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Southern Italy Itinerary

We have 34 days for our trip starting mid January. We are flying into Naples and out of Rome. We are in our early/mid 60s. We like unique/special, one of a kind places. We like scenery, churches, mosaics, frescoes, historic old towns, food and wine. We've become less interested in ruins and castles, unless they involve mosaics, frescoes, or unique photo ops. We will have a car for part of the trip. A concern is time of year. We love the idea of fewer people, but don't want to visit deserted places. Another concern is parking. We tend to enjoy midsized to smaller cities and staying in or close to city center.

Working Itinerary:
*Arrive Naples and go to Caserta, 2 nights, pick up car somewhere that makes sense, side trip to Sant Agata de Goti
*Drive to "Bari Area" (possible towns, Polignanao, Trani, Monopoli, Ostuni)
*Drive to Alberobello area (Possible neighboring towns Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca, Ceglie Messapica), leaning towards staying in Locorotondo.
*Drive to heel of the boot. Interested in Lecce, Otrano, Gallipoli and Nardo)
*Drive to Matera area, possibly via Grottaglie and possibly visiting Chiesa San Michele of the caves, Altamura
*Drive to Naples possibly via Pietrapertosa and Pietragalla, Return car, Naples 3 nights,
*Train to Orvieto, 2 nights
*Train/bus to Rome 3 nights

We tend to like shorter stays in more towns. We don't like long day trips and we like to experience some places early and later in the day. We like to visit unique places and would like to avoid similar towns.

We have been to Rome, Pompeii, Sorrento, Amalfi. If we find ourselves with additional time and if Umbria will have "some activity" that time of year, we may be interested in visiting towns neighboring Orvieto.

Questions:
*We like to pick up and return a car in less busy locations. So, like, not in the middle of Naples. Suggestion for car pickup/return?
*The beach towns south of Bari look gorgeous. Will they be pretty and interesting in January?
*Best cities to overnight? We tend to like to be closer to city centers, but would like easy access to parking. We want to visit Bari, but we do not necessarily need to stay there. We are not adverse to adding more overnight stops, though typically not one night stays.
*Suggestions on specific places to stay? We tend to like smaller hotels and BnBs. We tend to not like AirBnBs for many reasons including not having access to a host for questions and suggestions.
*In Naples, we are interested in the archeology museum, pizza and a walking tour of city center including churches. Any suggestions of where to stay? Location or specific hotel.
*We did have some interest in the Gargano Peninsula but will likely not include because it is farther away and may not be interesting in January??
*Special places that I've overlooked?

I know Jean "of Idaho" is planning a similar trip and I've looked at several of her excellent posts. I am hoping to get information more tailored to a January/February visit. We do have similar travel "philosophies" in that we do fewer daytrips and stay in more locations.

Posted by
17477 posts

Hi Jules—-if you are not set on staying in Bari itself, I can highly recommend the little boutique hotel in nearby Barletta, where we spent a night on our Puglia trip in February/March 2023.

https://www.bbliddo.it/en/

Antonella is a delightful hostess, and we met her mother and business partner as well. Our room, the “Deluxe”, was a corner room with light from large windows (maybe actually French doors) on two sides. Everything was very modern and tasteful. You get one keycard that admits you to the outer door into the patio, the main building door, and your pwn private room. We did not have a car, but I see on the website that they offer secure parking for a small additional fee.

We enjoyed one of the best dinners in all our Italy travels at Twine, a Ristorante and Wine Bar in the downtown area of Barletta. We joined the locals in the passeggiata, stopped in a shop to buy a leather belt for my husband, and arrived at the ristorante only to find they did not start serving dinner until 9 pm. But the wine bar was in operation so we were seated and treated to a free glass of wine each while we waited.

https://www.twineristorantevineria.it/

If we are ever back in Puglia I will make a point of returning to Barletta and these 2 places.

The other suggestions I can offer are places we have not actually stayed; I originally booked them for our September 2024 trip but had to cancel the southern Italy part. I chose them on the basis of location, ambiance, and ratings/reviews, and I would choose them again if we make that trip.

In Caserta, the Artistic Charming House, a guesthouse with 6 rooms, stands out.

https://www.artisticcharminghouse.com/?lang=en

It is close to the palace, and they offer “discounted parking”.

My plan for Napoli was Hotel Piazza Bellini:

https://www.hotelpiazzabellini.com/

This is just 2 blocks south of the Museo Archeologico. I found the photos and reviews irresistible. They were very kind when I asked to cancel and said they hope we come another time. I do too.

