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St Paul’s Within or Without?

What’s the difference between the two churches of St Paul? One is within the walls & I have a reservation to see a concert in May. I’ve come across another St Paul’s outside the wall. I understand St. Paul is buried there. What’s the easiest way to visit? Is this where a Christian puts their hand inside the mouth of a stone lion? What movie was that scene in? Are there any concerts or events at the church outside the wall? Are there any events in the Baths of Caracalla in May? Looks like the operas don’t begin until June? Thank you!

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4657 posts

What’s the difference between the two churches of St Paul? Well, the first is Episcopalian and the second is RC. The first completed in 1880, and the second consecrated in the 4th century.

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5498 posts

Is this where a Christian puts their hand inside the mouth of a stone
lion? What movie was that scene in?

This is called the Mouth of Truth. Its outside the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church in the Piazza della Bocca della Veritas. It was in a scene from Roman Holiday.

For any events being held in a given location, start by going to their official web page.

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28249 posts

I wanted to see the mosaic floor at Santa Maria in Cosmedin, so I had an opportunity last month to see the line at the Bocca della Verita. It was substantial, though I'd guess it moved pretty quickly (bet everyone was taking a photograph, though; the 2-euro fee allows one photo). There was no line for the church. I think the hours are 0930-1830 daily, but there might be some seasonal variation. I don't think there was a fee to see the church. If you go to see the Bocca della Verita, it's worth popping into the church while you're there.

From my sightseeing notes for Rome:

Basilica Papale San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Outside the Walls), Via Ostiense 190/Piazza San Paolo 1: Mostly 19C reconstruction after 1823 fire; 13C marble tabernacle survives. 5C triumphal arch with heavily restored mosaics. Stunning 13C polychrome stone mosaic work on columns in cloisters of adjacent Benedictine abbey. Daily 0700-1830. Cloisters €4. www.basilicasanpaolo.org

San Paolo dentro le Mura (Within the Walls), Via Nazionale 16a: Built 1880s. Ravenna-inspired mosaics by Edward Burne-Jones. AKA the "American Church". Mon-Fri 1000-1600.

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St. Paul Outside the Walls is truly an amazing church if you have an extra half day. Easily accessible by public transport. It was heavily restored in the 19th century, but the sheer size and scale of the building will give you an impression of early Christian churches and basilicas.

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St. Paul outside the Wall was one of our favorites of our trip....totally worth it! It was incredibly special to be where Paul was entombed. There is also an optional cloister that is beautiful and worth the extra 2Euro pp.

Take Metro Line B (blue) from Roma Termini toward Laurentina and get off at the aptly-named Basilica San Paolo stop (6th stop). It takes about 11 min.

After you get off the train platform, head toward the exit. Once outside, go left on that road, and probably left again to go under the overpass. Head right on Via Ostiense and follow that road a hundred meters or so until you see a bell tower on your right and a big entrance will open up. Be warned that you exit the building from a different side, so if your cell phone dies (like it did for us!), just ask the police/security hanging around there for the road that leads you back to the train. For us it was three right hand turns when exiting near the gardens/gift shop. When you head back to Termini, you take the train toward Rebibbia (I believe....they are all named by the direction of their end of the line). It was super easy and cheap. I didn't need a half day, but I would figure in 2.5 hrs from start to finish (including waiting for trains later in the day).

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7998 posts

Baths of Caracalla: here’s a report https://www.wantedinrome.com/news/rome-opera-house-baths-of-caracalla-summer-festival.html about upcoming music performances; looks like the first one is May 30, 2023 - Zucchero is performing as part of his worldwide tour, but that’s not opera.

Last September, we went to see the Baths in the afternoon, and some parts were roped off, as speakers and sound and light systems were being set up, long catering tables with wine glasses were being installed inside the ruins and in the garden area in the back, and strolling musicians were starting to set up and rehearse. My guess is that it was some huge, but private function. Announcements for 15 minutes before closing were working to get us tourists out of there, so the festivities could begin for the attendees. There must be frequent “events,” but not always available to the paying public.