Testaccio Market neighborhood

One of my top three favorite pizzerias in Rome is there, Pizzeria da Remo. Be sure to order a suppli before the pizza.

Walking around, almost all of the restaurants that are built into “Monte Testaccio” looked romantic, authentic and interesting. The area was rollicking at dinner time, and felt like almost anywhere would be a good bet.

Some kind of walking tour would be good. I went on the Eating Italy food tour here, and found the introduction to the neighborhood to be very interesting and engaging. I feel like it helps to have that kind of background on this particular neighborhood. It’s a working class neighborhood with a unique history and character that I think you’d miss without a guide.

Excellent question, Becky!

I have eaten at 2 restaurants in Testaccio: Flavio al Velavevodetto as well as Pecorino. Flavio is built into the base of Monte Testaccio, and is an extremely popular restaurant with locals. Reservations definitely required. Pecorino is a fabulous lunch spot.

I agree with fellow forum member feedback that a guided tour of this neighborhood is recommended. On my first trip to Rome, I hired private guide Patrizia Sfligiotti to tour Monte Testaccio. Fascinating tour and one of my favorite experiences of that trip - yes, visiting an ancient rubbish heap is COOL. I know that private guide Agnes Crawford offers history tours of Monte Testaccio with lunch stops in the neighborhood as well. Also, the views of Rome from the top of Monte Testaccio are hard to beat and a unique experience that few get to have considering you can only get into the site with a guide.

Also, check out Natalie Kennedy’s blog An American in Rome. Natalie lives in Testaccio, and writes about her neighborhood often. Great blog, and amazing pictures to motivate your adventures!

Let us know if we can help further and happy planning!

Take the Eating Italy food tour for both the food and the history of the area. Mt Testaccio is not a natural hill, it is the midden formed by thousands and thousands of trashed pots used to bring olive oil from Spain over centuries. It is easy to make out the layers of pots and I swear you can still get a whiff of olive oil as you walk past the hill! The new market is lacking the charm of the old street market but the produce and baked goods were wonderful.

A agree with the suggestion to take the food tour. You’ll get a lot of local history, a stroll with food sampling through the neighborhood, the Protestant cemetery and the market, and you’ll end up with a meal at Flavio’s. It’s a great way to spend a day.

The Mattatoio is a branch of Rome's museum of contemporary art. It's set in warehouses from the old slaughterhouse that used to operate there. It also has a little cafe. I highly recommend it.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/V1r9Q96WmQS2
Website: https://www.mattatoioroma.it/ (Click on the EN in the upper right to switch to English language)

One thing about Testaccio is that there is graffiti everywhere. Some of it (the cool graffiti) is commissioned art, but there's a lot of just random spray paint. Don't let it mess up your appreciation for this neighborhood.

Also, there's a great park in the center of Testaccio that functions as the gathering place/playground for the locals. Here's that location:
https://goo.gl/maps/qhhwHuVm9xp

And if you are very, very brave, you can try a plate of pajata. I am not that brave. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/italy/11746780/Italians-celebrate-return-of-classic-dish-based-on-calves-intestines.html

I second (third?) the recommendation for the Testaccio supper stroll through Eating Italy food tours. I hope Nesim is still a guide because he was fantastic.

Thank you all for your suggestions. We will look into a food tour.

Laurel, My husband is excited about suppli!

Supplì, it may be the only roman world with a posh French pronunciation. Strange for a blue collars' street food, isn't it?

Has anyone taken the 4 hour Rome Food Walking Tour of Testaccio with Viator? The one that visits the Protestant Cemetery and the Pyramid? It sounds almost identical to the one from Eat Italy.