Stay in Amalfi, Positano or Sorrento? What would you do?

Stayed in Sorrento and loved it….walked the shops to see all of the lemons everywhere….we were exhausted when we arrived so we had a lovely day at the pool of our hotel but missed spending that day in Capri….will always regret that!…..took the bus to Amalfi and rode the boat back to Sorrento….bought a lovely oil painting in Amalfi. We had originally planned to stay in Positano but changed our plans when we felt like Sorrento would be easier to navigate on foot and have more to see. Enjoyed a delicious meal of crab ravioli on the water in Sorrento!

Thank you for such a quick response. That is my concern would it be easier to travel around from Sorrento We will be arriving from Naples on Sept 26 so I will arrange a private driver Then we will depart on Oct 1 and will head to Civitavecchia Port to board our cruise. I am hoping to see as much of the Amalfi coast as possible. I am just torn on location to stay! How long did it take you to get to Amalfi to visit. Could you do Amalfi and Atrani in the same trip. Thanks for your help

You’ve got it right. Amalfi is the transport hub of the coast. By staying there you’ll have easy access to everything you want to see. Sorrento should be off the table entirely. It is not on the Amalfi Coast. As it stands, you can ride the bus from Amalfi up to Ravello while folks in Sorrento are still queuing up for the hour plus bus ride to the coast.

I suggest Atrani as an option to consider. Atrani is a 20 min walk along the road from Amalfi. You still get the logistical convenience of Amalfi, but the town is much quieter and feels more local. Kind of late in the year, but Atrani has its own free beach. Popping down in the morning for a quick swim was a delight. Some very good restaurants there too. If you’re staying in Amalfi it’s worth a stroll for dinner.

Again thank you. This makes me feel lbetter about my reservation in Amalfi. So at this point if I leave things as they stand we will have a private driver pick us up at Naples airport and take to our Airbnb. When we leave we will have a driver take us to the Civitavechia Ship Port, which I believe is about 4 hours away. During the 4 days I was thinking of doing a boat tour to Capri (I am not sure I want or need to go into Capri) but want to see the coast from the water, maybe swim a bit off the boat etc. Your input is appreciated. Then do 1 day possibly walking to Atrani, Path of the Gods?, Amalfi area. Then a day for Positano and Ravello. Will the crowds still be crazy end of September? Would hiring a driver be the way to go to Positano & Ravello. What other, if any suggestions do you have.

There is considerable risk in waking up in Atrani for a ship that Embarks 1-4PM in Civitavecchia. This is at least a 4-seat ride by public transportation, and possibly more, and many miles. I would not even do that if I were staying in Sorrento. Sure, you could book a $600 private car, and sit in a car for five or more hours. Not so luxurious, is it? Unfortunately it is very cryptic to read, but I ran across this potentially helpful map that illustrates what I'm saying:

https://www.naplesbayferry.com/en/how-to-get-to-capri

We spent five nights in Sorrento, because it is, without dispute, the place with the best transportation options. (One exception only, Paestum UNESCO WHS is far away.) Sorrento is not a "beach town", and it is a post-war, purpose-built resort town. But in October, seasonal businesses will be starting to close, and I presume it will be cooler, both air and water. (I do not fly 7 hours, for $1,000, to go to the beach.) We hired a car and driver for 8 hours visiting Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. Yes, we negotiated "1:15 free time here", as if we were on a .... ... bus tour! But even though we paid a few hundred Euros for this, it turned out to be plenty of time in somewhat over-rated places. But places that "had to be seen."

I note that you did not mention Pompeii or Naples. As long as you considered and rejected them. It can be hard to find ferry schedules that show exactly the date they switch to the Off-Season program. I'd want to see that.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-2-weeks-of-day-trips-from-sorrento

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/amalfi-coast-for-5-days-where-to-set-base-from

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/amalfi-coast-for-7-nights-itinerary-help

Amalfi or Positano are the best bases for the Amalfi Coast.

