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Suggestions for a month in Southern Italy

My husband and I are retired and heading for a month in Italy (Sept/Oct). We have never traveled south of Rome before and would like some advice. Our flights are to and from Rome, the only thing set at this point. We are interested in Rome, Naples, Ischia, Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi Town, We like to spend at least 3 nights in a place to relax and explore. We will be depending on public transportation and look forward to using the ferries when we can.

Do our fellow travelers have some favorites and suggestions so we can gauge how long to stay in each town and the best ways to get there? Many thanks.

Posted by
2124 posts

A blank canvas? Rome south? Holy opportunity, Batman, let me count the ways, but here's a somewhat different one, involving the eastern Italian coast and Sicily, given you have a month (destination/# nights in bold):

Arrive Rome
Rome 3

(train Rome/Salerno)
Salerno 3 [visit Pompei, Naples]
(train Salerno/Matera)
Matera 1
(train Matera/Bari)
Bari 3 [visit Polignano a Mare]
(fly Bari/Palermo)
Palermo 5
(bus/train Palermo/Taormina)
Taormina 3
(train Taormina/Messina)
(train on ferry Messina/Reggio Calabria)
Reggio Calabria 1
(train R.Calabria/Paestum)
Paestum 1
(train Paestum/Amalfi)
Amalfi 5 [visit Positano, Sorrento, Ischia]
(bus/train Amalfi/Rome)
Rome 5
Depart Rome

Now that I look at it, this looks a tad insane, but I'd take this trip. I do love Italian train travel but the downside in southern Italy is that you are beholden to their schedules, which are not always 100% dependable like the north. I've always wanted to do the train on the ferry from Sicily to the mainland, as well as visit the caves of Matera and the east coast with Bari and Polignano a Mare, which is gorgeous.

And 3 days in Rome at the outset of your trip to get acclimated, then 5 days in Rome before you fly home is a luxury that should be savored. It's such a great place to chill & reflect, even with so much around.

FYI none of the train travel here is more than 4 hours in a day, day trips all less than an hour from a base, but there are a couple of 1 night stays as you see. And for a month in Italy--you have to see Sicily, which requires one short flight. It's that good.

Take this all with fun and a grain of salt, and enjoy your planning!

Posted by
28462 posts

I'm all for Sicily, but if you aren't seeing Siracusa and the Baroque towns in the southeast, you haven't allocated enough time to the island. And then there's Trapani/Erice. And the Greek and Roman sites. In other words, I think trying to squeeze in Matera, Puglia and Sicily is a bit much.

Posted by
2124 posts

I know, acraven, I know! That's why they say that to do the whole island, it takes a minimum of two weeks, three being better. I allotted 8 days which barely scratches the surface, but at least it's in Sicily.

Posted by
11613 posts

Save Sicilia for another trip when you can give it two or three weeks. I just spent 5.5 weeks in Sicilia, and public transportation takes longer than you might expect.

In a month, I would spend a week in Roma, a week in Napoli/Sorrento/islands, a week in Amalfi Coast/Salerno/Paestum, two or three nights in Matera, and four or five nights in Puglia (Lecce, the "white towns").

Posted by
490 posts

I agree that Sicily is it's own trip. I have spent weeks in the Naples region over the past 12 years...I love it, and I always go at the end of Sept to early October...you will love this time...usually still beach weather...but last year it was stormy...I will be in the area in mid September this year, hoping for better weather!

I always see Rome at the end of my trip before flying home: two reasons, it is crazy and not relaxing as is the south...and I like to shop and it is easier to pack and bring home than take all around with me. You do not want to do Rome jet lagged...the sooner you get to the coast the better the weather...Rome is perfect in October.

I am not a fan of day trips on longer stays.. fine when in the area for 3-5 days....so day tripping to Capri Ischia etc makes no sense when you have a whole month, settle in somewhere on the coast, where you can easily do day trips of 1 hour or less travel time...I recommend 3-4 nights on Ischia and 2-3 on Capri/Anacapri...

IMHO Sorrento is not special. It is a good place for a base on shorter trips to day trip to islands and Positano...but with the time that you have ....I recommend staying places like Positano and Ischia and Capri instead of $40 a pop to travel there for the day, and having limited time.

Ferries between Positano/Amalfi to Naples cut off at the end of September...

I love Ischia..I would start the trip here for 3- 4 nights...it has 4 major towns, is a volcanic island that has hot spring/spa hotels and free standing spas like Negumbo .I recommend the boat ride around the island to get a taste of the towns and then return to the ones you like. Other sites are Castle Aragonese and La Mortella/Russell Page gardens...great hiking too! If staying more than 3 nights you can take a day trip to Procida, a tiny island that has charm....go for lunch, 20 minute ferry from Ischia Porto.

From Ischia you take a ferry to Capri...stay 2-3 nights then ferry to Positano....work your way around the coast and either end up in Salerno take train back through Naples to Rome or simple take bus from Positano to train ( switch in Sorrento) to Naples then Rome.

Naples is a wonderful city..see RS show...it is worth a full day at least!
In box me for any more information.
Happy travels!

Posted by
11613 posts

I am in Napoli now and agree with JJ's advice about the islands. My experience with Napoli is that the more time you can give it, the more you will enjoy it.

Posted by
318 posts

With a month in southern Italy I would definitely include Matera. We did the RS Best of Southern Italy two years ago when we wanted to make a return trip. This tour took us to parts of the country that we had not visited as well as spending more time in cities that we had previously visited. When we first investigated the itinerary Matera looked like an interesting stop. What we found was an historical town that was nothing short of magical! I would love to make a return trip there one day!