Southern Italy in December

Not sure why you are re-posting after deleting your original post that people took the time to answer when you are basically asking the same questions.

An understandable response, Rachele. I appreciate your reply and that of others to my original post. Here's why I reposted what is basically the same question.

This is my first day to use one of these forums. I was attempting to change my user name, because I felt it was too closely linked to something else I have elsewhere online, but in that attempt I accidentally deleted my original question. (That one appears to have vanished, but feel free to show me if you know where it is.) So, because I wanted to get input from other fine folks who have, like you been kind enough to respond, I attempted to recreate that post.

I hope that explanation makes sense to you. I thank you, Rachele, for your original input and for accepting what I freely admit was the result of a rookie mistake on my part. Best wishes to you.

Thanks for the update about your original post.

I responded to the first one mentioning that we spent a few days in Naples in early December a few years ago. We found Naples to be very interesting and worthwhile with particularly welcoming locals. It is a bit ‘gritty’ but its attributes more than make up for that. We never felt unsafe or uncomfortable. We hope to go back in the next couple of years to see more of the city.

Have read elsewhere that the Amalfi Coast can be very quiet in the winter although Sorrento may be okay.

Weather in December will be cooler, 58-44 so pack accordingly. There are markets, fireworks and other celebrations while you’ll be there.

I personally would start in Salerno 4-5 N. Visit Paestum, the Amalfi Coast and the city itself.

Bus to Sorrento, 4N visit Capri and some of the smaller villages on the Sorentine peninsula.

Circumvesuvian train to Naples 4-5 N. Caserta
Palace and Pozzuoli make good day trips.
Pompeii is closer to Naples, so Circumvesuvian to there. Then head to the Archeological Museum.

Naples has soo many attractions and churches, you could spend a month and not see it all.

Edit: while in Naples, you may want to look at the

https://www.campaniartecard.it/campania-7-days/?lang=en

7 day card is €34. 1st 5 admissions are free.
(Scroll down and click in this for all info on each blue site)

Suggest this order. These 5 sites alone would cost €62 w/o the arte card. Hope this helps.

Pompeii & Archeological Museum.

Capodimonte & Palazzo Reale

Reggia Caserta.

Thanks, Gerri. Quite helpful. Are there particular areas of Naples you'd recommend staying in, or avoiding?

This hotel is in the old city. Centrally located to most sites. Near 2 metro lines.

http://www.booking.com/Share-hFxQy0

Others prefer the hotels along the waterfront.

Naples has a unnecessarily bad reputation for the city being gritty and crime ridden (pickpockets).
What I have found in over 15 trips, that that’s not the case. It’s a beautiful, sometimes chaotic, city whose people are extremely friendly.

It’s much better than Chicago or New York or San Francisco.

I’ve added more info to my first post.

I always stay near the train station in Naples for the convenience, the last time being a couple of months ago, and after long days of activity it’s nice to be so close when you are tired at the end of the day. Plenty of good restaurants in the area as well.
Homelessness has increased in Naples, however, with people camping out in the vicinity of the station, which wasn’t a problem for us, but sad to see.
Naples is full of kind, friendly and honest people and is an exciting place to be and full of, as well as close to amazing sights.

We spent a week in Naples staying in the quieter Vomero neighborhood. There are good restaurants and several transportation options including the metro and several funiculars. We stayed in a lovely older apartment with 3 large bedrooms and 2 large bathrooms. Send me a pricate message if you would like the details.

Several years ago, in late November, we loved staying for a week in a rooftop apartment in the historic center about half a block north of the Spaccanapoli where Sorbillo's pizza is. This was (longish) walking distance to the train station, but close to everywhere else we wanted to go to, and an 8 minute walk to the archeology museum where we spent most of a day. When we return to Naples, we'd stay in this lively and convenient old neighborhood again. It did not seem chaotic or gritty or scary in any way, and was the opposite of "shut down."

Be sure to visit the presepi street with its incredible supplies for making nativity scenes --- we didn't buy a thing, but the displays are such fun.

Cappella Caraffa and other chapels in the Duomo

Caravaggio’s “The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula” and “The Seven Works of Mercy”

Museo Cappella Sansevero's marble sculpture of Christ under a sheet, plus other rather bizarre sculptures

Galleria Umberto vintage shopping mall

The Ospedale delle Bambole on Via San Biagio dei Librai was closed but looked cool.

The street food was great --- look for fried pizza.

Sorrento can be lovely, but not really “warm” unless you are from the Upper Midwest or central plains provinces of Canada. Seriously, we spent a week in Sorrento in mid-December one year and loved it. Pompeii not crowded. Buses on the Amalfi Coast not crowded. We did it totally without a car, BTW. Do bring a warm coat, gloves, hats, boots.

Locals told us it gets very busy there the week after Christmas so be sure to get your reservations made and expect crowds.

It is very nice to take the evening passeggiata in Sorrento with all the Christmas lights and decorations.

I was looking at Christmas-y places in Italy for this December (ended up with other destinations), but I remember that Salerno does some kind of special light show (electric lights in the street) and Naples is famous for its very elaborate nativity scenes on show in a few places year-round, and lots of vendors selling figurines. I very much enjoyed Naples in February. It's very convenient for Pompeii and Herculaneum, the National Archaeology Museum is a wow, and the RS Italy guide has a good self-guided walking tour that takes you past a number of interesting sights. I didn't find anything exceptional in Sorrento, though it's a pleasant place. I much preferred Salerno, with a well-preserved historic center. It's an easy day trip to Paestum by bus or train. Go on a sunny day. You should be able to organize a private driver for the day and stop at Tenuto Vannulo (buffalo farm) for fresh mozzarella, great canoli, and extremely yummy gelato. You can also get buses to the AC, again best on a sunny or at least partly sunny day. The best thing to do on the AC is enjoy the scenic views. The interesting museums are in Palermo.

I'd split the time between those two towns. I haven't done it, but you might like a day trip or possibly 1-2 nights on Ischia.

I recommend Salerno Centro B&B. It was recommended to me here and I've seen others rave about it since I was there as well. They only have 3 rooms, each with a private bath, and you feel like you're staying with family. Francesco will arrange that day trip to Paestum and anything else you need. His mom does a great breakfast. The location is excellent. The only thing I didn't like was leaving.

Do check what's open on Christmas eve and Christmas day so you can make plans for what to do and where to eat. Possibly also for Jan. 1.