I prefer Amalfi because it's the transportation hub of the coast and all the other towns are more ealsily accessible by bus and/or ferry. Positano is more scenic than Amalfi, but from Positano you have to go though Amalfi to get to the other towns. Positano is a fine base, but I prefer Amalfi.

However, Sorrento is not a good base at all because some AC towns are over 2 hours away and that's too long. Ravello for example is about 2.5 to 3 hours away meaning you cannot do Ravello from Sorrento as a day trip because Ravello needs about 4 hours to see both villas (Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone) and have lunch.

From Amalfi, these are the transportation times:

• Positano is 20 minutes
• Atrani is 10 minutes
• Ravello is 25 minutes
• Capri is 50 minutes

I was thinking of doing a boat tour to Capri (I am not sure I want or need to go into Capri)

Capri is gorgeous, just as beautiful as the Amalfi Coast. I recommend taking the ferry on your own rather than a tour. Visit Villa San Michele, Giardini di Augusto and Monte Solaro and skip the tour around the island with blue grotto. The boat tour is nice, but it takes too long and the other things are nicer.

Would hiring a driver be the way to go to Positano & Ravello.

To Positano you can take the ferry or the bus. I preferred the ferry because the views of the coast and towns from the ferry are spectacular.

To Ravello, taking the bus from Amalfi is very easy.

You don't need to hire a driver.

We spent 2 weeks in Sorrento and loved it, however our focus was more Pompeii, Naples, etc with only 2 daytrips to the AC. Transportation is a time sucking reality of your trip so if your focus is strictly the Amalfi Coast then I would stay in Amalfi

So much more to think about. If I shortened my stay by one day, departing on Sept 30 I would want to head towards the Civitavecchia Port. Would we take a ferry or train, or would private hire still be the best. Would there be a place along a train route or ferry that would be worth spending the night and next morning before having to go to the port. I just hate to loose 2 days back to back on basically moving to next location. Thank you

So I am back, making myself nuts!!!!! What if we hired a driver, leaving on Sept 30 and stopped at Pompeii? We could do visit on our own then continue on towards the Civitavecchia Port and spend night, Board ship next day. Thoughts

Every hour you pay a driver to sit in the car with your luggage costs actual money. That said, lots of people see Pompeii in transit. But most of them are doing it to save touristing time. You'd be doing it because you stayed in a remote town. You may be tired, hot and sweaty, even if you only spend two hours (the bare, absolute minimum) on the hot stones of Pompeii.

I don't retract my emphasis on how "far" Atrani is from Civitavecchia, but you are slightly off base in thinking of a road stop (especially without a car rental) for a trip within a tiny section of Italy. BTW, I have never set foot in Atrani, but you might want to find out if you are actually going to see diminutive widows in black, shopping with a wicker basket on their arm, in Atrani. Or is it just going to be Positano without the Ralph Lauren?

The problem is the infrastructure, as much as the distance. Tivoli, for instance, is a very rewarding stop, but most people do it as a bus or train trip from sleeping in Rome - not from the Amalfi Coast. And you still have the CITY of ROME between you and the port, the next morning. (It's a safe trip time-wise, Tivoli-Civitavecchia, I just mean that you don't have a whole morning in Tivoli for sightseeing, as you would if you were sleeping in Rome. Vast numbers of people wake up in Rome and take a car service to Civitavecchia after an early Lunch. And all of them grind their teeth at the travel agent who failed to warn them how remote Civitavecchia is from Rome. Wild guess, 150=175 Euros. How much luggage to cram in a sedan's trunk, BTW?

Think less about Ubering home from a bar to your house three nights a week, and more about that $600 car from Atrani to Civitavecchia. I would not pay all that money to sit in a car for five or more hours. But a 4-seat ride is quite a shock to someone who lives in a Captain's Chair with an automatic transmission, going from flute lessons to private soccer coaching.

