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Spello vs. Perugia

In September, will be making our way by train south from Modena to Caserta (near Naples). We will be avoiding the “usual suspects” like Bologna and Firenze (we love Bologna and avoid Florence, and do not need to stop in either ). We have 2 nights to spend on the way. I have read so much about Spello and how nice it is, and photos are attractive, but Perugia would be a bit easier to reach (saving travel time) and also looks good. Can you help me make a choice? In other words, is it worth the extra time to get to Spello for just 2 nights?

We may well be able to return and visit the other, as we tend to visit Italy 1 or 2 times a year, but we are getting to the age when the number of visits may be limited. We do not need to have “the best” this trip, just the one that offers a best fit for now, and some things of interest.

What we enjoy in Italy:: walking around, no matter how hilly; charming small towns with narrow pedestrian lanes to wander; some opportunity to explore history and local culture; wine bars and small trattorias for dinner; and friendly small hotels with modern design and facilities. Small quirky museums a plus. Or maybe a local festival in September. My husband speaks decent Italian, and this has led to pleasant interactions with the locals in many places.

Thank you for your suggestions and advice.

Posted by
1254 posts

We've stayed in both and if I was choosing I'd go with Perugia.

I don't recall any museums in Spello and the oldtown is a relatively small set of streets on a hillside. Perugia is larger and a regional center with some flat area at the top, also since you won't have a car Perugia has a minimetro from the train station up to the oldtown. In Spello you're likely hoofing it to/from the train station. It would be easier to do a daytrip by bus or train from Perugia and they have a helpful staffed TI office.

We used Spello as a base with a car and it was fine for that, but I think in a few hours you can see everything there is to see so if I was in one of these towns for a full day I'd rather spend it in Perugia.

Incidentally there is an author who spent a year with her family in Spello and wrote a book about it, along with a bunch of blog posts. See https://michelledamiani.com/spello/

Posted by
211 posts

Perugia for me. Spello is pretty, that's for sure. But it doesn't have the cultural heft and things to do. Perugia is a lively college town, with lots of art exhibitions, concerts, museums, shops, bars, and restaurants. And not only Italian/Umbrian restaurants. The downtown is up on a hill but is flat once you're there. It's a friendly place. Spello is adorable, but its on a hill and because it faces west can get really hot. It's definitely worth a visit, but Perugia is a good provincial capital.

Posted by
16133 posts

Perugia has a city feel, not a village feel.
Spello has a village feel.
So it depends on your preference.
If you have a car, I'd prefer Spello, since you can visit the towns easily and not worry too much about traffic, although the historic core has traffic restrictions (but it's small). Perugia is not too car friendly and traffic can get nasty at commute time and they have lots of restricted zones. I like Perugia's historical center, but not so much outside the historical center in the newer areas (lots of high rise apartment buildings).
If you rely on public transportation, then Perugia is logistically a better choice because it's the regional hub for trains and buses going all over Umbria.

Posted by
272 posts

I much prefer Spello, especially with a car. The town itself is beautiful and offers gorgeous views. The mosaic museum is ver well done and it’s a lovely town to stroll through. Perugia is one of the few places in Umbria that I didn’t care for.

I’d throw Assisi into the mid as well. Of course you can readily visit it from Spello but it would also be a good base. Plenty there to fill two days.

Posted by
17562 posts

Thank you to all. This is very helpful. To clarify our needs and wishes—we will not have a car; we are enthusiastic walkers and do not mind hills at all. With two nights we have only one full day there, so we do not need a whole lot to do, but we do like some kind of historic or cultural highlights, and are interested in learning about those. We also enjoy the evening passeggiata where people follow that custom.

I will admit that I was attracted to Spello by photos of charming narrow streets winding among stone buildings with arched doorways, many with potted plants decorating the steps. But I do not want to be seduced by the “Instagram effect” or end up in a place too crowded with day-trippers to enjoy—- like what we experienced in Cinque Terre.

Posted by
7879 posts

Lola, I have stayed in both and agree with the previous comments. If you do go to Perugia, try to go to the Moretti Caselli Studio - an amazing live museum since the family still works there. The details are in this trip report from my trip last year. I sent them an email, so they knew I was coming.

Also, I really liked the hotel I stayed at in Perugia - both for its handy location, and the modern well-run ambiance. Also, a very nice breakfast!

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-please-do-not-comment-until-i-change-the-title-filling-in-the-report-thanks