I am in Assisi every July for a music festival so I am very prejudiced in favor of this special place. Spello is indeed beautiful but it never looked to me like a place for the evening hours. I may be wrong, it's just my thought. Assisi, especially the Piazza Comune is a great evening spot. Our hotel for the festival is right down the street towards Basilica Santa Chiara so every evening until at least midnight we are out in the piazza. You may, especially on the weekend, have groups of young people singing and dancing and playing instruments - they are on religious retreat and are having a blast. Just about everyone else will be locals, some tourists, enjoying the cool evening air. Plenty of places for a snack, a gelato, a cool drink, a coffee or even a meal. The shop keepers are very welcoming but, typical of Italy, service can be slow. They aren't going to bother you, and you aren't bothering them. It's ok to signal the staff when you are ready to order. Remember, the table is yours for the evening which means they are in no hurry to bring you the check so you'll make room for someone else. Assisi is a very safe place to roam around at night. Try this: at the end of the Piazza you'll see two roads - one on the left going steeply down, the other on the right going up. Take the upper road. Go until the road either goes straight through an ancient Roman gate or turns a sharp u-turn. Take the u-turn and right in front of you is, all lit up, the Basilica San Francesco. Where the road T's out, turn left and climb UP back to the Piazza Comune. Now, where else can you walk UP HILL in both directions!?! Some amazing views along the way! Enjoy.