Tim, I am now confused even more. I was just throwing out Pompeii. What would you suggest for us departing on Sept 30th? With what mode of transportation. I agree with you I dont want to pay a driver to sit, that being said what other options if any would you think I have. Does it make the most sense to hire a driver from Amalfi to Civitavecchia. Thanks!!

I would never tell anyone nor to visit Pompeii, but I would be disappointed with a short visit there. We spent 12 hours over 2 days and I want to go back. I know that is probably more than most want, but a 2 hour whirlwind would only be a good start.

This was 10 years ago on our first European adventure but we spent 1.5 days in Civitavecchia before hoping on a cruise. Thinking back, the town is nothing special, but we were mesmerized for a 1st time trip. A private driver from Amalfi would be pricey, multiple trains will be much cheaper, but inconvenient. There is no answer that fits all, but I would likely make the trip in one day and enjoy the port for a day.

Cheryl, I'm sorry if you thought my enumeration of the pluses and minuses seemed like a contradiction. All I meant was that the decision to stop for 2 to 4 hours at Pompeii isn't a slam dunk.

You hadn't even mentioned Pompeii until I brought it up, but I don't mean to tell you what you wanna do on your vacation. I wanted you to know you might be spending the next 3 hours soaking in your own sweat in the car, that's all!

By the way, it's better not to use the word Amalfi to mean Amalfi Coast. We can't tell if you mean Amalfi town or "someplace yet to be designated on the Amalfi Coast."

Telling people they should stay "someplace else" is denigrated on this news board. If this were my trip, I would stay in Sorrento because you wanna make day trips. You have to decide whether the slightly thinner crowds and the actual sand beach instead of pebbles in Positano or Amalfi justifies the, remote and more expensive day trips from Atrani.

I would spend the night before the cruise in Rome, as I proposed. I only proposed Tivoli because you asked for a stop.

Ok. Thank you. I have decided that we will leave for the port on Sept 30 and stay in town enjoying that area. As for Pompeii I can do that from the cruise if I choose as we port in Naples for one of the stops. One in our party has already been, so it is really not a top priority that is why I was not really considering, until I though on the drive. However good points were made for the remaining drive to the port being tired and sweaty. So this is my plan. We are staying in an airbnb in Amalfi town, The address is Salita Apotheca 2 ( I am told near the hotel Cavalieri/Bellevue) if that gives an idea to location. We will do one day exploring Amalfi, Atrani and what ever else is in that area. Maybe a lemon trail, or Path of the Gods. Then we will do Positano and Ravello (I would take suggestions on how to visit) Thinking ferry from Amalfi to Positano. Then bus if available to Ravello or taxi? I guess then bus back to Airbnb. Then final day explore Capri and see the coast from the water, maybe some swimming, So do you think I need to book Capri a head of time I was hoping I could wait till closer and chose the best weather day. Then on the morning of the 29th I will have a private transfer arranged to take us to a hotel/airbnb in Civitavecchia. On a side note if I can squeeze in Priano in I will. So now give me your thoughts as I have taken Sorrent and Pompeii out of the equation and think I am on my way to making some final plans. Any must eat in restaurants, stores, experience etc. We just returned for 3 weeks in Munich, Prague & Budapest so I have done and learned a lot about history!!!

It is not necessary to sleep in forgettable, banal Civitavecchia. But you have not reported on the Embarcation hours, or whether you go to the Cruise Terminal or (perhaps for a small boat) to a private pierhead, which takes longer:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/rome-airport-to-port-outside-of-rome

There is a half-hourly (??) public bus from Amalfi town to Ravello. Positano is unrelated to Ravello in any way. Ravello has no beach or corniche because it is hundreds of feet higher elevation than the AC towns.

So it takes two different half-hourly busses from Positano to Ravello, and you are almost home. Note that the bus (if used) to Positano "starts" in Amalfi town.

