallway but set back from the street is an amazing grocery store worth knowing about. The store is kind of like Conad meets Whole Foods and one in Salerno has high end goods at really good prices. I saw 6 kinds of local specialty Buffalo Mozzarella for 2-6e, selection of bakery breads, and shelves of Barolo starting at 12e and topping out at 23e.

The many fruit and daily needs places that dot the street are fine for everyday things but if you have a kitchen or want to put on a real spread and a nice bottle of wine this store is a great place.

A minor tip but: The best sfogliatelle in the world is 5 minutes from the Naples train station. Antico Forno delle Sfogliatelle Calde Fratelli Attanasio Vico at Ferrovia 1/2/3/4. Walk over, show up, grab a number right away and wait your turn. So worth it.

Enjoy sud di Italia,
=Tod

I’m assuming Calabrian is a family history thing—is that the case and can you share the location?

@valadelphia: The people we’re going to visit are near Lamezia Terme and Reggio Calabria. They’re not family—at least not our family—but relatives of a very close friend whose roots are there, and he’s already talking about rolling out the red carpet for us.

We’ve been lucky enough to have this happen before. Years ago in Lincoln, UK, what began as a visit with family of friends turned into something much deeper. Those people, though not related by blood, have become our real family in every way that counts.

We know how rare that is, and how fortunate we are!

@Tod: Thanks for taking the time to craft such well considered replies! I'm definitely using your itinerary as the model for mine. The only thing I'm going to add is a couple of days to get to Palermo, where we can fly home from. It'll be 23 days in all. Everything sounds great, but I'm really looking forward to that sfogliatelle! Thanks again! I hope I can return the favor some time.

@LADTM You're welcome.

I spent 8 nights in Salerno in 2024 and I've posted about it in other threads as have other people so you might take the time to search the forum for some of those suggestions. Hopefully the upper floor of the museum at Paestum - the Roman floor - is open by the time you go. The museum was only partially open when we went. Absolutely still worth seeing but I'll need to go back when it's fully open.

Have a great trip,
=Tod

Without reiterating what many of my colleagues have said, I think that in September there is one place to avoid staying, and that would be on the Amalfi Coast itself. It will still be high season, so you will pay a steep price indeed to lodge. This isn't to say you should avoid the A.C per se, just don't stay there. I would:

Rome - 10 nights in an AirBnB in a bustling neighborhood that has everything within walking distance. Campo de' Fiori and Trastevere are my favoites. Set up shop, chill & have a blast.

Naples - 5 nights--I have never stayed in Naples proper but the experts here can guide you well. Easily within reach are Pompei, Ercolano and the wonderful Archeological Museum right there in Naples.

Salerno - 5/6 nights - from here (check out Hotel Plaza right across from the train station for a dandy & inexpensive spot to stay) you can do your Amalfi Coast trips. Public trans with the SITA bus or ferry will be challenging indeed, and let me know if you want contact info on a private guide, which is pricey but super-efficient & well worth it in my eyes. With the guide we visited Vietri sul Mare, Ravello & Minori with no problem whatsoever. And of course you can read upthread on the jewels of Salerno itself.

Enjoy your planning!

Knowing you have to be in Palermo for your flight home does deduct some time. You need to determine how long you’ll spend with the friends in Reggio Calabria and Lamezia (I suppose you could fly to Palermo but it’s not clear if you were planning on spending any time there).. Basically, something will get short shrift. I would consider making that Rome, since it is the easiest place to return on any future Italy visit. I’d also strongly consider skipping the Amalfi coast and go whole hog on Calabria. But I have an aversion to crowds so I’ll always choose an alternative. You could see what you want to in Rome and Naples+environs, then get a car to explore the wild mountains of Calabria.