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Stelvio Pass/Stilfser Joch worth the slight detour it?

We're going to be traveling in late June between Kastelruth in the Dolomites and the Berner Oberland and I'm wondering if a detour over the Stelvio Pass is worth the extra few hours of driving. The fast route is via the Brenner, Innsbruck, Arlberg and Zug/Luzern (basically 90% autobahn) and I've already done that twice. Alternatively, the route via Stelvio would be through Meran, Umbrail Pass into Switzerland, Zernez, Klosters and down Lake Zurich. I'd love to hear from someone out there that has driven over the pass(es).

Posted by
8889 posts

If you are there and are travelling by car, going over at least one high Alpine pass is an absolute must.

You have seen the passes in films, hairpin bends and shear drops protected only by stone crash barriers. You think, yes, the films make it look more spectacular than it is. I can assure you, it is more spectacular than the films show it. The driver has to keep his/her eyes on the road, the passenger gets the best views.
If you don't believe me look up "Stelvio Pass" on YouTube.

Note, the passes are closed by snow 6 months of the year. They are usually opened in May (big snow clearing exercise), and close again in November.

Posted by
2902 posts

Hi,

If you decide not to drive the Stelvio, I never have, and are staying near Kastelruth, drive the Gardena and Sella passes while in the Kastelruth area. The Dolomite passes are outstanding. Driven most in the area many times.

You could also drive to SterIng/Vipiteno maybe 30 min. From Katelruth and then head to the Timmelsjoch Pass into the Oetztal in Austria and on to Switzerland. The Timmelsjoch is an excellent pass to drive.

Just an opinion that you didn't ask for... I'd stay in the Alta Badia or even the Val Gardena instead of Kastelruth.

Paul

Posted by
78 posts

The route you wrote above is definitively worth a detour. I'd like to add some more options:

Once in Zernez, turn right till you reach Susch. Once there turn left and take the Flüela Pass road to Davos. You then have the choise of visiting the famous resort town on continuining toward Wolfgang Pass -> Klosters -> Landquart -> Zurich.

Posted by
12 posts

Thanks guys - great info! Chris and David, any input on Umbrailpass? Is it generally open in late June (we'll be crossing Stelvio the very last weekend in June). I've driven over a good number of passes in Switzerland (at one point in my life I lived in the Engadin), but Umbrail seems to a secondary pass compared to the others I've driven.

Posted by
78 posts

For my experience, Umbrail Pass follows pretty much the Stelvio pass schedule. If Stelvio is open so is Umbrail. The road is paved and suitable for any kind of car. In june they are both open.

Posted by
78 posts

If you're looking for a scary experience, GAVIA pass is the one for you.

A narrow (but paved) winding road, with endless rocky cliffs at your side and no railing whatsoever climbing to some 9000 ft above sea level.

Posted by
12 posts

David. No! My wife was already freaking out when we drove over the Furka pass (and there were barriers about every 10 Ft!

Posted by
78 posts

Come on, Furka Pass is a California highway!

Just for the sake of curiosity, try looking at Gavia Pass by using streetview. It is available along the whole route.

Posted by
12 posts

Its not me, its my wife. If you want a treat, drive the road between Martina and Samnaun on the Swiss/Austrian border. The road has single lane, curving tunnels underneath waterfalls. You basically have to look at the other side of the cliff, sound your horn and then proceed through the curving tunnel (and pray nobody is already in there). The short post buses navigate the route sounding their horns the entire way through - and watch the bare rocks on the tunnel walls so they don't scrape. I assume the road has been upgraded in the last 15 years but it was absolutely insane!

Posted by
78 posts

Stelvio Pass road is definitively better; there is a stone guard-rail protecting you from falling down, so your wife should be pretty comfortable with that.

Just for the sake of variety, you might follow these two itineraries:

1 from Meran, drive to Schluderns/Sluderno and follow the sign to Switzerland. Cross the border at Taufers/Tubre and stop over to have a look at the local monastery (Unesco World Heritage). Then drive through the beautiful Val Mustair all the way to Zernez.

2 from Meran, pass Schluderns/Sluderno and Mals/Malles, climb to Sankt Valentin auf dei Haide/San Valentino alla Muta and enjoy the view of the local lake. Procede north entering Austria at Nauders and then cross over to Switzerland following the signs pointing to Scuol. Then, follow the Raetische Bahn railroad tracks to Zerzez.

They're both very scenic alternatives, both "tested" by myself.

Posted by
500 posts

(Not to hijack this thread, but) I wonder what alternatives exist for someone visiting this area who would like the experience of driving a high alpine pass, but are not traveling by car. Are there tourism excursion companies that will give you a drive over such a pass without forcing the driver to sacrifice his experience by watching the road? I'm visiting Val Gardena / Siusi near Castelrotto in June.

Posted by
453 posts

There are many - Switzerland has a ton, but post buses are also common in Austria, Germany and in the Dolomites. Here's one that traverses a portion of the Stelvio: http://www.postauto.ch/en/pag-startseite/pag-reisen-und-freizeit/pag-freizeitklick/pag-angebote/pag-gl-stelvio-linie/pag-angebot-detail.htm

If you want a true adventure, there's a well known excursion done by the postal buses called the Dreipassefahrt. It crosses three of the most famous Swiss passes right in the heart of the alps: the Grimsel, Furka and Susten. Amazing. I've done it by car, but my father has done it by Postauto. Spectacular either way.

Here's the info: http://www.postauto.ch/en/pag-startseite/pag-reisen-und-freizeit/pag-freizeitklick/pag-angebote/pag-gl-furka-grimsel-sustenpass-linie/pag-angebot-detail.htm

Posted by
55 posts

Am I crazy to be driving the Stelvio Pass in early June? I thought it would be all clear by then. Am I wrong.

Posted by
78 posts

No, you are not. Early june would be fine, don't worry!

Posted by
78 posts

Stelvio Pass is regularly served by a local bus company called PEREGO. I checked their website, but the summertime schedule had not been uploaded yet. Most alpine passes in Italy are served by bus companies throughout the whole summer period, so you can plan your itinerary without driving a car on your own.

Posted by
2902 posts

Hi Cooper,

If you follow either of David's 2 routes, be sure to stop at Castle Coira/Churburg. One of our favorite castles. The small, medieval walled town of Glurns/Glorenza and the Convent St. John's in Mustair are both worthwhile also. We spent a few days based in Mals/Malles a few years back.

Paul

Posted by
78 posts

Paul,

you are right! The medieval village of Glurns/Glorenza is well worth a stop.