I have not been successful in finding a PDF of any of the MULTIPLE ferry company schedules to make sure that there are enough (destinations of) ferries from Amalfi in the shoulder season. I just don't know the answer. This area is always busy, but this is not peak season. By the END of October, many ferry routes simply don't run.

I would highly encourage you to keep your original plan of staying in Amalfi until the 1st. Cutting it short would be a shame and unnecessary. All of the places that you want to visit are on the Amalfi coast, so it makes no sense to stay in Sorrento, which is not on the Amalfi coast. You can walk over to Atrani from Amalfi in five minutes and if you want to walk up to Ravello for a great workout, that takes around 45 minutes. Mind you, it’s all stairs and not for the out of shape; but the views are just spectacular.

I have taken transports several times via Ravello Taxi and other operators to/from Naples and Rome. You’ll be fine on the day of as long as you give yourself an hour cushion.

As far a time of embarkment I will not know until 25 days prior. I have been told by Royal caribbean that it will be between 11:30-5:30. When you check in 25 days prior you are assigned a time So my thought was to leave Amalfi via private driver, I have been quoted 650 Euros for the 4 of us. I felt if we left around 6:30 AM that would put us at Civitavecchia Port around 11:30 if we happened to get that boarding time. If our time is later that we will just have to wait. I am questioning the whole visit to the coast. I have done Cinque Terre so maybe go else where for my 5 days. I am usually quite proficient in planning as I do all our trips. Just having a hard time with Amalfi! Not sure why, So I am really thinking of heading out 1 day early and allowing enough time to get to the port.

You can do Ravello and Positano from Amalfi the same day. I did it one day this past April:

• took the bus from Amalfi to Ravello about 9am
• took the bus from Ravello to Amalfi about 2pm
• took the ferry from Amalfi to Positano about 3:30pm
• took the bus back to Amalfi about 7pm

Of all the options before you, I encourage you to give Path of the Gods a miss. It’s going to be most of a day, is not as easy as it’s made out to be, and the views (while great) are basically the same as you get from Ravello. It was my singular regret from the entire trip. It’s just a real tough trade off considering everything else around. And just fyi, the bus to Ravello from Amalfi town is cheap and easy. Ravello should remain at or near the top of the list.

You don’t need to book standard ferry tickets (like to Capri) ahead. Even buying a ticket in the morning for a late afternoon ferry drew some quizzical looks. If you want to ensure a certain boat then go ahead, but you don’t need to do that before you leave or anything.

Because you are staying relatively close to Ravello (if one could say that about a 20 minute walk and a bus ride), you might want to book dinner in Ravello, say at Il Flauto De Pan, and enjoy the spectacular twilight views (including from the restaurant) after a walk around Ravello. You'd have to check the church/villa/garden hours, and you might have to ask the hotel to call for a pricey cab home, if the bus doesn't run late. I have NOT walked along the only two-lane road on the AC, but it might be unsafe to use a road with no sidewalks at dusk. (??)

Well Marco, Awrzesiniki & Tim I thank you. Love the thought of Dinner at sunset at Ravello. Ravello is on the top of my list. As far as Capri I am not set on going, what I do what to do is make sure we get to see the Amalfi Coast from the water. Do you have any thoughs on the island Iscahia (spelling could be off). As for the Path of the Gods I have done a lot of research and I agree it means giving up to much of the day when I know I will be getting spectacular views in many places. Do you have any input on the Lemon Trail? Seems like it is about about a 2K and a nice walk even with the 400 stairs! Still have not decided if we are leaving for the ship port on Sept 30th or Oct 1. I am just a little worried we could have a problem and miss boarding.... Looking forward to your input.

Do you have any input on the Lemon Trail? Seems like it is about about
a 2K and a nice walk even with the 400 stairs!

We did it, and your description is accurate. You follow a paved path between Minori and Maori that goes through lemon groves. I had this romantic vision of grassy trails underneath the branches of the lemon trees, but the path keeps you separated from them. It was a nice walk but not an unforgettable walk.