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17477 posts

As for beach towns south of Bari, we only visited Monopoli and Polignano al Mare. They are quite different. Due to the cliffs at Polignano; the water is deep right from the shore. At Monopoli, the shallower water underlain by white rock/sand creates coves with that beautiful aqua color you can see in photos and on Google satellite view. My husband even found a place to swim there—-in February! It should be just as lovely in January if you pick a sunny day to visit.

In either case, in January there will be few tourists and many shops and restaurants will have limited opening hours.

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17477 posts

If you like pizza, there are two placers in and near Caserta that have won awards as “Best Pizza in the World” the past few years:

https://thebestchefawards.com/2023/09/24/franco-pepe-is-the-winner-of-the-best-pizza-awards-2023/

https://www.pepeingrani.it/en

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/worlds-best-pizza-caserta-italy

https://cookingwithmichele.com/2024/05/visiting-franco-pepe-at-pepi-in-grani/

We first heard about Pepe in Grani from our neighbor, who is serious about cooking, and eating, Italian food. I hoped to go there while in Caserta on our 2024 trip (the one we canceled), although it would have been difficult without a car. But for you it would be easy.

Posted by
400 posts

Sounds like a pretty good trip with lots of towns we saw and lots that are unfamiliar to me. And, with 34 days, mostly in Puglia and between there and Naples, you’ll have plenty of time.

Question, why two days out of the area, beyond Rome to Orvieto?

Re rental car, I don’t know what winter driving will be like in Basilicata. That would concern me as we saw some snow high in the mountains in mid to late April. So take a look at that.

Also re rental car, we drove from Lecce to Matera, to the Cilento region and then on to Naples to return our car. (That involved four lovely days). We set the return to be at the airport. The last 4 km to the airport took an hour. If you do that, gas up 5 or 10 miles before the airport in Naples, as there is an insane number of one way roads and other traffic insanity to aggravate your effort to return the car at the airport. By and large, the drives through Basilicata and the Cilento were lovely as far as Paestum and pretty crummy after Paestum.

Maybe it’s better to return the car in Salerno and take the train from there??? Unless you are approaching Naples from the east or north, rather than the south.

Anyway, you are right that there is good info in the responses to Jean.

Posted by
6506 posts

Hi Fred, thanks so much for your thoughts. At this point, I'm feeling a little nervous about this trip. Its such a good time frame for my husband and I to travel, and we love Europe. I thought Puglia would be a good choice for that time of year, but having some second thoughts. I've been interested in visiting Naples and Puglia for a while, now, I hope if has some energy. . .

Why are we tacking on a bit of Umbria? On our first trip to Italy, we had almost four weeks, but ended up having to chose between Siena and Orvieto. We chose Siena and loved it, but still would like to see Orvieto. Depending on the itinerary for the southern area, I may add some additional time in Umbria, we'll see. Also, we spent a week in Rome, but there were a few places we didn't see, that we'd like to, plus, we did like Rome so a bit of time there is appealing.

In regards to the rental car, I initially thought about driving from Matera or Bari to Orvieto and nixed that for multiple reasons including any possible winter issues. Given your comments about driving, I think I may look at returning in Salerno, and I will check into Basilcata winter driving.

@Lola, as always, we really appreciate your thoughts, and the effort to include links! We do like our pizza, though I make a pretty good one, myself! We've mostly been disappointed in the pizza in Italy, maybe we haven't gone to the right places. We did have some great pizza in Trapani and in Castelrotto in the Dolomites. I look forward to checking out your recommendations.

Lola, The linked restaurant looks quite appealing. I think we will stay in Locorotondo, but, sadly your recommendation is closed in January. But, I really like the idea of staying there over Alberobello. Given your thoughts on Monopoli, I'm going to do some searching there. I sure would like to at least wade, this Minnesota girl can handle some cool water temps! I'm sure we will do some visiting of the coastal towns, but sure would like some idea of what to expect for late January.

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17477 posts

Jules—-in response to your “second thoughts” about January travel, I will note that part of our time there in February was with a Road Scholar tour on “Winter in Italy; Puglia’s Hidden Gems”. They run that tour in December and January (the third week, from Jan 20-27) as well as in February (3 different weeks there),so that suggests to me that January is not lacking in energy and attractions.

