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southern italy

My husband and I will be in southern Italy (the heel and toe) this coming Oct. I've read one should be a "seasoned traveler" and speak the language, and that it is not safe. I speak enough Italian to get by, we plan on driving, to Lecce and Calbria. What's the latest word about this area?? Any tips? what to avoid? what to not miss?
Thanks!!

Posted by
9110 posts

"Seasoned" only because the area is a bit off the beaten tourist path and sadly neglected. No alligators, no rattlesnakes, no bogeymen -- completely safe. Darn few tourists which makes it even safer and makes a bit of Italian really handy. Have at it! Nothing to worry about. Given my druthers, I'd weight the time toward Lecce more than Calbria.

Posted by
32212 posts

Tamara,

You might want to post this question on the Lonely Planet ThornTree message board as you'll probably get a wider range of replies. The regions of Lecce and Calabria are a bit "off the beaten path" for most tourists, so there's not as much personal experience with the group here.

You'll probably find that while you'll be able to manage with "standard" Italian, a lot of dialects are spoken in that part of Italy, so you may have a few occasions where you can't understand a single word. I can also "get by" with Italian but had that experience in Vieste on a past trip to Italy. Some "locals" nearby were speaking one of the dialects, and I was having a hard time even discerning the words.

I don't have any information on the "safety" aspect of travelling in that area. I know some people from Calabria, so I'll ask them next time I see them.

Happy travels!

Posted by
1449 posts

several guide books cover this area; you might want to go to your local bookstore and select one that you like, or pick one on Amazon.

Posted by
2876 posts

The heel and toe are fine but a little short on things to see (my own opinion). Why don't you consider taking the ferry over to Sicily and visiting Taormina? It's one of the most beautiful & interesting spots in Italy & English is no problemo.

Posted by
2 posts

We have been living in Naples for almost two years now and although I've visited Northern Italy (Tuscany is very disappointing), the South remains for me, very genuine and beautiful even though people use the public roads as garbage dumps. As for security, I never felt threatened in Lecce or in Puglia as a matter of fact but I've been told to beware in Bari and Brindisi. Same goes with Calabria. Don't let it stop you from going but wear your money belt at all times. People are poor in the South and tourists are usually an easy prey. English is not spoken here as much as in the North but people are friendly. You'll get by.

Posted by
35 posts

Tamara, my husband is from Calabria and we travel there several times a year. It is the most geniune Italy that you might ever experience - very few tourists, no tourist traps, friendly people, unbelievable food not to mention the beautiful beaches (4 beaches in Calabria have received the "Blue Flag" for cleanliness and safety). I've never felt the need to wear a money belt, never felt unsafe or threatened - we just always use good ole common sense. Everyone speaks pure Italian (except for maybe the older folks in the smallest towns) plus their own local dialect (just like in every other part of Italy) so you'll be just fine with the Italian that you know. We have found that more and more people are learning and speaking English - especially those in the bars, restaurants, hotels - and everyone who we meet who knows even just a few words in English can't wait to use those few words. Generally the signs in the airports, bus stations and train stations are in English as well as Italian - even the announcements on the trains - so traveling is really quite easy. With an open mind and a sense of adventure your visit to Calabria can be the most interesting and exciting leg of your trip! Go, enjoy and when you come back don't tell too many people - it's still a hidden treasure that might be better left a secret!

Posted by
3 posts

Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. Your comments have been very re-assuring.
Ciao, Tamara

Posted by
870 posts

I just wanted to add more reassurance for you. My parents have property in Pizzo, Calabria, so been to the area a couple of times. Do not speak much Italian, but was able to get by with pointing and pantomime. People seemed very kind to me and helpful. It is a beautiful and rugged area and lovely towns dot the coast. Based on our experience, you will need a car and need to drive a bit aggressively. We found a lot to do in Calabria, but a trip to Sicily is not a bad idea. The towns we frequented seemed to have lots of British and Germans on holiday, so they are not so unaccustomed to tourists.

Posted by
1018 posts

I go to Calabria every summer to visit my family and it is a safe tourist destination. Sometimes I travel there alone and always without incident. Almost no one speaks any English because it is so far off of the beaten path and any Italian you learn will be very helpful. The people are warm and friendly.

It is truly the land of the "mezzogiorno" because EVERYTHING closes from about noon until 3 or 3:30.

The beaches are nice, but most lack amenties. However, this is slowly changing. Tropea is a beautiful seaside resort and Reggio Calabria has a nice beach along with the Riacci Warriors in the state museum. The warriors are Greek bronze statues that were underwater for 1500 year, then restored.

The food of the region is good and substantial. My favorite pizzeria in the whole world is the "Il Gambero" in Falerna Marina right across the street from the ocean.

Buon viaggio,

RB

Posted by
362 posts

We spent a week down in Salento last September - it was great. We drove all over the "heel" - from Lecce southward. I felt safe the whole time, the people everywhere were great, the weather was amazing, the water was fantastic, etc. etc. The food is very different from region to region in Italy of course, and it was a nice break from our usual Tuscan fare - lots of seafood, vegetables, etc. I have some photos from the trip here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14894020@N00/sets/72157622374976442/