We only spent 1.5 hours in each town, so I have no hiking trail info.

We did the Path Of the Gods on our 2nd trip to the Amalfi Coast while we were based in Positano.
It was the highlight of our trip. Amazing views(we did with a guide) and it took up a morning not the whole day if you are wondering.

The first trip we stayed in Ravello. Also wonderful But we loved Positano more.

I can't imagine staying in Sorrento and missing the true experience of being on the coast at nighttime and early morning. Breathtaking!

I think the town of Amalfi is also a good choice.

Again Thank you all for the input, Im getting close. I am happy we are staying in Amalfi and am very exicited to see Ravello. Now just need to decide on whick day we should leave.

Not to be a downer here, but consider the possibility that there might be rough seas during your visit, as was the case when I was there last year in May which can severely impact your visit. We stayed in Amalfi for two days, arriving by ferry from Salerno in very rough seas. The ferries do not run if the sea is too rough. When it was time to go to Positano, all ferries were cancelled. Plan B was to take the bus but of course with no ferries, the bus was packed by the time it got to Amalfi so it did not stop. Plan C was a taxi but of course, there were none available, for hours. Back to the ferry line and after a while the sea calmed enough that they brought in the biggest ferry to make one run to Positano at the end of the day. Many passengers got sea sick and when we tried to dock it was very dicey as the gang plank would swing wildly between banging on the shore and being in the air. Eventually we got off feeling horrible. It remained stormy for our two days in Positano which killed our planned day trips and when it was time to depart to catch out train in Salerno, it was the same scenario, no ferries running which meant the buses were full and would not stop and the line at the taxi stand was a block long with a 3 hour wait, if you were lucky. We eventually had a van stop at the taxi line and said he had room for six people to Salerno and we jumped in, gladly paying the 100 euro's each to get out of Positano. I felt completely trapped there and very frustrated with the lack of infrastructure to support such a large number of tourists. You can't control the weather but having more buses and taxis available would be a help. I would seriously consider staying in Sorrento to avoid this possible nightmare scenario as the weather is less predictable during Sept - Oct and the train in Sorrento is available there to get you to your next destination. Best wishes for a great trip.

We stayed in Sorrento for our base and loved it. It's a really lovely town with easy access to the whole of the Amalfi coast. We hired a driver (RS recommended) one day to take us all along the coast. We had at least 2 hrs each in Positano and Amalfi Town, then another 3+ in Ravello where we had a lovely lunch, a tour around town and visited the Villa Cimbrone gardens (stunning!) It was a full, but lovely and relaxing day where we never felt rushed. Our driver also took us to another town called Scala. Another day, we took a small boat tour to, and around, Capri. It was really lovely and Capri is stunning! I will say it was easier to get back to Rome from Sorrento than it would be from one of the smaller towns however, you said you were hiring a private driver so that may be a non issue. I think your choice of Amalfi Town will be great but I wanted to give a perspective on Sorrento should you chose to change to that direction and know that all is very doable from Sorrento as well. Have a great trip!

harry b and Kimberlysea Thanks for your thoughts. As for rough weather, out of my control so I chose not to worry about it, but will have back up ideas. At this point the Airbnb we have rented is lovely spacious with a view. I have no problem if I have to spend a little time that way. Not planning on doing to much with the ferry's as from AMalfi we can walk to Atrani and spend time in Amalfi by foot. If crowds are crazy we will not go to Capri maybe Iscahia if times and weather allows. I will have a driver taking us to Civitavecchia Port so that will eliminate some worry. I think we have decided to depart on Sept 30 and stay one night close to port. That gives us 3 full days in AMalfi and will hope for decent weather. Hopefully some of the crowds will be down a bit seeing were are last few days of September. We are seasoned travelers and will make it work. I take away so much great info from these posts.... fingers crossed the trip will be amazing and I will be able to give tips when I return.