Here is a link to that trip if you want to see what they say about winter in Puglia, and what the tour members see and do in that time.

https://www.roadscholar.org/find-an-adventure/23004/Winter-in-Italy-Puglia-s-Hidden-Gems/dates/

If you would like to stay in Monopoli, would you be interested in an Albergo Diffuso? I tried a “test booking” and they are offering rooms in January:

https://albergodiffusomonopoli.it/en

If you want to wade in the Adriatic, the little beach where my husband swam would be a good spot. To reach it, we followed the pedestrian path along the water south from the Monopoli oldtown area, past the rocky beach right there (labeled “Cala Porto Vecchio” on google maps). People were sunning themselves and swimming off the rocks there, but that did not look appealing, so we kept going to the little cove I had seen on Satellite View.

The path left the waterside at one point and down a narrow residential street for a block, then popped back out at the beach in a little cove, labeled “Porto Bianco” on the satellite view map. There is a wooden ramp down to the sand; you don’t have to scramble over rocks. Photos of this little beach taken in August show it packed with people and umbrellas, but winter photos show it empty. There were maybe 10 other people there the day we went, most of them just sitting in the sand enjoying the sunshine. Only one other person went in to swim, a British woman who stayed in even longer than my husband did.

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1155 posts

Hi Jules - Have you considered visiting Paestum? These are not just any ruins. :) Plus, you can visit buffalo farms, pet the animals and see how the cheese is made in its origin. We stayed at https://www.tenutaducamarigliano.it/en-gb/boutique-hotel-paestum-en/ and it was lovely. The restaurant there is AMAZING. Highly recommend. I emailed to arrange a tour at this buffalo farm https://www.tenutavannulo.com/, which was very cool and fun. Nice cafe, too. .

We also stayed in Naples at https://www.hotelpiazzabellini.com/. Our room was the least expensive category and it was a little dorm-like, but I think the better rooms are very nice. It's in a fantastic location and has a lovely courtyard and a very good breakfast.

Posted by
6506 posts

Well, my dad always said that things look better in the morning!

Lola, I love the looks of Albergo Diffuso. I did see it on booking last night. My guess would be that there is no parking, but I'm sure they can suggest something. The fact that Rhodes scholars does do tours in the winter is encouraging, thanks.

So, two votes now for Piazza Bellini, sounds like a plan.

Celeste, thanks for the tips. I'll take another look at Paestum. We have done a lot of ruins--Rome, Ostia Antica, Pompeii, Sicily, Athens, Ephesus, Olympia, Troy, probably some I'm forgetting.

Posted by
1576 posts

Hi Jules!

I can see why you'd be a bit nervous about this trip, because I have the same feelings about the trip we're planning for 35 days in Sicily starting in March --- there's a lot to figure out! And the delights of off-season can get over-shadowed by worries about things being closed and streets being deserted (by the way, streets often ARE a bit deserted in towns in Puglia in the afternoons).

Hotel Piazza Bellini looks like it’s about one block (a tiny NAPLES block) from the apartment where we stayed in Naples and it was a really great neighborhood, close to everything we wanted to do. Naples will be bustling in January since it's a 365-day city, not a beach or tourist town, and I bet Lecce will be, too.

We dropped our rental car at the Naples airport after one trip to Puglia and I don’t think we had any trouble. If you are used to navigating in Italy, it should be an OK pick-up location.

We drove all around the point roundtrip from Lecce one November, hugging the coast, and all of the beach towns looked sad and closed-up. We did take a walk on a totally deserted beach and that was pleasant. We visited Polignano a Mare one March (or early April) and parked in a huge empty parking lot and played around on the pebble beach with maybe half a dozen other fully clothed people.

We enjoyed Bari as a day trip and that seemed like enough. Ostuni was our favorite town to stay in, with Lecce a close second. Ostuni parking was down the hillside, Lecce’s can be just outside the city walls and easy to walk to.

I’ve probably already told you how much we loved staying in our own trullo at Masseria Aprile very near Locorotondo.

We liked Trani a lot for its Romanesque church located right on the water and its night time fish market and wandering the old part of town. Stayed at Albergo Lucy and liked its owner and its old-fashioned charm.

One November, we stayed in a Gargano town and drove all the way around the coast and around in the middle of the peninsula, but did not stop in Vieste (I forget why not). There were cool fishing huts perched out on the water, but we didn’t (maybe couldn’t?) drive down to any of the beaches. The interior is a nice old forest, but not the kind of thing we go to Italy to spend time in. Yeah, don’t go out of your way when it’s January.

I hope you'd write up a trip report --- we could be tempted to revisit Puglia and Naples but in January this time!

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6506 posts

Masseria Aprile in/near Locorotondo looks amazing. And is closed for my dates. Recommendations for anything similar in the area? Open to Martina Franca, Cisternino. Ceglie Messapica or ??